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My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

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  • Originally posted by r1lark View Post
    Topper, let us know how this paint does as far as spraying out and laying down smooth. I've considered ordering some paint from TCP Global to do small touch up areas (door jambs, etc) but wasn't sure how good the paint would actually be.
    I used the TCP Global Acrylic Enamel with hardener to spray my 74 Avanti a couple years back. It sprays very much like a quality paint and much better than the PPG Omni I used to color match my Truck Cap.

    I use a Sharpe Finex 3000 HVLP gun and it lays down a nice curtain. Quite run resistant and sanded and polished up to a nice finish.

    I've never used their Upol though.

    Bob

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    • I'm awful at this body work stuff. No wonder body shops hate any kind of restorations or seeing the days Fantomworks takes to do some cars. It's the redo work. I worked on the left side channel.

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      Even though I marked where I'm supposed to weld some tabs on, I forgot.


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      Left side is coming along ok. Looking like the fit is decent.

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      Right side is still looking good with the weatherstrip in place. The back panel needs to be relocated as it doesn't seal or meet the side channels at all.

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      • This was posted in my other forum.



        Studebaker trading cards! From Finland for buying kaffe.

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        • Ok, I had to take the rear panel off yet again. This time I had to cut all the tack welds I did and man, there were a lot! At least I painted it inside this time. So i can save the Eastwood Frame Encapsulator with the long reach tube for something else.

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          So after adjusting it for another gazillion times, I'm happier with it as now the lower corners meet where before they did not. I told you I was bad at this.

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          I still have a long way to go. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish tacking the two panels together as I have to trim the edge of the lip, it's holding the trunk lid up from latching.

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          • This panel definitely needs to be replaced on mine... what are the chances this pre made panel will be easier to use once I get to that stage? I have Hood Stiffeners that came with my car, that don’t look like the catalog pictures, so I’m guessing panels get updated and/or changed occasionally... (great job on your trunk area! I hope I can do as well once I can start welding)
            Proud new owner of a 56 Power Hawk!

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            • Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post
              I told you I was bad at this.
              Bad or not, that's up to you; I'd say you are doing very well. Also, I have to commend you on the undertaking of this extensive project. Personally I'd have started with something that needed less work sinse here in the west they are available. But, I do understand the need/want to push the envelope of ones capabilities (I've been very guilty of this myself). Keep it up Roland, you're doing quite well and have clearly expanded your skill set . Well done!
              sigpic

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              • Originally posted by Daan View Post
                This panel definitely needs to be replaced on mine... what are the chances this pre made panel will be easier to use once I get to that stage? I have Hood Stiffeners that came with my car, that don’t look like the catalog pictures, so I’m guessing panels get updated and/or changed occasionally... (great job on your trunk area! I hope I can do as well once I can start welding)
                The back panel does need reworking as all of them did. My suggestion is to start in the reverse order from what I did. The channels should have been replaced first, that way it would have locked in the positioning of the back panel. Also, measure the new one carefully, I believe it is shorter and not quite bent as crisply as the original causing off angles. Take MILLIONS (in my best Dr. Evil voice) of photos, as everyone suggests, of every detail. If it wasn't for Bensherb sending me photos of the trunk areas of his car, I wouldn't have realized I had some areas wrong. I didn't have pictures of the area I was working on and the photos really saved me time. As to the back panel, I should have cut it in the middle and added the necessary piece to make up the length. Good luck.

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                • Originally posted by bensherb View Post

                  Bad or not, that's up to you; I'd say you are doing very well. Also, I have to commend you on the undertaking of this extensive project. Personally I'd have started with something that needed less work sinse here in the west they are available. But, I do understand the need/want to push the envelope of ones capabilities (I've been very guilty of this myself). Keep it up Roland, you're doing quite well and have clearly expanded your skill set . Well done!
                  Thanks Rick. Your pictures of the trunk areas were a big help.

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                  • Thank you for keeping this journal of your efforts. I am restoring a 63 GT with almost the identical issues that you have and I have found your pictures and comments very helpful in comparing methods and results. In the trunk area, I cut the top weather channel at the bend to the channel and then made cuts to shape it to match the curvature. I mig welded the cuts after butt welding the seam. For the side channels, I cut strips and welded new bottoms and made a few weld patches where the flange was bad. For the bottom or back panel, I ended up cutting it down the middle and trimming it at the center to fit before welding it back in place. I also found much rust in the wheel wells and made small patch panels to fit. I also replace the floors and trunk pans. Keep up the good work.

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                    • Thanks Tom. I contacted Classic about the curve in the top channel and they will modify the future production to resemble the original one closer. He told me he didn't know there was a problem until someone contacts them about. Very easy to deal with and made it right. Good thing my original one is good enough to reuse, it looks like a bear to replace. I too had thought of making my own channels, but I had holes all the way up to the 90 degree bend where the tops of the fenders were. Jerry, on this forum, recommended I weld the inside first and then the outside, so during grinding, all the openings would be covered. I agree, it makes sense.

                      This project can get overwhelming at times and I am trying to remember that I can lift 1,000lbs, 10lbs. at a time. I have run out of MIG wire, not surprising with how many redo's, but it was only a 2lb. roll. I thought I had another one, but it was .030. Just ordered some on eBay so I don't have to go out and get it. So today will be prepping the hard to reach areas for primer and paint.
                      Last edited by Topper2011; 07-22-2020, 08:51 AM.

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                      • Topper, I have been following and enjoying your commitment to your build. It is indeed inspiring to all, of all skill levels. You have shared success and failure along the way but when you shared your mig wire consumption, I just had to comment. I too took on a rusty project ( a 60 Lark Convert from New Jersey) . I put 10 lbs of mig wire into the hog troughs before putting the floors back in. It is indeed challenging but rewarding. I am driving and enjoying mine. Hope to see yours in person some day.
                        Bob
                        They were meant to be driven , so keep on cruisin
                        Bob
                        Welland Ontario
                        60 Lark Convertible
                        64 Daytona
                        sigpic
                        "They were meant to be driven ... so keep on cruizin"

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                        • Originally posted by pinehurstbob View Post
                          Topper, I have been following and enjoying your commitment to your build. It is indeed inspiring to all, of all skill levels. You have shared success and failure along the way but when you shared your mig wire consumption, I just had to comment. I too took on a rusty project ( a 60 Lark Convert from New Jersey) . I put 10 lbs of mig wire into the hog troughs before putting the floors back in. It is indeed challenging but rewarding. I am driving and enjoying mine. Hope to see yours in person some day.
                          Bob
                          They were meant to be driven , so keep on cruisin
                          Thanks Bob, I am glad others have taken unloved, neglected and abandoned cars and brought them back to life. I do plan on driving this car as much as possible, or until my bad welds fail, maybe even to Ontario. I do have to have another picture of Niagra Falls, sans barge this time.

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                          • When you come, do let me know, We live just a few miles from Niagara Falls and would love to cruise the area with you. That is after the Covid thing is over and the border is open again.
                            Bob
                            Bob
                            Welland Ontario
                            60 Lark Convertible
                            64 Daytona
                            sigpic
                            "They were meant to be driven ... so keep on cruizin"

                            Comment


                            • Not a lot of work done, but progressing slowly.

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                              This stud was stripped and replacing it would require me to cut out the section of panel and fab one up with the weld bolt in place. Too much work, so I just welded some slag onto the threads and rethreaded it.

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                              I may have to add a bit more as I ground off a little too much of the excess.

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                              • Today, I worked on the pieces I stupidly cut out trying to fit the outer panel in place.

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