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My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

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  • Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post
    The inside looks a little better. Still, I'll seam seal both sides.

    Time for late lunch/early dinner.
    Glad you finally went to gas. A couple thoughts: I usually run a bit hotter than the number on the chart and try to keep a small gap between the metal sheets. Usually just enough to see light although most welders I know suggest the width of the wire or slightly less.

    If you find there are thin spots you blow through, you can beat a piece of copper pipe flat, or the curve of the panel, and hold it behind the area when welding. It helps adsorb some heat and gives structure to back the hole. You may get some sticking to the copper if you run really hot but it really helps fill open areas.

    Keep up the posting, appreciate all you are doing.

    Bob

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    • Originally posted by Daan View Post
      Rather than “like”-ing every post on here I’ll just say that it’s been fun following your thread. I’m just getting started on mine, so it’s cool seeing what you’re doing with your project.
      Thanks you. Good luck on your project, I am following it closely as I've been through everything you are going through and wondering if I could have been more "efficient".
      Last edited by Topper2011; 05-08-2020, 12:21 PM.

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      • Originally posted by bensherb View Post
        Hey Roland, you mentioned the CJMC, As you probably guessed, the "small bike scramble" from Livermore this weekend is canceled. I may do it on my own, if the foam for my seat arrives in time, otherwise it might be the next weekend.

        Anyway, the wire you got is perfect. If you've only used innershield in the past you'll love mig. I've run .023 ER-70s in my little machine (125 amp) for this type of stuff for decades. I just welded together the paper thin seat pan for my new build, 1970 CT70H, with it and it's great. If my machine had conventional numbers on it I could tell you where to set it but it has letters. If you run CO2 it'll be cooler and easier on thin material, Ar-CO2 if you need hotter for thicker stuff and Ar-He for thick or aluminum.
        Yes, due to the shelter in place, they decided it would be prudent to not have a gathering, plus "The Junction" is closed. Maybe September at Mt. Hamilton small bike ride?

        I like the lack of splatter after dealing with flux wire. I am definitely not blowing holes in the sheet metal like I was with the flux. I'm using an argon/CO2 mix, I forget the ratio though. Small tank and not sure how long it will last.

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        • Originally posted by sweetolbob View Post

          Glad you finally went to gas. A couple thoughts: I usually run a bit hotter than the number on the chart and try to keep a small gap between the metal sheets. Usually just enough to see light although most welders I know suggest the width of the wire or slightly less.

          If you find there are thin spots you blow through, you can beat a piece of copper pipe flat, or the curve of the panel, and hold it behind the area when welding. It helps adsorb some heat and gives structure to back the hole. You may get some sticking to the copper if you run really hot but it really helps fill open areas.

          Keep up the posting, appreciate all you are doing.

          Bob
          Bob, that's a good idea with the pipe. I've heard there is a magnetic type copper spoon that frees you hands up. I will check them out.

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          • Ar-CO2 is usually 75/25% , not usually needed with typical .036" thick auto bodywork. It's hard not to get at least 90% penetration. I have a 2"x 5" x 1/4" piece of copper plate I back up panels with if the fit up is "loose".

            I think the later CJMC small bike ride usually starts in San Jose. I've done it before, but on a different bike. It adds 50 miles to my ride, and with a .62 gallon fuel tank, that becomes difficult. Starting from Livermore and back it's an 85 mile trip; 1 gallon, so I only have to carry 1/2 gallon. San Jose also means starting 1 1/2 hours earlier.
            Last edited by bensherb; 05-09-2020, 02:08 AM.
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            • Between weed whacking the yard with my uncooperative trimmer and trying to do some metal work on the Hawk, I'm a busy guy.

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              The pre-made trunk panel has a center punch already for the indentation. I have to drill this out to get the corner brace in.

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              I'll be cutting the rotten center support floor out.

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                New metal!

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                • I'm not going to install the floor just yet. I have pretty good access to the rust in the trunk area without laying on the trunk floor on my back. This way I can sit on my work stool and treat the rust. I'll also be able to access the center weatherstrip support, but not sure how I can get this to fit right.

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                  This panel is all kinds of wrong. Steep arch in the middle, not enough towards the ends and it's also bowed with both ends going forwards as well. I think I need to get a shrinker/stretcher to straighten it. I've sent an email to the manufacturer as well.

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                  • My weatherstrip channels are all rotten, too... I was hoping the replacement pieces weren’t completely straight, but it looks like what they sent you isn’t any harder to fit than a straight one would be...
                    Proud new owner of a 56 Power Hawk!

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                    • I just want to take a minute to appreciate your drill press. That beast looks awesome.

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                      • Originally posted by Daan View Post
                        My weatherstrip channels are all rotten, too... I was hoping the replacement pieces weren’t completely straight, but it looks like what they sent you isn’t any harder to fit than a straight one would be...
                        I was hoping for better, but the video I posted of a pro shop working on their Studebaker and complaining about the panel pieces they got. They actually sent the weatherstrip channels back. I don't have the skill to even get close to what I have. So I think I may have to live with it and do some fillet cuts to get the curve I need. It's something I've never done, so wish me luck.

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                        • Originally posted by creegster View Post
                          I just want to take a minute to appreciate your drill press. That beast looks awesome.
                          Thanks, I couldn't resist getting it from a friend that was closing his machine shop down.

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                          • Worked on the corner brace today.

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                            Right side tab doesn't reach the wall it's supposed to tack weld to.

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                            I had to "modify" it's angle.

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                            It reaches now.

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                            • You know, if one could make an investment in rust, I'd be a rich man. There's no shortage here.

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                              Left rear wheel housing.

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                              Right rear wheel housing. OK, so this has gotten more challenging. I don't think I have the will power or skill to address all the rust, as there are a lot of double walls in this car. I'm going to Por-15 it as best as I can. No way am I going to open panels up to get at the rust I know is lurking up in the sail panels or between the rear window and trunk opening panel. I think Eastwood sells an encapsulator that has a long straw to get in between panels. I'd rather spend time driving the car than fixing the rust.

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                              • https://youtu.be/QmwjA-2E_b8
                                its a video of a guy who tested out a bunch of different Rust products. I was gonna try one of these on my Hawk... NOT the POR, though-I jumped through all the hoops you need to do for POR on a different vehicle, and pretty much everywhere I used it, it either flakes off, or the rust bubbled up through the POR... (and yes, I did it all exactly how the directions said)
                                Im not a fan of the POR stuff!
                                Proud new owner of a 56 Power Hawk!

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