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My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

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  • If I was going to make a bead in a flat piece of metal I think I would rout the shape into a piece of hardwood and use the T dolly to work it in. With patience it should work.
    "In the heart of Arkansas."
    Searcy, Arkansas
    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
    1952 2R pickup

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    • Originally posted by 52-fan View Post
      If I was going to make a bead in a flat piece of metal I think I would rout the shape into a piece of hardwood and use the T dolly to work it in. With patience it should work.
      I'm probably going to do that with the right side floor pan. I'm going to lay the left side I already made on top of the T dolly and use my cheapo body hammers to straighten out the beads I pounded in. It works out great in my head.

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      • I belong to the CJMC, a classic motorcycle club. One of our members drives a Studebaker pickup of which I've posted here and folks have probably seen. He's featured in an article on the 24th page of the link. Enjoy!

        https://www.ahrma.org/ahrma-mag-apri...-2-issue-no-3/

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        • [QUOTE=Topper2011;n1834074]I belong to the CJMC, a classic motorcycle club. One of our members drives a Studebaker pickup of which I've posted here and folks have probably seen. He's featured in an article on the 24th page of the link. Enjoy!QUOTE]

          Very sharp truck. Of course, I would have to say that because if mine had a factory style rear bumper and hub caps it would be like it.
          "In the heart of Arkansas."
          Searcy, Arkansas
          1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
          1952 2R pickup

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          • Not only am I a bad welder, I'm even worse at body work.

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            There's a whole lot of metal missing here.

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            Clecos to the rescue. Actually, it's the first time I've ever had a use for these.

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            From underneath, marking what goes.

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            Driver's side sits pretty close.

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            Passenger side stills needs some tweaking. Going to call it a day.
            Last edited by Topper2011; 05-06-2020, 02:15 PM.

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            • Click image for larger version

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              I bought some weld through primer, wondering if I should do all the edges and epoxy prime the rest. I probably won't have any access to the panels once they are in place.

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              • Did the Clecos work well? I usually use the 'Redneck Clecos' - self-drilling sheet metal screws.
                Paul
                Winston-Salem, NC
                Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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                • Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post
                  Not only am I a bad welder, I'm even worse at body work.
                  Yeah, but...it is a lot more fun to do your own bad welding and bodywork than paying some other bad welder and bodyworker to do the bad welding and bodywork.

                  In my career of providing tooling to welders and bodyworkers...I really found very few really good ones. The ones that were really good, were mainly unaffordable and if you were over thirty years old...you would never live long enough to see them finish your vehicle.

                  So...that's when I began acquiring my own tools, reading a lot, and picking the brains of those who were good. My work is not perfect, but I had a blast doing it. I got it done on my own terms, and have zero broken relationships, resentment, and hard feelings. The key to my success is that it exceeds all expectations that my family and friends had of my capabilities. I also take silent comfort in knowing it also exceeded any of their capabilities.

                  John Clary
                  Greer, SC

                  SDC member since 1975

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                  • Originally posted by r1lark View Post
                    Did the Clecos work well? I usually use the 'Redneck Clecos' - self-drilling sheet metal screws.
                    Once you drill a hole, they work great for taking the panels off and on. I've thought about using the sheet metal screws as they used them in "Graveyard Cars" putting in a floor pan on a Road Runner. I was thinking I was saving a step not having to drill two different size holes to prevent binding up on running in the screws. I got the Clecos really cheap as someone at work got them from someone else and my coworker didn't know what they were for. When I told him, he said he would never need them and sold them to me for $20. What's really cool is they have the wing nut type that can draw in the sheet metal as well as various different sizes.

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                    • Originally posted by jclary View Post

                      Yeah, but...it is a lot more fun to do your own bad welding and bodywork than paying some other bad welder and bodyworker to do the bad welding and bodywork.

                      In my career of providing tooling to welders and bodyworkers...I really found very few really good ones. The ones that were really good, were mainly unaffordable and if you were over thirty years old...you would never live long enough to see them finish your vehicle.

                      So...that's when I began acquiring my own tools, reading a lot, and picking the brains of those who were good. My work is not perfect, but I had a blast doing it. I got it done on my own terms, and have zero broken relationships, resentment, and hard feelings. The key to my success is that it exceeds all expectations that my family and friends had of my capabilities. I also take silent comfort in knowing it also exceeded any of their capabilities.
                      That's exactly how I feel. I like tools and problem solving in weird, different (mostly wrong) ways. As we all know, this car is pretty far gone, I bought it relatively cheap and I wanted to learn different skills. I'm having fun and being that I'm near retirement, my wife isn't afraid my brain will turn to mush. Too late I'm thinking.

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                      • Wanted to set the welder up for solid core and down to .023 to do the trunk inner panels. This will be the first time I've switched to gas.

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                        Changed the polarity


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                        Hope I'm using the right wire.

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                        Blew out the gas valve with a quick shot of gas.

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                        As Judge Judy would say, "Now, we're cooking with gas!"

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                        • Test welding at recommended settings for 18ga.

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                          Time to get some work done.

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                          My Hawk is getting smaller and smaller.

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                          I had to add this flange that supports the trunk floor.

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                          This took a good part of the day doing, but it's pretty decent. Took about an hour chasing all the little pin holes.

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                          • The inside looks a little better. Still, I'll seam seal both sides.

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                            Time for late lunch/early dinner.

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                            • Rather than “like”-ing every post on here I’ll just say that it’s been fun following your thread. I’m just getting started on mine, so it’s cool seeing what you’re doing with your project.
                              Proud new owner of a 56 Power Hawk!

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                              • Hey Roland, you mentioned the CJMC, As you probably guessed, the "small bike scramble" from Livermore this weekend is canceled. I may do it on my own, if the foam for my seat arrives in time, otherwise it might be the next weekend.

                                Anyway, the wire you got is perfect. If you've only used innershield in the past you'll love mig. I've run .023 ER-70s in my little machine (125 amp) for this type of stuff for decades. I just welded together the paper thin seat pan for my new build, 1970 CT70H, with it and it's great. If my machine had conventional numbers on it I could tell you where to set it but it has letters. If you run CO2 it'll be cooler and easier on thin material, Ar-CO2 if you need hotter for thicker stuff and Ar-He for thick or aluminum.
                                sigpic

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