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My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

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  • Amazing how long some jobs take without accomplishing much.

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    New bushings for the sway bar.

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    Pressing bushing in.

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    It took three hours to get it placed with the bushings seeming to be twice as large and hard as rocks to fit into the holders. I also realized I did not get new bolts for this job.

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      • Congratulation Topper IT'S ALIVE, wow what a video. I was trying to take it all in , watching the gauges listing to the engine, brakes, steering, gearbox, exhaust, road noise and any and everything else, way more exciting than when I took my 62 for it's first test drive, absolutely insane , well done. Cheers Harryhawk
        Last edited by Harryhawk; 10-05-2019, 10:57 PM.

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        • Thanks Harry! The engine does seem to have a bit of a tick/knock, but did seem to quiet down a bit towards the end of my drive. I also was concerned with lack of oil getting to the valve train after I was checking the low compression. It seemed fairly dry after it had run a bit earlier. I didn't replace the valve cover gasket and upon return from my drive, oil was leaking, but I took that as a good sign it's getting oil now.

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          Back in where I can get to the trunk and try to replace the truck pan.

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          • Backed it out to wash it down since I was washing the cars anyway.

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            I like the stance it has with the new front springs. Kudos to those that have recommended the Moog springs.

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            I have lots of wire work to do as nothing works electrically.

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            • This morning I worked on the Transit Connect and glad I got the Rhino Ramps. I don't worry about crushing any underbody parts with my jack and it makes a messy job really easy. Also had to fix a water leak in some plumbing. I did finally get to the Hawk and worked on the valve adjustment.

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              Hope my wife doesn't miss a few clothes pins. I chose the worst ones anyway.

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              Passenger side went well, driver's side, not so much. Hope I found the engine noise.

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              • The replacement ignition switch has been bugging me in it's fit.

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                It spins when you turn the key. Seems it needs a woodruff key to fit in the slot and a flat spot to hold it in place.

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                This is the old Willys switch and it fits pretty well in the Hawk, unfortunately it's bad.

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                Looks like this pin needs to be removed in order to see what's wrong with the switch. I'm sure it's just worn out. I also can't find the key to it anyway.

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                I may use this old motorcycle lock washer and use the tabs to lock in the new switch, no harm or cost in trying.

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                • I had a bent push rod like that from valve float (I think). Hope that is your only problem.

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                  • Originally posted by 70Avanti2 View Post
                    I had a bent push rod like that from valve float (I think). Hope that is your only problem.
                    Amen to that.

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                    • Well, I decided to replace the points and condenser since the engine wasn't running smoothly and the idle was stuck around 1200 rpms.

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                      Well lookee here! I filed the points and added a dab of die-electric grease to the cam. Adjusted them to 0.22 and checked the timing and it was way advanced. I brought it to approximately 10 degrees. Engine smoothed out fairly well and I was able to drop the engine speed down to 760 rpms. Exhaust pipe on the left was strong and exhaust was hot. Left side seemed weak and cooler. The heater valve doesn't seem to be opening and manually opening resulted in the exhaust was naturally stronger. I think I will be pulling out the heat riser and put in a spacer.

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                      • I see a Dual Point Dizzy!
                        so I sent back and checked. You've got a Twin Traction setup as well.....

                        What's your engine serial#?
                        You sure you're not sitting on a Super Hawk? R2, etc.?
                        Maybe I missed it in the discussion. it's only 28 pages now.

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                        • Over the past few days I have perused this thread. In documenting your work on your Stude, you are also documenting a high mechanical aptitude, admirable energy and sticktuitiveness, and a knack for adapting and overcoming adversity through, "Yankee ingenuity". In leaving no stone unturned on your car, looks like there isn't much you will not tackle and figure a way to fix. Keep up the good work, and I am sure you will be on the road someday soon. You will also know your car, inside and out. Should a problem ever occur on the road, in your mind you will probably already have it diagnosed before even getting pulled over. Meanwhile, you are building a strong advertisement, should you ever decide to go into the Studebaker mechanical repair business. Many Stude owners need mechanical repair service, and have no where to go. I believe anyone who lives a reasonable distance from you, would be happy to have you work on their Stude.

                          Despite the above, obviously you are a very busy guy, and have no time to work on others' Studes. I am just saying, if you ever decided to open a Stude repair facility, this thread could be your best advertisement.

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                          • Looking GOOD; and your 3 point turn kinda reminds me of that Ferrari footage from a couple of weeks ago!

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                            • Originally posted by Mrs K Corbin View Post
                              I see a Dual Point Dizzy!
                              so I sent back and checked. You've got a Twin Traction setup as well.....

                              What's your engine serial#?
                              You sure you're not sitting on a Super Hawk? R2, etc.?
                              Maybe I missed it in the discussion. it's only 28 pages now.
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                              I don't believe it's an R2, iirc I have the build sheet and don't remember seeing that option.

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                              • Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                                Over the past few days I have perused this thread. In documenting your work on your Stude, you are also documenting a high mechanical aptitude, admirable energy and sticktuitiveness, and a knack for adapting and overcoming adversity through, "Yankee ingenuity". In leaving no stone unturned on your car, looks like there isn't much you will not tackle and figure a way to fix. Keep up the good work, and I am sure you will be on the road someday soon. You will also know your car, inside and out. Should a problem ever occur on the road, in your mind you will probably already have it diagnosed before even getting pulled over. Meanwhile, you are building a strong advertisement, should you ever decide to go into the Studebaker mechanical repair business. Many Stude owners need mechanical repair service, and have no where to go. I believe anyone who lives a reasonable distance from you, would be happy to have you work on their Stude.

                                Despite the above, obviously you are a very busy guy, and have no time to work on others' Studes. I am just saying, if you ever decided to open a Stude repair facility, this thread could be your best advertisement.
                                Thank you Joe, but I definitely not experienced enough to work on anyone's Studebaker, let alone mine. Wait until you see me attempt bodywork.

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