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My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

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  • I finally found all the needle bearing and installed the right side king pin.

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    Hoping to install the disc brake kit on this side tomorrow.

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    • The Turner kit is in on the right side, just waiting for the new hoses to complete.

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      • Sir Topper - I recommend you get a gallon jug (or two) of metal prep and etch, available at Home Depot or Lowe's, maybe both, and also buy an empty spray bottle. Fill that bottle and spray the rust as you go. Might not kill it all, but like chicken soup for a dead man; it couldn't hurt. (huh?) Here's a similar product: https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Metal-Prep Rust is the enemy!

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        • Originally posted by tomnoller View Post
          Sir Topper - I recommend you get a gallon jug (or two) of metal prep and etch, available at Home Depot or Lowe's, maybe both, and also buy an empty spray bottle. Fill that bottle and spray the rust as you go. Might not kill it all, but like chicken soup for a dead man; it couldn't hurt. (huh?) Here's a similar product: https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Metal-Prep Rust is the enemy!
          It would probably take a vat of the stuff for this car, but sooner or later, I'll get to it.

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          • Slow progress this weekend. I did work on a couple of the bikes. The starter on "The Mighty Tempter" is oil fouled and I took it apart for cleaning, one of the brushes was worn more than the other. I am ordering new brushes as I'm exhausted from push starting the bike. I miss kick starters. Replaced the rear tire on the little TS100 so I can get it ready for our small bike ride up Mt. Hamilton in a couple weeks. Last year I got a flat tire 4 miles away from lunch, the new tire and tube should be good.

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            • I wanted to mount the seat I got for free so long ago. Just messing around with the mounts on the left and right seats I was able to cobble the correct combination to mount the seat using the original left front mounting hole that also is supported by the frame and the left rear seat belt mounting hole.

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              I only had to drill three holes total to get the seat where I needed it.

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              I moved this stud into the new hole for the mounting foot.

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              This foot came from the rear of the passenger seat and matches perfectly to the seat belt hole on the left rear. Reasonable to believe the one I removed from this side can go on the passenger side to match up.

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              Original front mounting hole and rear seat belt hole.

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              I only had to drill two holes on this side to mount the seat and one in the rail to shift a footing and it's pretty much in. I do want to reinforce this side with some extra plate steel. But I think it really worked out well for very little investment in time and money. I plan on having these seats reupholstered in the original material and save these covers for my actual daily driver as they are the same seats.
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              • The brake hoses came today and went ahead and installed them.

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                Both sides are in, but having issues bleeding. I am thinking the residual valves may have something to do with it. I am depressing the brake pedal and the fluid is rushing back into the master enough to have a geyser! I am thinking of removing them as the fronts are locking up and I'm thinking the valve isn't releasing the fluid to retract the pads. The rears all seem to be locked up. Once the geyser stops, the rotors can rotate once again.

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                • I mounted the rear of the seat mount/track to a hinge and bolted it to the floor. That way I just remove the two front bolts and tip the seat back against the rear seat to make way more room to get under the dash to work. It's easier than totally removing, finding somewhere to put it, then reinstalling the seat every time I need to work under the dash.

                  Also, I've put together many auto brake systems from scratch and have never used a residual pressure valve for any disk brake. Drums yes, but not disks, whether only in front or all four. It works for me.
                  sigpic

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                  • Originally posted by bensherb View Post
                    I mounted the rear of the seat mount/track to a hinge and bolted it to the floor. That way I just remove the two front bolts and tip the seat back against the rear seat to make way more room to get under the dash to work. It's easier than totally removing, finding somewhere to put it, then reinstalling the seat every time I need to work under the dash.

                    Also, I've put together many auto brake systems from scratch and have never used a residual pressure valve for any disk brake. Drums yes, but not disks, whether only in front or all four. It works for me.
                    I'm going to try a few things and may end up removing the valves. My Willys also didn't need the valves and it had drums all around with a dual master.

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                    • you're right, residual valve for disk brakes has a tendency to make them drag.

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                      • No Studebaker work. I did replace the crappy taillamps on the cheapo Harbor Freight trailer.

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                        They are mounted so low, they end up hitting things while I'm moving the trailer around to mount onto the hitch.

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                        This is the same scrap aluminum I picked up and used for my proportioning valve.

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                        • I needed the trailer for my club ride today up Mt. Hamilton. Yep, the same one as last year when I got a flat tire.


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                          Made it the 80+ miles over the highest point in south bay and over to "The Junction" for lunch and back on a 100cc bike. Tiring, but fun!

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                          • Sunday, it was breakfast and the Corvette Show!

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                            Sadly, the new 2020 mid engine didn't make a showing, something about a strike or something.

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                            • I spent a lot of time at the show as a good friend of mine joined us. By the time I got home, I could only put a little time in the Hawk. With my wife helping to bleed the brakes, I was able to finally get a good pedal and the brakes no longer hang up.

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                              I put the front wheels on to get ready to load the front end and secure the control arms since the car needs to be on the ground.
                              Last edited by Topper2011; 09-22-2019, 07:30 PM.

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                              • Work really gets in the way of working on the Hawk. I did put all the wheels on and loaded the front end to secure the control arm bolts.

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                                Putting the front end on ramps allowed me to have the front weighted and to check out the ride height with the new springs.

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                                Looks like a pretty good height.

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