My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

[Topper2011]

Well, I believe the vendor realized how far off his pattern is and is sending me a new header pipe. Hopefully, no other issues with the exhaust.



My control arm bushings came and now I'm looking at a big job. Wondering if I should replace the front springs while I'm at it. Isn't MOOG no longer making the springs I need? I recall seeing a few threads on front springs.

[Harryhawk]

Hi Topper, there is a easier way of dismantling the front end to replace bushings than what is shown in the workshop manual, if you know of it well and good if not I or some of the other guys could give a brief explanation. Enjoying your post. Cheers Harryhawk

[Topper2011]

Hi Topper, there is a easier way of dismantling the front end to replace bushings than what is shown in the workshop manual, if you know of it well and good if not I or some of the other guys could give a brief explanation. Enjoying your post. Cheers Harryhawk

Hi Harry. If you or anyone has a better and safer way to replace these, I would be appreciate any help in this. Thanks.

[pinehurstbob]

I have done bushings on 3 different cars and start by removing the shock, and then insert a spring compresser on the coil spring to keep it compressed. You can then remove the bolts holding the control arm to the frame. You then can remove the spring safely, Upper control arm bolts can then be removed. To reinstall I find its best to band the springs. My spring compressor never seems to line up in there for reassembly and banding is much safer than trying to "adjust" the spring compressor in that confined space. Best to keep all your fingers. Good luck.
Bob

[Harryhawk]

Hi Topper, like Bob I've done front end bushings 3 times 2 x 62 Larks and 1 x 62 GT so here's my take on it. Follow the workshop manual up until it says remove upper control arm what I do is loosen the large castlelated nut at the bottom of the Steering knuckle/King Pin enough so when you strike the nut with a hammer driving it upwards it will seperate you will see and hear the separation, completely remove nut and lift King Pin up and out of the way then slowly lower the bottom control arm and spring with the trolley jack, spring should stay in the tunnel and on the lip of the control arm, for safety you should use a chain fed through the upper control arm and spring secured together with a D shackle. Springs and upper control arm shafts must go back in the same position they came out, the shafts are off set and springs lean towards the engine. Assembly is the reverse. I'd check the outer threaded bushes too they wear if not regularly greased. Cheers Harryhawk P.S Make sure you get the car high enough to let the bottom control arm completely drop.

[Topper2011]

Thanks guys, good advice.

[Topper2011]

Gang, this was pretty involved. I started by renting a spring compressor from O'Reilly's.



Lot's of work and it's out.





The scoring isn't bad. I cannot catch my finger nail on it.



Left side is out. I think I'll work on the right side tomorrow as I've got to wax the wife's car. I think I did it last 3 years ago. I have the compressor for another full day anyway.

[Topper2011]

I topped off the coolant and pressure tested it.



Seems to be holding at this point. But my luck didn't hold out and there still was a leak behind the water pump. I recently saw a Youtube video with Jonathan working on his Hawk and him showing that there is a freeze plug behind the water pump mount. I believe this is where I have a small leak. It makes sense that a deteriorated freeze plug is the cause by the slow drip. Guess it comes apart to be sure. I'll work on it next weekend.

[Harryhawk]

Hi Topper, it's a tough and as you said an involved job so well done. Just a question, why not complete the job on this side while you have the spring compressed, is their enough thread on the tool to uncoil it? Cheers Harry

[r1lark]

But my luck didn't hold out and there still was a leak behind the water pump. I recently saw a Youtube video with Jonathan working on his Hawk and him showing that there is a freeze plug behind the water pump mount. I believe this is where I have a small leak.

Topper, wasn't that the '56 Golden Hawk that Jonathan was working on, that had the freeze plug behind the water pump? That's a Packard V8, but I'm thinking you have a Stude V8 in your car, right? If so, there isn't a freeze plug behind the water pump. Maybe one of the water manifold gaskets, or maybe you are getting some dripping out the water pump weep hole?

[Topper2011]

Hi Topper, it's a tough and as you said an involved job so well done. Just a question, why not complete the job on this side while you have the spring compressed, is their enough thread on the tool to uncoil it? Cheers Harry

Hi Harry. I can rent for free for 48 hours, so no hurry. My plan is to use it tomorrow to take the right side apart, then return the tool and slowly clean, inspect, replace needed parts, and paint them. I can then rent it again for the install.

[Topper2011]

Topper, wasn't that the '56 Golden Hawk that Jonathan was working on, that had the freeze plug behind the water pump? That's a Packard V8, but I'm thinking you have a Stude V8 in your car, right? If so, there isn't a freeze plug behind the water pump. Maybe one of the water manifold gaskets, or maybe you are getting some dripping out the water pump weep hole?

Paul, that's right. I forgot about that. I'll have to check my parts book to see if I missed anything behind the pump.

[Topper2011]

Anyone recommend the best place to get the MOOG front springs for my Hawk? I may as well change these 57 year old springs since I have it apart.

[Topper2011]

Feeling lazy and beat up today. I did take off the right side control arms.



Good thing I decided to start this process as I found this....



Upper control arm bolt missing.



I'm scheduling 4th of July to clean and paint these parts.



I did find the seepage. It was the 4 bolts for the water pump seeping around the gaskets. I cinched them down with my calibrated arms to the proper torque: tight enough to stop the leak, but not enough to break the bolts. Pressure held at 16lbs. for over an hour. I think we're good.

[rkapteyn]

Gang, this was pretty involved. I started by renting a spring compressor from O'Reilly's.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]82120[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]82121[/ATTACH]

Lot's of work and it's out.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]82122[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]82123[/ATTACH]

The scoring isn't bad. I cannot catch my finger nail on it.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]82124[/ATTACH]

Left side is out. I think I'll work on the right side tomorrow as I've got to wax the wife's car. I think I did it last 3 years ago. I have the compressor for another full day anyway.

Instead of renting a spring compressor , remove the shock absorber and replace it with a length of "All Tread" from you local hardware store.
Get some heavy large washers , hex nuts and a short piece of angle iron and drill a hole in it to fit the threaded rod.
Make sure you use some high pressure grease on the threads where you move the nut to decompress the spring.

An other way is to take two bolts out of the lower control arm where it bolts to the cross member on each side and replace these bolts will well greased "All thread" with washers,run the nuts up to where they contact the cross member and take out the other bolts and lower the lower control arm to decompress the spring after removing the shocks first.
Take the spring out and unbolt the upper control arm and remove the whole assembly to work on it.
I also should note that the upper control arm shaft has holes that are not in the center and is reversible to increase the camber.
So make sure you mark the upper control arm shaft to make sure it goes back the same way otherwise your alignment will be way off.
The bolts that hold the upper "A" arms on are special shoulder bolts that are hard to find so treat them carefully. If you really need some PM me.
On some of the earlier cars there was a problem with these bolts working loose because the shaft had irregular bolting surfaces and did tighten on some of the high spots and the high spots wore off quickly and left the shaft loose.
Before you bolt it up again make sure to grind the high spot if you have an older shaft.
If your outer bushing are fine , leave them alone especially the upper ones.
To replace the rubber inner bushings you don't have to disturbed the outer "A" arm bushings or even remove the kingpins. The be able to take the whole assembly off you may want to remove the brake drums to reduce the weight.
While you have the whole assembly off you may want to replace the cork gasket on the lower end of the king pin or replace it with a Buna N "O" ring.
These lower kingpin gaskets are usually shot and when you grease the king pins the grease will go out the bottom of the king pin and no grease goes up to lubricate the trust bearings and upper bushings.
Robert Kapteyn