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My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

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  • I have to look into why the parking brake handle won't lock.

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    The tension spring is broken and I have to figure out how I'm going to fix it.

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    • That ratchet spring is a bear to get in place, it might just not be in correctly. Also if the pin is missing from the inner shaft, it can be rolled over
      180 degrees and the ratchet teeth will not be there to catch.
      sigpic

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      • Originally posted by bensherb View Post
        That ratchet spring is a bear to get in place, it might just not be in correctly. Also if the pin is missing from the inner shaft, it can be rolled over
        180 degrees and the ratchet teeth will not be there to catch.

        I looked closely at it and one end is broken. I'm going to the hardware store to see if I can get a compression spring and attach it to the handle bracket with a rivet. Hopefully it comes out as well as it is in my head.

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        Looks like the grease seal was leaking.

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        Getting ready for the Turner disc brake kit.

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        • I'm not sure who designed this heater setup, but he must have gotten pleasure in watching people struggle reinstalling them.

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          It was a fiddly job, but it's in. Only took 2 1/2 hours to install this. I called it a day.

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          • Hi gang. Wondering if anyone recognizes this little bracket. I painted it many moons ago and for the life of me, can't remember where it came from.

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            • Its the 'offset' bracket for the rear brake hose, where the hose attaches to the frame. There should be a bolt with a couple of large OD washers. Can't remember if it was only used on dual exhaust cars, but a look in the parts manual will tell you.
              Paul
              Winston-Salem, NC
              Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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              • Originally posted by r1lark View Post
                Its the 'offset' bracket for the rear brake hose, where the hose attaches to the frame. There should be a bolt with a couple of large OD washers. Can't remember if it was only used on dual exhaust cars, but a look in the parts manual will tell you.
                Thanks Paul. I'll check it out and see if I had taken pictures of it before I took it off. Makes sense though.

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                • Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post
                  Thanks Paul. I'll check it out and see if I had taken pictures of it before I took it off. Makes sense though.
                  Topper, I mis-spoke, it actually attaches to the rear crossmember. Here is a pic from my '62 Daytona:

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                  Paul
                  Winston-Salem, NC
                  Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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                  • Originally posted by r1lark View Post
                    Topper, I mis-spoke, it actually attaches to the rear crossmember. Here is a pic from my '62 Daytona:

                    [ATTACH=CONFIG]81897[/ATTACH]

                    Thanks Paul. I wonder why they need the clearance with this bracket. It would seem to introduce leverage during vibration to undo the bolt and drop off.

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                    • I was ambitious today and went to work in earnest on the GT.

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                      I finished the heater hoses today. Just about 16ft of 5/8" hose and about 30" of 3/8" hose for the defroster. Two "Ts" and 14 hose clamps just for this job.

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                      If you recall the hole I drilled into the shroud, the lower hose goes through it and while it was a pain, I got the clamp on there.

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                      Close fit, but it does clear. It does touch the frame a bit, so I will have to protect it with some rubber hose.

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                      Fan on, shroud is pretty much on and no, I am not painting it. It's a slippery slope and I am tired of sanding and painting. I'll have plenty of that when I do the trunk, floors, doors, rear quarter........

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                      • So, I was too lazy to separate the parking brake handle to get the detent out and replace the hair spring. I went to the hardware store yesterday and bought a light cone spring and jammed it in the opening opposite the detent. It can't pop out and the base of the spring fits tightly in between the supports. It works perfectly and only cost 0.96 cents. Took a whole minute to fix.
                        Last edited by Topper2011; 06-22-2019, 05:47 AM.

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                        • Tried installing my new exhaust today. Unfortunately, the left side fouls against the oil pan, causing the header pipe angles outward and not parallel to the driveshaft.

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                          Right side fits better.

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                          You can see it doesn't fit quite right.

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                          I'll have to contact the vendor and see what he can do. So i moved on to filling the coolant and installing the Turner adapter ring onto the spindle.

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                          I put an ice pack on the spindle and Map gas for the ring.

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                          Time for lunch.

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                          • Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post
                            Tried installing my new exhaust today. Unfortunately, the left side fouls against the oil pan, causing the header pipe angles outward. I'll have to contact the vendor and see what he can do.
                            JMO, I don't know who your pipe supplier is but they either don't have a good pattern or don't care much about getting the first iteration correct. I'd talk to them but I'd be nervous about getting the next one correct either.

                            If the second one is not much better or you decide to solve the problem yourself, pie cut the pipe to get it where it needs to be and MIG it. Then I'd probably try another supplier in the future.

                            On my 74 Avanti, I had a local shop bend 2 1/2" pipe close to what was needed and leave some extra length. I then fit the header pipe to the left side manifold and MIGed the flange in place. The shop said they could fab the pipe but I was in no position to trailer it into them.

                            Bob

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                            • Originally posted by sweetolbob View Post
                              JMO, I don't know who your pipe supplier is but they either don't have a good pattern or don't care much about getting the first iteration correct. I'd talk to them but I'd be nervous about getting the next one correct either.

                              If the second one is not much better or you decide to solve the problem yourself, pie cut the pipe to get it where it needs to be and MIG it. Then I'd probably try another supplier in the future.

                              On my 74 Avanti, I had a local shop bend 2 1/2" pipe close to what was needed and leave some extra length. I then fit the header pipe to the left side manifold and MIGed the flange in place. The shop said they could fab the pipe but I was in no position to trailer it into them.

                              Bob
                              Bob, that's good advice. I too thought of bringing it down to the muffler guy, but these pipes are aluminum coated vs the mild steel the muffler guy would use. I've contacted the vendor and wait to see what he says. Hopefully good news.

                              I have some advice to pass on. Fill your cooling system with water first before wasting it when you find out it leaks at the hoses. Seems my tension clamps didn't put enough tension on the hoses to withstand the 16lbs of pressure I put in with my Stant pressure tester. So I have to give in and use worm clamps. I did install the new distributor cap, rotor and wires. Time for lunch and no more work on the car today.

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                              • Ok, the vendor wanted some comparison pictures and he's going to talk to his Studebaker pattern guy. He seems pretty responsive, so wish me luck.

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                                As you can tell, it's a bit off.

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                                I relented and went with worm gear hose clamps. I will pressure test it tomorrow when I get a little more coolant to top it off.

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