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My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

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  • Originally posted by Trikebldr View Post
    Just had to chuckle a bit at the title to your thread! "Half-a$$'d"??? Looking pretty good to me! I sure do enjoy following what others are doing, especially when accompanied with pictures. You've sure kept my attention for the last few days, reading back through your whole process. I think I am just getting started where you did in the beginning. just got my '50 Commander and don't intend to make it a show-restoration, but just make it run well and reliable, then use if for road trips.
    Anxious to see how yours turns out once you get it back on the road.
    Now, need to go get more popcorn and keep reading!

    Thanks, that gives me encouragement, especially when things go south.

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    • Originally posted by Buzzard View Post
      Roland,
      In your post # 251, you reference the Lincoln Highway.
      When we commute back and forth between Canada and Arizona, we experience part of Hwy # 50, Lincoln Highway in northern Nevada near Eureka NV. They call it the "loneliest road in America" and for a good reason. There is a whole lot of open space out there. Also the sight of the Silver State Classic a balls out section of closed highway where once a year you can legally let your Studebaker rip! I'd love to try it one day.
      Cheers, Bill

      Bill, I want to see that road one of these days. Many motorcyclists ride on it and I understand it's 200 miles between gas stations.

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      • I've added the preload to the bearings on the carrier and favored the left side to take up just that little bit of extra backlash. It's done the trick and I'm closer to the .003" I needed.

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        I felt confident enough to install the permanent bearings and place the carrier for the last time.

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        A little light oil for the bearings.

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        I even slapped some paint on the differential.

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        I installed the axle seal on the left side and heated the bearing to slip onto the axle. Unfortunately, it appears the axle is worn.

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        Someone tried to use a punch to fix the axle. I've tried this method before and have never been successful. The other axle isn't any better, the bearing isn't solidly attached. Sigh....

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        • I took Saturday off to join the Sequoia Chapter and my Rambler/Lincoln Highway/CJMC friend Neil on the annual picnic.

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          Neil's Rambler

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          Lisa's Bullett nose, next to Gary's 49 pickup.

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          My wife and I enjoyed the day out and met some really nice people. Thanks to Lou and Neil.

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          • Thanks for the pictures, Topper2011. That Sequoia event used to (many years ago) have a rule that you couldn't leave your hood open. It could be open if you had a problem or if you were showing someone something. I guess that sensible rule is no longer in effect there.
            Gary L.
            Wappinger, NY

            SDC member since 1968
            Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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            • Originally posted by studegary View Post
              Thanks for the pictures, Topper2011. That Sequoia event used to (many years ago) have a rule that you couldn't leave your hood open. It could be open if you had a problem or if you were showing someone something. I guess that sensible rule is no longer in effect there.
              Thanks Gary. I hope to attend more Studebaker functions. Studebaker West Swap meet next week!

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              • LOVE, LOVE, LOVE that bright red bullet-nose! Is there a thread about it somewhere in this forum? Really looks good without front bumper.

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                • Originally posted by studegary View Post
                  Thanks for the pictures, Topper2011. That Sequoia event used to (many years ago) have a rule that you couldn't leave your hood open. It could be open if you had a problem or if you were showing someone something. I guess that sensible rule is no longer in effect there.
                  That may have been because all you would see is 40-50 years of dirt and crud. I was really surprised at how little attention was paid to underhood appearance when I started going to Studebaker events. Perhaps this is why; they won't let you show it so who cares? As bad as mine looks under the hood, I've still only seen one, in person, that looks better (just my opinion) and it is the green '55 Hawk in the third pic; (Yes, it has a '53 front end on it). There again, maybe all the good looking engines and compartments are under closed hoods so nobody will ever know the effort that has been put forth to make them nice.
                  sigpic

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                  • Originally posted by bensherb View Post
                    That may have been because all you would see is 40-50 years of dirt and crud. I was really surprised at how little attention was paid to underhood appearance when I started going to Studebaker events. Perhaps this is why; they won't let you show it so who cares? As bad as mine looks under the hood, I've still only seen one, in person, that looks better (just my opinion) and it is the green '55 Hawk in the third pic; (Yes, it has a '53 front end on it). There again, maybe all the good looking engines and compartments are under closed hoods so nobody will ever know the effort that has been put forth to make them nice.
                    The reason was that closed hoods was a requirement of the owner of the property where the picnic used to be held. He felt like it looked like a lot of Studebakers needed repair and that they looked better, especially for pictures, with their hoods closed.
                    I used to refer to a row of cars with open hoods as "feeding time at the zoo".
                    Gary L.
                    Wappinger, NY

                    SDC member since 1968
                    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                    • I've been looking for a 24" pipe wrench for holding the pinion so I can torque the pinion nut to specs. I tried to find a decent one on CL, but things didn't pan out and ended up getting a HF for less than $11 and a cheap flashlight for free.

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                      Torqued to the recommended 150ftlbs. Preload didn't get any higher, so I think I shimmed it correctly. I can now close up the carrier and fill it with gear oil so I don't forget. I'm still looking for axles if anyone have some laying around in good shape.

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                      Time to install the heater valve. I made a gasket out of a sheet of rubber I had laying around.

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                      I had to move the oil filter bracket as the new valve is longer and the holding bolts foul the valve.

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                      You wouldn't believe how long this took to do, but it's in.

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                      • Don't think that oil filter bracket stock. Never seen one like it before.

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                        • Whatever you do... don't try using that HF pipe wrench on any serious pipe work. It'll be dull before the first job is done. I often find decent Rigid pipe wrenches on Craigslist for cheap. They last forever on 'round the house jobs.
                          sals54

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                          • Originally posted by 70Avanti2 View Post
                            Don't think that oil filter bracket stock. Never seen one like it before.
                            It's made by Oil Pure, uses a roll of toilet paper. It's really old school.. I kind of like it.

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                            • Originally posted by sals54 View Post
                              Whatever you do... don't try using that HF pipe wrench on any serious pipe work. It'll be dull before the first job is done. I often find decent Rigid pipe wrenches on Craigslist for cheap. They last forever on 'round the house jobs.

                              It only has to work for the time being holding the pinion to get the proper torque. For $11, I don't expect much, but it's not the first time an HF product has surprised me.

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                              • A little more done each day. Worked on the driveshaft as I am getting close to reinstalling it.

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                                Removed the U-joints and they didn't look bad at all.

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                                Cleaned and painted it. Will let it cure for several days before installing the U-joints.

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