New 1950 Studebaker Crest or Repaint the Original

[TWChamp]

Hmm, now I'll have to go out and check the "LAND" fender script I just bought from SI.
I still haven't figured out the mystery of the missing "LAND" and mounting holes for it on the left fender.
I checked my new crest next to the original, and other than the metric thread, it looks perfect.

[StudeMann]

A few years back I bought reproduced hood and trunk emblems and the Land Cruiser script for the fenders from one of the main Stude vendors. They were all very poorly made and I sent them back. The LC fenders script was about 7/8 the size it should be so the studs wouldn't fit the holes. I had the originals re-chromed at no small expense.
I'm sure Richard Quinn's products are of the highest quality. He doesn't do anything that isn't excellent.
Jim

[thunderations]

Polish the heck out of the original and clear it. Nothing like the "Gold" to set of a Studebaker. Might not be original in appearance, but it is BLING.

[BRUCESTUDE]

Use a new one! A little bling....

[Hallabutt]

If you use the reproduction, which looks pretty good to me, you can always go back, if you have a change of heart.

[TWChamp]

You're asking opinions, here's mine. Decades ago I moved on from trying to improve an original car, by making some parts look new, while trying to retain the originality of the car. I'm not above touching up newly accrued paint chips, but any more then that I generally accept as patina. IMO what works for a restored car or one that has been significantly refurbished, is out of place on an original car.

I generally feel the same way, but when the paint is gone and rust starts, like on my 50 Land Cruiser hood and trunk, then it's time for new paint. Also, the hood crest is such a beautiful thing that I feel it deserves to be shown as it was made. Luckily my upholstery is good enough to leave alone, and the chrome is pretty good also since I polished away the rust stains.

[Studebaker Wheel]

I am the one who had the 1950-51 hood medallions reproduced. Was not aware that the nut was metric but thinking that is not a very big deal? As for the flaking that NEVER happens. I would like to see one of my reproductions that has happened to. If it does you receive a 100% refund or replacement. I have sold over 250 without a complaint or return. Note current price $5 cheaper than my original price and I pay the postage.

[Hallabutt]

You're asking opinions, here's mine. Decades ago I moved on from trying to improve an original car, by making some parts look new, while trying to retain the originality of the car. I'm not above touching up newly accrued paint chips, but any more then that I generally accept as patina. IMO what works for a restored car or one that has been significantly refurbished, is out of place on an original car.

[r1lark]

If the new one is like most of the other repro parts I've used, it will start fading or flaking pretty quick if the car sees much sunlight. If you paint your original yourself, it will most likely last longer -- especially using the pinstriping paint as mentioned by tsenecal.

[tsenecal]

These paints are used for signs and pinstriping. They come in a variety of colors, and shouls be pretty durable. https://www.eastwood.com/1-shot-pain...-1-2-pint.html

[Mike Sal]

I did mine years ago. I used brasso to clean it up, then took the time to mask it all off painted it with enamel paints.
Mike Sal

[Champ51]

We painted ours about 5 years ago and it still looks good enough for our car. My wonderful sister-in-law, who was learning to paint at the time, painted it using paints she had on hand. Unfortunately, the clear coat I used afterwards "pulled" her white paint a bit. Looking at it now, I wish we had chosen a different red, but otherwise I'm happy with the results.

[TWChamp]

I finally broke down and bought a new crest for my 1950 hood. I have several others that need paint, and was wondering if anyone has painted their crest, and what paint they used? It's going to be tough to make the original look as nice as the new one, but I was disappointed that a metric thread was used on the new one, and the size of the nut (wrench size) is considerably smaller.