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GT Hawk steering box rebuild

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  • GT Hawk steering box rebuild

    Anyone pulled the box & rebuilt themselves?
    big job for one or send out to have rebuilt?
    is 63 Hawk a Ross box?

  • #2
    There are a lot of ifs involved. If your mechanically inclined, if you have a shop manual, if you have the tools required to do the job, if you have the parts to do the job? The key thing to know is this. Are the two hard parts, namely the sector shaft and worm gear in good condition, or are they worn out? If these two items are ok, then it is a matter of replacing bushings, bearings, seals/gaskets, setting the right torque requirements and filling the box with the correct lubricant. If you don't have the right tools and try to wing it, then most likely your in trouble.

    Your GT should have a Ross SL type box.

    An NOS box sells for about $650.00. Depending on what needs to be done to the box for rebuild, the cost is any where between $300.00 to $650.00, plus shipping 2 ways. All of the parts are available to do your box.

    Options: You can try and rebuild it.
    You can send it out. People rave about Lares, We can also rebuild your box, or sell you an NOS one, ready to bolt on.
    Bo

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    • #3
      Thanks for the info
      i’ve Rebuilt many items but never a steering box. I’ll get the shop manual for settings & tools required & take it from there.

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      • #4
        Char, You will find that the only thing it really needs are the 2 pins on the sector shaft. They get worn through years of use and no proper lube. You can grind the ends of the pins flush with the back of the sector shaft face and turn the pins. Push them back in and tack weld them in place.

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        • #5
          I will definitely rebuild especially since I now have a core that I can work on offline.
          what was described to me as practically un driveable was a walk in the park when I test drove it compared to a 57 Chev pickup truck with manual steering.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Alan View Post
            Char, You will find that the only thing it really needs are the 2 pins on the sector shaft. They get worn through years of use and no proper lube. You can grind the ends of the pins flush with the back of the sector shaft face and turn the pins. Push them back in and tack weld them in place.
            You probably want to weld them better than just tack welding - unless we have a terminology gap. They should be welded by a pro who understands the crucial nature of steering parts.
            RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

            17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
            10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
            10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
            4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
            5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
            56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
            60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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            • #7
              Have you done the troubleshooting to determine for certain that the steering box is the problem?

              The biggest culprit contributing to lost motion is the center bell crank where the two tie rods and the drag link meet. If someone rocks the steering wheel back and forth, you can hold the end of the bell crank and the inner tie rod ends in your hand and feel how they move. Any vertical movement should be eliminated, generally by rebuilding the bell crank shaft or by tightening the pinch bolt.
              RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

              17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
              10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
              10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
              4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
              5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
              56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
              60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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              • #8
                I got the link from the seller's String here to the eBay Ad and found that this Car HAS Power Steering, so in addition to checking the center Bellcrank Bushings, you need to check the P/S, often the Control Valve has been maladjusted when resealing it.

                The Adjustment Lock Nut on the Spool Spring is VERY sensitive, an 8th of a turn WILL make a steering sensitivity difference!
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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