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1957 President classic Help

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  • 57classic
    replied
    StudeRich is that the resister dead center of the firewall that one end connects to the coil
    the other from the harness. The short wire seems to crank the engine fine now i need the other to run it thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • 57classic
    replied
    StudeRich is that the resister dead center of the firewall that one end connects to the coil
    the other from the harness. The short wire seems to crank the engine fine now i need the other to run it thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • 56H-Y6
    replied
    Hi 57 Classic
    Glad to hear that it found an appreciative buyer, even if you do end up parting it out, at least it won't be wasted as scrap for China.

    Once you have it running and determine if the engine and powertrain are good, then you should be able to better decide it's fate. If it proves to be good mechanically, I'd recommend you set your sights on finding a '57 parts car with good glass as well as other interchangeable parts. Ideally that would be a rusty but complete '57 President Classic but regular wheelbase four door President and Commander sedans do show up frequently on eBay and other sources.

    I had a '57 President Classic that I stupidly sold in '91, it was an enjoyable nice driving car....just one of many dumb things I've done.
    I was very tempted to bid on the car you bought as it appears to be so solid and rustfree but really don't want to take on a project right now. I wish you good luck with it and hope you will find it worthy of restoration.
    Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • 56H-Y6
    replied
    Hi 57 Classic
    Glad to hear that it found an appreciative buyer, even if you do end up parting it out, at least it won't be wasted as scrap for China.

    Once you have it running and determine if the engine and powertrain are good, then you should be able to better decide it's fate. If it proves to be good mechanically, I'd recommend you set your sights on finding a '57 parts car with good glass as well as other interchangeable parts. Ideally that would be a rusty but complete '57 President Classic but regular wheelbase four door President and Commander sedans do show up frequently on eBay and other sources.

    I had a '57 President Classic that I stupidly sold in '91, it was an enjoyable nice driving car....just one of many dumb things I've done.
    I was very tempted to bid on the car you bought as it appears to be so solid and rustfree but really don't want to take on a project right now. I wish you good luck with it and hope you will find it worthy of restoration.
    Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • 57 Classic
    replied
    Welcome and your handle is very close to mine. Many years ago I brought my 57 Classic back from the edge of the grave, but that was 84 when things were cheaper.
    Good luck on getting yours going. The 289 is a great motor.

    Brian Millette
    the other 57 classic.

    Leave a comment:


  • 57 Classic
    replied
    Welcome and your handle is very close to mine. Many years ago I brought my 57 Classic back from the edge of the grave, but that was 84 when things were cheaper.
    Good luck on getting yours going. The 289 is a great motor.

    Brian Millette
    the other 57 classic.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    That's a shame Leonard, that beautiful SteelDreamzs '56 or '57 Sedan or Wagon has a really nicely restored engine compartment, so perfect right down to the hose clamps and American Bosch decal on the wiper motor that it makes the battery box really stand out being the wrong color, they were painted at the manufacturer, Black before installation and installed after the fenders were painted, so they are never fender color. [V][:0]

    StudeRich
    Studebakers Northwest
    Ferndale, WA

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    That's a shame Leonard, that beautiful SteelDreamzs '56 or '57 Sedan or Wagon has a really nicely restored engine compartment, so perfect right down to the hose clamps and American Bosch decal on the wiper motor that it makes the battery box really stand out being the wrong color, they were painted at the manufacturer, Black before installation and installed after the fenders were painted, so they are never fender color. [V][:0]

    StudeRich
    Studebakers Northwest
    Ferndale, WA

    Leave a comment:


  • 57classic
    replied
    Thanks you are a big help




    Leave a comment:


  • 57classic
    replied
    Thanks you are a big help




    Leave a comment:


  • lstude
    replied
    quote: It turns free by hand at the crank and the plugs look good But where is the dip stick ?
    Here is where the dipstick is. If it is not there, maybe the tube bracket has been removed from the head bolt. Look down at the oil pan and see if the dipstick tube is connected



    Leonard Shepherd
    http://leonardshepherd.com/

    Leave a comment:


  • lstude
    replied
    quote: It turns free by hand at the crank and the plugs look good But where is the dip stick ?
    Here is where the dipstick is. If it is not there, maybe the tube bracket has been removed from the head bolt. Look down at the oil pan and see if the dipstick tube is connected



    Leonard Shepherd
    http://leonardshepherd.com/

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Welcome to SDC and the Forum, you can join SDC from the top of the page on this forum.

    You are going to need a short alligator clip equipped jumper wire and a longer one 3 ft. or so to hot wire it.

    You connect the long one, from the ign. switch side of the ceramic resister that should be on the firewall to the + Batt. cable terminal on the Solenoid for Ign. then connect the short one to the same hot side of the Solenoid and just touch it on the small term. on the Solenoid marked "S" for start for 4-5 second bursts to crank the engine, every now and then squirting a small amount of gas from a small container when the engine has stopped turning. This can be dangerous, as you never know if it may backfire out of the carb. and set the gas on fire, that is why you don't want very much of it, and never crank it while putting the gas in.

    Also try not to stand in line with the fan, so it does not throw anything including fan blades at you! Above all be careful! It is always much safer to buy a new Ignition switch, and replace it, then to hotwire it! [:0]

    If it has been sitting a long time since it was last run, the points may be pitted, corroded and or closed up, so the coil will not fire. It may need new points to run. You check for spark at one of the plug wires if it does not start.

    The dipstick tube would have been just to the rear of the center exhaust port on the pass. side cylinder head.

    StudeRich -Studebakers Northwest Ferndale, WA

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Welcome to SDC and the Forum, you can join SDC from the top of the page on this forum.

    You are going to need a short alligator clip equipped jumper wire and a longer one 3 ft. or so to hot wire it.

    You connect the long one, from the ign. switch side of the ceramic resister that should be on the firewall to the + Batt. cable terminal on the Solenoid for Ign. then connect the short one to the same hot side of the Solenoid and just touch it on the small term. on the Solenoid marked "S" for start for 4-5 second bursts to crank the engine, every now and then squirting a small amount of gas from a small container when the engine has stopped turning. This can be dangerous, as you never know if it may backfire out of the carb. and set the gas on fire, that is why you don't want very much of it, and never crank it while putting the gas in.

    Also try not to stand in line with the fan, so it does not throw anything including fan blades at you! Above all be careful! It is always much safer to buy a new Ignition switch, and replace it, then to hotwire it! [:0]

    If it has been sitting a long time since it was last run, the points may be pitted, corroded and or closed up, so the coil will not fire. It may need new points to run. You check for spark at one of the plug wires if it does not start.

    The dipstick tube would have been just to the rear of the center exhaust port on the pass. side cylinder head.

    StudeRich -Studebakers Northwest Ferndale, WA

    Leave a comment:


  • 57classic
    replied
    It turns free by hand at the crank and the plugs look good But where is the dip stick ? Would you use starting fluid or gas? carb is vey clean and choke works good. I dont have ing key any thoughts to remove or jump out?

    Leave a comment:

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