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  • hawk floor patches

    Started to welded up the drivers side floors on the hawk. Finished the rear and started to build the front. The rear I just used flat tin as it's under the seat and undercoated and will be covered with insulation. The front I'am putting a little more effort in although they will get the same treatment. First patch is built and tacked in place. Just a matter of taking a piece of heavy tin and stretching it where it needs to be and creasing and flattening where it needs to be. Still need to build the piece from the rocker box out to the door and the section from the firewall to about where the master cylinder hole is. Also finished the inner fender. Didn't finish the lower front patch much as it's covered by the rear fender and when the rock shield is in place you can't really see it. But did finish off the area around the wheel opening somewhat.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Did you just patch up the "inner" rocker panel piece, or cut it off & replace it?
    Mike S

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    • #3
      Mike I cut it off and build new plus add a piece of 3/16 by 1 1/2 in angle iron between the hinge pillar and the door post that will be under the rocker panel to stiffen up that area a little. Built both the rocker box and the inner rocker panel. When I get the floor done out to the door I will fit the outer rocker panel.

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      • #4
        Click image for larger version

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ID:	1717002Not a hawk, but I started replacing the floor in my 48 Convertible. I went to a heat and Air Condition shop and had them bend the edge like the original then I cut, bent, and welded the whole side in. I braced the underside with 1 1/2" X 1/8 angle. I know it won't look original but I'm not trying to impress anyone. I just don't want to fall through.
        Neil Thornton

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        • #5
          Looks good Neil

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Doug M View Post
            Looks good Neil
            Thanks Doug, I've got it running, and as soon as I get the floor done, i'll get it driveable. Trying to get all the mechanical stuff under the driver's floor done before I Do that side.
            Neil Thornton

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            • #7
              Got the last of the driver side floor patches tacked in today. Now to just finish up tomorrow and fit the rocker panel. Also got the rear fender up into primer after doing rust repair.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                pictures of floor when I stared and rear fender
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  Floor on the drivers side is done other than a coat of bed liner. Had to cut into the lower door hinge area to fix the plate that bolts the door to the hinge. Not what I wanted to do but didn't have many options. Also one bolt hole was striped so welded a nut to the back side. Fixed the plate and rewelded the door up and put a coat of paintable bed liner on it.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    Floor is finished on the drivers side and started to fit the rocker panel.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      Make sure the car is fully resting on the suspension (no jacks under frame) when welding the rockers, those frames flex a lot and don't fit well if the frame is supprted on stands during welding. Ask me how I found out.....

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for posting your work and keep the photos coming. I believe I will be tackling this same issue soon and appreciate any information on how to do it.

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                        • #13
                          63r-2Hawk Yes you never want to replace any body panels on anything not just a Studebaker with out a jack or jack stand under the rear suspension.

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                          • #14
                            Got the door hung. It had a large dent in the center that pulled about 90% with a plunger. Have the rocker set up and all that's needed is to weld it on. I feel I have good gaps all the way around. In fact real good for a Studebaker k body. I made the rocker to door gap a little wider than stock as I feel the k bodies are a little tight from the factory. If it looks to wide after paint I can always cheat it a little with the rocker mldg. if I put those back on. Had to shim the lower door a 1/8 more than I like to but both the door post bottom and lower hinge plate on the door where toast. So being off a 1/8 isn't to bad . Just stands to reason they had to both be off in different directions. Had thought of shaving the door handle and lock and go electric with bear claw latches but don't see a easy way to mount a door popper. Also looks to me like Studebaker had thought about putting a 1/4 window in the sail or c pillar panel. Which ever you prefer to call it. That or they used a inside panel off something else but can't think of what it would be.
                            Attached Files

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                            • #15
                              Looking good, Steve.
                              sigpic
                              Bob Shaw
                              Rush City, Minnesota
                              1960 Hawk - www.northstarstudebakers.com
                              "The farther I go, the behinder I get."

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