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West Coast R3 builder?

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  • PackardV8
    replied
    Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
    Many reviews on Summit, Jegs, and Speedway all showed problems with just about every brand, so I went the cautious route.
    Agree, I wouldn't go with a hot rod brand. I chose to use the OEM GM truck unit. They're more likely to be durable.

    jack vines

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  • bezhawk
    replied
    Many reviews on Summit, Jegs, and Speedway all showed problems with just about every brand, so I went the cautious route.

    Leave a comment:


  • PackardV8
    replied
    This gives you adjustability, and if there is ever a leak it is not inside on the clutch facing, and you don't have to pull the transmission.
    Getting OT, and I agree with the theory, but in practice, I keep coming across most all OEMs some years back choose to use the hydraulic throwout bearings and warranting them for 50,000 miles or whatever. Your opinions and results may vary.

    jack vines

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  • bezhawk
    replied
    I just finished a TKO 600 in a customers car. I chose the 600 because the standard 500 low ratio is 3.33, and the 600 is 2.89 or there abouts. I used a 3.92 twin traction with Mosier axles, and didn't want him to have to shift in 5 ft. Also there are two different overdrive ratios. I also used the QuickTime scatter shield bell housing, and a Centerforce dual friction clutch. I used the stock clutch arm to actuate a hydraulic clutch master cylinder to a hydraulic pull back slave cylinder hooked to the Chevy style clutch fork. This gives you adjustability, and if there is ever a leak it is not inside on the clutch facing, and you don't have to pull the transmission.

    Leave a comment:


  • t walgamuth
    replied
    Originally posted by Corley View Post
    And once again, a perfectly simple and honest request for information deteriorates into a stupid "my old man can beat up your old man" shouting match. This forum is the best, and also the worst. Best because there is such a wealth of information available to any interested party. Worst, because of constant attacks and sniping, and insistence on "I am right", "my way or the hiway" attitudes.

    Seems to me that people should be allowed their opinion without being attacked, no matter what side you are on. This is the main reason that I've dropped out of this forum for extended periods, I just get tired of the sniping. Seems to be pretty much the same user ID's involved in attacks a lot of the time.

    "Can't we all just get along?"
    Here here! I'll be brewing up a batch of hot chocolate, buttered popcorn and we can all sing Kumbayah at 500 pm.

    We have some sticklers here on authenticity and there are the same over at the Mercedes forum where people go off on being sure to always replace both brake calipers at the same time because the factory service manual says so.

    Well the FSM was written for factory service technicians not hobbyist with all the liability and need to make a profit associated with automotive service business.

    The cars are often 30 to 40 years old and who knows if the caliper is factory or has already been changed twice? My policy has always been to fix what is broken. I do replace shocks in pairs and brake pads in pairs but it all depends on the situation.

    There is room for reasonableness, IMHO.

    You know?

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  • Stunt
    replied
    Alan, good to know! Sending you a PM.

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  • Alan
    replied
    Now you are right up my alley. I have done many. I keep 2 or 3 TKO 500's under my work bench for when I need one in a hurry. But like skinning cats there are many ways to do it.

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  • Stunt
    replied
    Cool, thanks for the further info, everyone - this is very helpful.

    And Joe Hall, yeah, guess I neglected to mention, but this is a '61 Hawk. I've been curious about putting in a 5-speed, like the TKO 500. Hard to get a handle on how nuts of a job that is though. Certainly beyond my own mechanical expertise, and sometimes tough to find a shop willing to do that kind of swap. Have you done a 5-speed swap before? Any insight?

    Leave a comment:


  • Alan
    replied
    Dave, it all depends on what you are using this engine for. Drag Racing, 1/8 or 1/4. Just a little bit of power around town to put the ricers in place. Or Bonnie. The R3 pan is 1.100" deeper than stock. The gears on the R3 pump are .125" taller than stock for more volume and the oil pump pick up tube is an inch longer to get closer to the bottom of the pan. For drag racing I put a 45 degree angle horse collar baffle half way up the back of the pan to keep the oil off the rear main seal and to direct the oil back to the pick up tube.

    Leave a comment:


  • tsenecal
    replied
    I read an article on Racing Studebaker site, about filling in all of the depressions in the lifter valley. Couldn't find the article again but they used some type of metal impregnated epoxy, and they claimed that it sped the oil return to the holes at the rear of the valley. If interested you might try searching for it.

    Leave a comment:


  • PackardV8
    replied
    Is there any rough consensus out there as to whether these oiling improvements were helpful?
    At the same time the drain back holes were enlarged, the rocker shafts and rocker arms were changed to restrict the volume of oil being pumped into the rocker area. These two changes did solve the worst of the problem; well enough for anything this side of Bonneville.

    jack vines

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeHall
    replied
    To the OP,
    If you want to get around oil related problems, i.e. oil going to the topside faster than it can return to the pan, you might simply wanna slow the RPMs down. Since you are going to the extent you are, a 5-speed transmission would give you the gears for burning up the race track, and an upper gear for all other driving experiences. You have not mentioned what year/model Stude you are working on, buta 5-speed would go nicely in just about any 53 or later Stude. Just an idea.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64studeavanti
    replied
    If you want an 'R' pan, I have a couple of spares.

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  • DieselJim
    replied
    The stock oil pan can be modified to the R type. Phil Harris or Myers Studebaker have the parts. I have done a couple of them.

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  • Stunt
    replied
    Any of the 'R' oil pans have the windage tray
    There is also a baffle that bolts to one of the main bearing caps. As far as oiling goes, the later heads (570 and 582) had larger drain holes to help keep the oil from pooling in the rocker area.
    Ah - I thought I had read something about the drain holes and the baffle before, but couldn't find the info again. Thanks for this!

    Is there any rough consensus out there as to whether these oiling improvements were helpful? And are there better, more modern improvements easily available?

    Leave a comment:

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