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3spd manual with Automatic OD won't go into overdrive

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  • 3spd manual with Automatic OD won't go into overdrive

    I've made the circuit tests and verified electrically, the Overdive is trying to work. I connected a 6v light between the OD relay (terminal 2) and the negative terminal on the battery with the light inside the car. At about 30 mph, the light comes on meaning the relay was switched by the governor lockout switch, and through the OD kick down switch. When manually jumped the solenoid gives a heavy clunk(click). The OD at times does lock in, maybe once in every 20 tries. I'm thinking it's internal to the transmission, (worn out sprag?)

  • #2
    If it works sometimes, I would pull the solenoid and make sure the points are not oily. The main solenoid may be engaging causing the clunk, but the holding solenoid may not be getting power all of the time. My solenoid looked clean at first and then when I separated the points I could see a bead of oil. Some electrical cleaner and a dry cloth got the oil off.
    My main problem did turn out to be mechanical, but my overdrive would not engage at all.
    "In the heart of Arkansas."
    Searcy, Arkansas
    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
    1952 2R pickup

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    • #3
      In order for the solenoid to be able to move , you have to take the torque of the trans.
      Depending on the year of your car there is a temporary short of the ignition circuit in order to take the torque of the drivetrain for a split second so the solenoid can move the pall in the transmission.
      Does it shift when you take your foot off the gas?

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      • #4
        In the two months I've had the car, it's maybe shifted into OD 5 or 6 times when I let off the throttle for a few seconds.

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        • #5
          3spd manual trans with OD issues

          The above mentioned transmission also has bad 2nd and 3rd gear syncronizers worn out and it grinds at time unless you really shift slowly. Does anybody rebuild these or have rebuilt one for sale, maybe on an exchange basis?

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          • #6
            Have you already checked to be sure the engine mounts are good and aligned the shift rods? Saggy, oil soaked mounts interfere with the alignment of the shifter rods. When I got my car it was hard to shift to 2nd and especially 3rd. The mounts were good, but aligning the shifter really made a difference. Of course, my car no longer had the original engine and transmission and the engine had been removed a few times.
            "In the heart of Arkansas."
            Searcy, Arkansas
            1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
            1952 2R pickup

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            • #7
              You can take the solenoid apart? I understand the governor has a cover over points that close when the proper speed is achieved.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by dropdad View Post
                You can take the solenoid apart? I understand the governor has a cover over points that close when the proper speed is achieved.
                True, but the seals BOTH of them, on the Solenoid and the case opening are the more common "leakers" letting Oil in.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                • #9
                  As mentioned above , the solenoid has two coils.
                  Both coils are energized to pull the shift pall in and once it is fully pulled in
                  one of the two coils is deenergized and the other coil is the holding coil.
                  There are contacts under the cover on the solenoid to accomplice this.
                  These contact wear and burn and prevent the "pull in" coil to energize.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by dropdad View Post
                    You can take the solenoid apart? I understand the governor has a cover over points that close when the proper speed is achieved.
                    I was a bit nervous about taking the first one apart, but it is pretty easy. The points on both of the ones I checked were coated with oil, but didn't seem to be pitted. The arrangement of the points is rather ingenious. The shaft being moved by the "pulling" coil disengages the first set of points and closes the second set to cause the "holding" coil to stay energized.
                    I also removed my governor and cleaned the points as well as spinning the shaft with a variable speed drill to check its operation. I padded the jaws of the drill chuck so I wouldn't scratch the shaft. Also it doesn't require much speed.
                    "In the heart of Arkansas."
                    Searcy, Arkansas
                    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                    1952 2R pickup

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by dropdad View Post
                      The above mentioned transmission also has bad 2nd and 3rd gear syncronizers worn out and it grinds at time unless you really shift slowly. Does anybody rebuild these or have rebuilt one for sale, maybe on an exchange basis?

                      Studebakers West in Redwood City is not too much of a drive for you to get to. They do a beautiful job of rebuilding OverDrive trannys.

                      Address: 335 Convention Way # A, Redwood City, CA 94063


                      Phone: (650) 366-8787

                      Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
                      K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                      Ron Smith
                      Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

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                      • #12
                        I'm happy to report, after fixing several anomalies, my OD system is working! I found the throttle kick down switch was making intermittent contact on both of its two circuits. I removed the switch, took it apart (which it wasn't really designed to be "serviced") cleaned the contacts and plunger, then applied a little dielectric grease on the internal sliding contact block. I crimped the switch back together and it worked fine. I reinstalled and adjusted the switch. I road tested the car with no joy on the OD operation. When the OD relay was jumped, I could hear the OD solenoid clicking. I jacked the car up and removed and disassembled the solenoid. I cleaned the two sets of points inside paying particular attention to the contacts for the "hold in" windings. (These contacts all looked pretty good.) I put it back together and topped up the transmission with gear oil. While I was working with the OD solenoid, I noticed the lever for the OD lock out was about an 1/8" from its stop on the OD case. I spaced the OD control knob out about 3/16" then loosened the lock nut on the lever, pushing the lever to its stop, then tightened the nut. Now, the lever gets pushed against the stop before the knob is all the way in on the dash. I took the Stude for a road test and...Voila! The overdrive engaged and behaved in every way like it's described to in the shop manual, the Owners manual, and "The OVERDRIVE" diagnostic manual. I couldn't be happier! Thanks to All for your suggestions.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for the conclusion to your problem. My brother and I were discussing yesterday how some folks post for advice and then after a bit just stop posting. Someone else looking for the answer to the same problem never knows what may have worked.
                          Enjoy your overdrive. I love mine.
                          "In the heart of Arkansas."
                          Searcy, Arkansas
                          1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                          1952 2R pickup

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