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Hawk floor pans, reproduction or search for good used??

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  • Hawk floor pans, reproduction or search for good used??

    I bought a 63 GT yesterday that is very solid but definitely needs floor pans. Reproductions is the easy way out but I'm uncertain of their fit, ease of installation and how they look once installed. Any first hand experience out there you might want to share? Also, does anyone have a parts car with good floors or a set they never got around installing that might be for sale?

  • #2
    I have installed Classic floor pans, rockers and body braces in three cars and found them to be a relatively good fit. Be sure to use the little piece that goes into the bottom of the A post. When I had a problem with Classic I was satisfied with the service. I have also installed floors from a parts car another car that was not a Studebaker and would rather use the repops.
    Bill
    http://www.rustyrestorations.org/index.php
    sigpic

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    • #3
      Classic Enterprises makes the floor pans for your car. They also make the body braces and torque boxes that support the floor. They advertise in Turning Wheels, and a quick internet search will find them.
      Like Bill says they may require a little tweaking, but you'll be way ahead of starting with a flat sheet of steel.
      Dwight 54 Commander hardtop

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      • #4
        Classic does a great job of giving us a starting point for a decent repair. You may have to 'massage' the floor piece, as it is flat and has to be curved by hand, to fit properly. I found that their products are well made and some pieces are a heavier gauge than factory. There is always Leroy Carey , near Richmond, VA who makes panels and does the curving for you.
        64 GT Hawk (K7)
        1970 Avanti (R3)

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        • #5
          I've gotten several pieces for my '64 GT from Classic Ent. and have had very good luck with them. Had to "curve" the trunk floor pans (2 halves that weld together in the middle, not visible when finished) which was not all that difficult with patience. I have rocker panels to do yet, and just finished the rear front fender edge (left side) and vent door opening. I've never door metal replacement before and sure I could have had better outcome, but I've learned a lot and the more I do the better it turns out. As I said, patience is key and measure, measure, measure, then check alignment several times before welding. Good luck, Bill.

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          • #6
            If you just replace the floor, and not the braces that support the floor, you are only doing 1/2 the job. A strong floor but weak braces will not make the car any better. The floor will just be floating above the frame without the anchoring tie ins of the sub floor supports. A weak floor ans strong supports are the same problem. The floor ties in the surrounding door posts and hinge pillars. A rust weakened floor will allow the upper rest of the body to settle around the stronger support members. It ALL HAS TO BE strong to tie things together with the frame. Studebakers were built like a weak unibody that couldn't support itself with out an equally weak frame. Together they were fine, but take away the integrity of either, and it doesn't work.
            Bez Auto Alchemy
            573-318-8948
            http://bezautoalchemy.com


            "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 64V-K7 View Post
              There is always Leroy Carey , near Richmond, VA who makes panels and does the curving for you.
              The extra money spent for panels from Leroy Carey is the best investment one could make...

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              • #8
                Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
                If you just replace the floor, and not the braces that support the floor, you are only doing 1/2 the job. A strong floor but weak braces will not make the car any better. The floor will just be floating above the frame without the anchoring tie ins of the sub floor supports. A weak floor ans strong supports are the same problem. The floor ties in the surrounding door posts and hinge pillars. A rust weakened floor will allow the upper rest of the body to settle around the stronger support members. It ALL HAS TO BE strong to tie things together with the frame. Studebakers were built like a weak unibody that couldn't support itself with out an equally weak frame. Together they were fine, but take away the integrity of either, and it doesn't work.
                Bracings etc are great. Has odd rust decay, strictly the floor skin itself.

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                • #9
                  Nels, what did you buy? Is this an R1 or R2 Hawk? Any pictures?

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                  • #10
                    I have used pieces from both. I recommend getting everything you can from Leroy Carey. His stuff fits the best. Get the stuff Leroy doesn't make from Classic Enterprises and modify as needed to fit.
                    Wayne
                    "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

                    sigpic

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
                      .... Together they were fine, but take away the integrity of either, and it doesn't work.....
                      Is 't that what engineers, today call "Finite Element analysis"?
                      64 GT Hawk (K7)
                      1970 Avanti (R3)

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 4jc8z View Post
                        The extra money spent for panels from Leroy Carey is the best investment one could make...
                        Are the panels from Leroy a little wider? From the photos in Classics site, I think they will fall short by a few inches on the drivers side. Mine needs metal all the way to the swing up for the tunnel on that side.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by studefan View Post
                          Nels, what did you buy? Is this an R1 or R2 Hawk? Any pictures?
                          Now why would you suspect any such thing? However, you suspected right. It's an R2 full package car. Looks bad but it is way better. It needs plenty of help but doors shut nice with little or no rust in the doors or fenders. Great frame and torque boxes.
                          Last edited by nels; 06-25-2017, 03:07 PM.

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                          • #14
                            FYI, Leroy Carey lives in Amelia, VA if you need to contact him. I drove within a couple of miles of his house yesterday on my way to Richmond.
                            Last edited by Guido; 06-25-2017, 06:50 PM. Reason: Spelling...
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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by nels View Post
                              Are the panels from Leroy a little wider? From the photos in Classics site, I think they will fall short by a few inches on the drivers side. Mine needs metal all the way to the swing up for the tunnel on that side.
                              Leroy's panels are wider - and he will also custom make a set much wider if desired. His will be close to a drop in fit. Classic well, it may be better then a sheet of flat 18ga, but still needs much forming.

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