I bought a 63 GT yesterday that is very solid but definitely needs floor pans. Reproductions is the easy way out but I'm uncertain of their fit, ease of installation and how they look once installed. Any first hand experience out there you might want to share? Also, does anyone have a parts car with good floors or a set they never got around installing that might be for sale?
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Hawk floor pans, reproduction or search for good used??
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I have installed Classic floor pans, rockers and body braces in three cars and found them to be a relatively good fit. Be sure to use the little piece that goes into the bottom of the A post. When I had a problem with Classic I was satisfied with the service. I have also installed floors from a parts car another car that was not a Studebaker and would rather use the repops.
Bill
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Classic Enterprises makes the floor pans for your car. They also make the body braces and torque boxes that support the floor. They advertise in Turning Wheels, and a quick internet search will find them.
Like Bill says they may require a little tweaking, but you'll be way ahead of starting with a flat sheet of steel.Dwight 54 Commander hardtop
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Classic does a great job of giving us a starting point for a decent repair. You may have to 'massage' the floor piece, as it is flat and has to be curved by hand, to fit properly. I found that their products are well made and some pieces are a heavier gauge than factory. There is always Leroy Carey , near Richmond, VA who makes panels and does the curving for you.64 GT Hawk (K7)
1970 Avanti (R3)
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I've gotten several pieces for my '64 GT from Classic Ent. and have had very good luck with them. Had to "curve" the trunk floor pans (2 halves that weld together in the middle, not visible when finished) which was not all that difficult with patience. I have rocker panels to do yet, and just finished the rear front fender edge (left side) and vent door opening. I've never door metal replacement before and sure I could have had better outcome, but I've learned a lot and the more I do the better it turns out. As I said, patience is key and measure, measure, measure, then check alignment several times before welding. Good luck, Bill.
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If you just replace the floor, and not the braces that support the floor, you are only doing 1/2 the job. A strong floor but weak braces will not make the car any better. The floor will just be floating above the frame without the anchoring tie ins of the sub floor supports. A weak floor ans strong supports are the same problem. The floor ties in the surrounding door posts and hinge pillars. A rust weakened floor will allow the upper rest of the body to settle around the stronger support members. It ALL HAS TO BE strong to tie things together with the frame. Studebakers were built like a weak unibody that couldn't support itself with out an equally weak frame. Together they were fine, but take away the integrity of either, and it doesn't work.Bez Auto Alchemy
573-318-8948
http://bezautoalchemy.com
"Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln
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Originally posted by bezhawk View PostIf you just replace the floor, and not the braces that support the floor, you are only doing 1/2 the job. A strong floor but weak braces will not make the car any better. The floor will just be floating above the frame without the anchoring tie ins of the sub floor supports. A weak floor ans strong supports are the same problem. The floor ties in the surrounding door posts and hinge pillars. A rust weakened floor will allow the upper rest of the body to settle around the stronger support members. It ALL HAS TO BE strong to tie things together with the frame. Studebakers were built like a weak unibody that couldn't support itself with out an equally weak frame. Together they were fine, but take away the integrity of either, and it doesn't work.
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I have used pieces from both. I recommend getting everything you can from Leroy Carey. His stuff fits the best. Get the stuff Leroy doesn't make from Classic Enterprises and modify as needed to fit.Wayne
"Trying to shed my CASO ways"
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Originally posted by 4jc8z View PostThe extra money spent for panels from Leroy Carey is the best investment one could make...
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Originally posted by studefan View PostNels, what did you buy? Is this an R1 or R2 Hawk? Any pictures?Last edited by nels; 06-25-2017, 12:07 PM.
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Originally posted by nels View PostAre the panels from Leroy a little wider? From the photos in Classics site, I think they will fall short by a few inches on the drivers side. Mine needs metal all the way to the swing up for the tunnel on that side.
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