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1964 Daytona Hardtop Rescue Effort

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  • Creegster, I'm in the same situation due to rust from inside but I think marking where each shim would go & how many at each place would help all the way.
    But I've been wrong before, please write any thoughts about my idea...
    sigpic

    Josephine
    -55
    Champion V8
    4d sedan

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Noxnabaker View Post
      Creegster, I'm in the same situation due to rust from inside but I think marking where each shim would go & how many at each place would help all the way.
      But I've been wrong before, please write any thoughts about my idea...
      Yeah, I was going to take notes about the shim count, lots of photos, and all that: but was wondering if there are tricks to making it all work... :-)

      Comment


      • Ah, yeah I reckon it's always nice to know as much as possible beforehand!
        sigpic

        Josephine
        -55
        Champion V8
        4d sedan

        Comment


        • Originally posted by creegster View Post

          Yeah, I was going to take notes about the shim count, lots of photos, and all that: but was wondering if there are tricks to making it all work... :-)
          Creegster, I'm kinda late with this, but honestly my response was going to be exactly what you said above. You also may want to measure your gaps between the fender and the door, and the fender and the hood before tearing it apart. Remember that on a lot of Studebakers, you can take the whole front clip off pretty much as a unit.

          I actually shot video of removing the front drivers side fender on the '64 but have not made it into a video yet.
          Paul
          Winston-Salem, NC
          Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

          Comment


          • Update as of today................

            All the floorboards, firewall, etc inside the car are painted, and the replaced areas are painted on the 'bottom' of the car also. Additionally, got the Eastwood X-Mat installed on the inside roof of the car. I thought one roll would be enough, but went ahead and ordered a second roll since there is about 8" on each side that's not covered, and about 6" in front. I'll use the what's left to cover the firewall (instead of using the Kilmat there). Unfortunately, I see that I didn't take any pictures of all this, so next update will have a few pictures.

            Got started on the drivers side front fender. Two issues with this fender - a couple of holes in the battery support area, and also an area at the rear of the fender that was 'bubbling' due to some rust underneath.

            Here is the battery area before starting - sorry for the lousy pics but the sun was shining directly down during these pics. Several holes, and a good bit of surface rust. There was also some tar-like material sprayed in this area that I don't think was done at the factory.
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            Started cleaning up the battery box area to see how much metal needed to be replaced. A good bit of small pitting where the surface rust was, but still solid. The pic makes the pitting look worse than it really is:
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            Cleaned off the undercoating from the backside, and there are some thin areas towards the ''rear' also:
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            Decided to remove the reinforcing plate (where the holddown rod attaches, and where the horn mounts). Drilled out the spotwelds and used a heavy putty knife to separate the reinforcement plate:
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            Solid under the plate. If I try to fix this area by patching, the plate would have needed to come off anyway. Right now, I'm considering purchasing a NOS inner fender panel (apron) from Studebaker International. I'll call tomorrow to see what the shipping cost will be. Either I'll use the new inner fender panel with a NOS fender, or if I reuse this outer fender I'll cut out the whole battery area and replace it with the battery area from the NOS inner.

            Stripped off the paint on the rear edge of the outer fender. This had been worked before, and whoever did the work basically used a chipping hammer to depress this area against the inner flange piece, and used bondo to cover up the area that had some rust. Took some pics but they all came out terrible due to the sun. Marked the area to cut out with tape:
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            Got it cut out, and it really looked much better than I thought it would. There is some sort of tar-type material between the outer fender sheetmetal and the inner flange piece that must have been sprayed on before the flange piece and outer skin were mated together at the factory:
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            A lot of that tar material is still there, and the flange has surface rust but no real rust damage. There is actually a small gap designed in between the flange and the outer skin, but when rust starts in this area it expands to fill that gap then starts pushing the outer skin which form the rust 'bubbles'.

            I'll sandblast the exposed flange area tomorrow, and then use some Picklex20 in the area to treat any remaining rust, and prime with epoxy primer. Hopefully the repair will work out well, and I can reuse this fender. More to come.
            Paul
            Winston-Salem, NC
            Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

            Comment


            • Nice work! I would go for new stuff if affordable...
              I also did the rear front fenders on Josephine early on, shows on the racing side, but I used steel from a -66 Volvo Amazon uppside-down so the in-bended top became the lowest part, did both sides. I also replaced the inner piece towards the A-pillar & in the end it turned out like this:

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              & she still looks just as horrible after all these years...
              sigpic

              Josephine
              -55
              Champion V8
              4d sedan

              Comment


              • Here are the pics I didn't have last update....................

                Floorboard finished and coated; understand that this was not sprayed, but was brushed since the goal was not 'pretty' but protection:
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                The floor will eventually be covered with KilMat sound deadener/heat shield.

                The underside of the roof has Eastwood X-Mat (yes, I know those two headliner bows are upside down ):
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                Pretty much done with the body bolt 'sub-project'. When you think about it, there are a LOT of body bolts on this thing - I believe it's 21 total. All but a few of these have been pulled out, more than half of the bolts replaced, and a lot of the flat washers, and of course nuts and lockwashers. Here is another batch:
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                These washers are much thicker than a 'normal' washer. Some of the washers were not reusable, and I used up all my spares, so had to make a couple. Used a hole saw and cut them out of a piece of flat bar, then enlarged the center hole. They are about 1/16" thicker than the originals, but better a little thicker than a little thinner:
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                As mentioned, after all these years the body bolts loosen some and need to be tightened. Some of them need to be loosened when aligning body panels, so the time to make sure they can be loosened and re-tightened is before starting. But here is another reason - corrosion of the body bolts. This is a North Carolina car, and really was not all that bad as far as rust. But look at this body bolt that snapped in half during removal - thinned by at least 50%:
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                I know you California and Arizona folks don't need to worry about this (my California '62 GT has none of these issues, the zinc plating is still on the washers), but a lot of other areas in the US do. Check those body bolts!

                Currently I'm cutting out and installing the Eastwood X-Mat on the firewall, will have pics next time. Hoping that the X-Mat on the firewall and roof, and the better insulating material on the dash liner (instead of just regular fiberglass insulation), and the KilMat on the floor, will help to keep this black car cooler in the summer, as well as quieter on the road. We'll see. Been thinking about what to use on the panel behind the rear seat (between the seat and the trunk area). I have a corrugated plastic material that will be used here, but thinking it may need something like the Eastwood X-Mat also. Suggestions are welcome - anyone done anything like this??

                No more progress on the front fender, and waiting for the new left front inner fender panel to arrive from Studebaker International (thanks SI!!). Decided that the complexity (for me at least) of re-creating the battery box-area of the inner fender was not worth it for the cost of a new inner fender. I'll weld in the patch on the rear part of the outer fender first and see how this comes out. If it does well, then the battery box area of the new inner panel will be cut out and welded into the existing fender inner. But..........if the outer fender repair goes south, then a NOS outer and the NOS inner will be used.

                Back to the basement! Stay safe.
                Last edited by r1lark; 05-09-2020, 06:04 PM. Reason: fix the spellin'
                Paul
                Winston-Salem, NC
                Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

                Comment


                • Looking great Paul - keeps the rest of us on our toes about getting our stuff done...

                  Your gearshift reminds me of a friend's '64 ht that he restored back in the 2000s.

                  Comment


                  • Patrick, on the shifter - my Daytona is a factory 4-speed and was built with a bench seat, which is why the unusual shaped shifter lever. Your friends Daytona (which looks beautiful ) has the split bench seat so has the same shifter lever. Right now I"m using a split reclining bench seat in the car, like your friend's car. I like the seat alot, but I got a NOS interior for this car years ago for bucket seats, so it looks like the bucket seats will ultimately go into the car. The shifter lever for the buckets is straight instead of curved.

                    Progress update.................got finished with the X-Mat install on the firewall.

                    Made a template using brown wrapping paper. Since I had already made a template for the dash (firewall) liner, this was copied and only needed some relatively small modifications:
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                    Here are a couple of pics of the X-Mat finished:
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                    Guess next step is to get back on the dash (firewall) liner and get it finished up and installed. Still not sure what I'll use to change the color of the board. I plan to experiment with some scraps, and will try some satin black paint first. The other option is something like SEM interior dye, but hate to buy a can of that (not cheap) just to experiment with.

                    More to follow....................
                    Paul
                    Winston-Salem, NC
                    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

                    Comment


                    • Big box from Studebaker International arrives - what is it?


                      A big THANK YOU to ALL of our Studebaker Vendors!!!
                      Paul
                      Winston-Salem, NC
                      Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

                      Comment


                      • Well, Paul...considering the quality of your work to this point, I feel woefully unqualified to dare offer you advice...but for me, I would remove the complete part that is rusted out, take the new one and give it a healthy coating of epoxy primer followed by a topcoat, and use the complete NOS inner fender. I have great confidence that you can make the necessary measurements/template to do that job and not have to work so hard to weld in patches and chance the risks of introducing rust incubators that welding seams can harbor. Plus...less work!
                        John Clary
                        Greer, SC

                        SDC member since 1975

                        Comment


                        • Hey, I will always listen to advice!

                          I certainly understand where you are coming from John. But it's kinda a catch-22. Replacing the whole inner fender panel means drilling out all the spot welds that attach the inner fender panel to the outer fender, PLUS all the welds that attach the inner fender to the front deflector (the piece the headlight buckets sit in front of). Then everything has to aligned correctly and welded up. I'm thinking this is as much or more work than using the whole battery box area and butt-welding it to the existing inner. It wouldn't be small patches, but one large piece of the new inner, encompassing the entire battery box all the way down to the bottom edge where the reinforcement plate is. The rest of the existing inner is fine - the rust came from 'above' from battery acid. and none of the mounting points to the car will be changed, so the fender will go back on in the exact same place it came off.

                          But I will look at what it will take to change the whole inner, especially where it attaches to the deflector. It may not be as complicated as I think.

                          The other possibility is, if I can't satisfactorily fit the area at the rear of the outer fender, I will use the whole new inner along with a new outer fender that I already have.
                          Paul
                          Winston-Salem, NC
                          Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

                          Comment


                          • Paul, one advantage I had when doing my '48 is that the inner fender in that car was bolted, not spot welded. So, replacing it was not as critical. However, I will take full responsibility for the misalignment. Even though, shortly after production ramped up after WWII, all makes seemed to have fitment problems in the rush to compete for the pent-up demand for new cars. But, just as with cars over a decade newer, where the battery sits is always suspect for accelerated rust deterioration because of the battery acid.

                            True story...I found a 1948 Champion NOS inner fender hanging in an old chicken coop less than 25 miles from my home here in upstate SC. Not only did it still have the gray primer on it, but the factory tag with the part number still legible. The person who gave it to me said his grandfather worked for the local Studebaker dealer and at one time had lots of parts but had sold them off. One of the very few "Living Right," or "win the lottery," moments of my life.
                            John Clary
                            Greer, SC

                            SDC member since 1975

                            Comment


                            • Mighty nice!!! But I would also use the whole thing, trying to messure across & such first.
                              Seeing this I sure wish I was living on your side of the Atlantic now...

                              sigpic

                              Josephine
                              -55
                              Champion V8
                              4d sedan

                              Comment


                              • Paul, you looked like a 5 year old kid at Christmas opening up that box! LOL As I and others have said before, you are doing a marvelous job documenting your work, and your work is exemplary! Keep em coming, we thoroughly enjoy them. Bill

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