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Cost of GT front end rebuild?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by swvalcon View Post
    One of the hardest things is removing the front coil springs. If you don't have a spring compressor rent one. I have my own system for removing them but you need frame repair pulling pots in your shop floor to make it work.If you shop for parts you can help keep the cost down. Upper control arm bushing you can use GM'S and save over half on them. The lowers you are stuck with Studebaker. Still haven't found anything that will interchange. Go with the heavy springs up front. Plenty of post on here about that. Cs 655's. If you have power steering and those need rebuilt anything other than new seals hold onto your wallet as that will hit it hard. Found a local supplier for the bell crank kit that saved a lot and understand some Ford tie rods ends will work. Haven't got to those yet but hope to shortly.
    From that advice, I'm guessing you've not worked on very many Studebakers.

    I've removed and replaced front coil springs by myself with nothing more than jack stands and a floor jack. Takes less than an hour.

    And thanks for doing your part to support the Studebaker vendors..

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    • #17
      mbstude I'am glad that works for you. Myself I would rather know I'am safe. I park the car with the frame rail over one of my pulling pots, Then jack it up, pull a tire and put a jack stand under it. Then chain the front of the frame rail to my pot and use the floor jack to raise and lower the lower control arm. Never have to worry about the car falling on me or ducking a coil spring as it comes flying out of the cross member. I'am sure the weight of the car and the heavy stude V8 may hold the car down without being tied to the floor but sometimes it's just a empty frame with no motor. The empty frame you can almost pickup if you put your back into it.
      Last edited by swvalcon; 04-24-2017, 08:15 AM.

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      • #18
        With the easy access to a spring compressor these days it makes good sense to use one. Most auto parts stores have them available to loan. Makes the job easier and SAFER. I have used the jack and chain method in the past, but no good reason to take a chance any more. JMO.
        Pat Dilling
        Olivehurst, CA
        Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL


        LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=33611

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        • #19
          Which G M bushings work in the uppers?GM's are usually easy and cheap to get w/ urethane.

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          • #20
            It is unlikely everything needs fixing. If there is a problem the bellcrank is the first place to look. A arm bushings are pretty obvious. Unless there is any play at all, the kingpins may not need replacing. Look it over carefully and assess the problem. Parts are too scarce to be fixing things that are not broke. Not to mention expensive.

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            • #21
              Caso Gm k5196 same as a 70 olds. cutlass upper. $ 2.67 for two right now at Rock Auto. Some say they don't fit right but I replaced both sides on my hawk and they fit perfect. Only thing I can see is maybe the bolt on the end could be longer but my old one worked fine. Made my own tool to keep the A arm from bending when pressing them in out of two pieces of angle iron.
              Last edited by swvalcon; 04-24-2017, 12:04 PM.

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              • #22
                When you replace the kingpins, make sure whoever does it understands how far to press the lower bushing into the knuckle so that the "O" ring (or cork seal) has enough "squeeze" to seal the bottom of the knuckle. This is necessary to ensure that grease will travel upward through the knuckle, flow into the upper bearing and exit through the top when greasing the kingpins.

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                • #23
                  Thanks,SWVALCON.

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