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'64 hawk Ebay NC $1800

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  • #16
    It was an exercise undertaken to test and to improve upon my welding abilities. Next one I'll skip the intricate detail work and simply go with new 18 ga. metal with a few simple stiffening creases.
    Stronger and longer lasting than the original.
    Topside is concealed by carpet, bottom side by undercoating. Save that kind of OCD perfectionism for 100k + vehicles.

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    • #17
      I'd estimate that about 90% of the nice mid-western Studebaker's that I have seen at shows over the years have had their floors repaired at least once, as with 10 years of regular usage they were normally already due for replacement.
      Purchased a never in salt, 'rust free' Western '64 Daytona, for its pristine floors, and before I had racked up 10,000 miles of only summer driving it had developed holes in the drivers floor you could poke your finger through. Rain leaks in, carpet gets wet, all too soon its goodbye to that perfect floor.
      Just a given with old cars driven and regularly exposed to the elements. Kind of like replacing tires, it is just something that needs done from time to time.
      Last edited by Jessie J.; 03-03-2017, 11:01 AM.

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      • #18
        the 64's were terrible for water leaks around the doors....

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        • #19
          In the '50s and '60s our family never once had a problem with rust in any of our Studebaker's. Dad just went down to our local Studebaker dealer and traded in on a new one every two years. It wasn't even thought of that anyone would care to seen hanging unto any old Studebaker for more than four or five years, by which time most would be sporting their infamous South Bend 'racing stripe'.

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          • #20
            I wasn't saying that rusty cars shouldn't be restored. But there are still a lot of good, buildable cars in better shape than this one that one could start with. Take Chuck Naugle's place in Arizona for example.. A couple of hundred Studebakers up for grabs and a lot of them with very little (if any) rust, and there's more cars than buyers. Some people (like me) like doing mechanical work, but hate rust repair. Everyone is different, and it's all dependent on what the owner's skills and intentions are.

            Unless someone enjoys that kind of repair work or the car has sentimental value, why not start with the best example that you can find?

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            • #21
              Yup. gotta admit that I do enjoy that kind of work. The other part has to do with being a family man enjoying a potentially expensive hobby on a very limited budget while saving for the kids college education. I would likely not have ever bought a single Studebaker if I had waited until I could afford starting with the best example I could find.
              I like many others, started with what I could justifiably fit into my working mans family budget without shorting other family needs.
              Been a hands on involved Studebaker owner/hobbyist for 48 years and counting. Have owned a total of 14 Studebaker's, performing all work on them with my own two hands.
              As a active Studebaker (only) enthusiast I have had the pleasure of years of attending the South Bend Spring swap meets, (occurring the same week as my birthday, wife and I make an annual vacation out of it) in the good old days, shopping for NOS parts at SASCO in the old Studebaker harness factory, and enjoying dinner at Tippecanoe Place.
              And then there is our annual trek to the Mid Michigan Pure Stock Muscle Car Drags, and the hundreds of Studebaker friends the wife and I have made over the years, beginning in 1968. Never needed to own the 'best example I could find', as a perquisite to enjoying all the friends, fun, and occasions.
              Now down to 4 Stude's and a ton or two of parts, I continue at age 68 to enjoy the Studebaker hobby on my own terms and in my own way, being content with what I have, and the pleasure of that ownership and the involvement it has brought, I haven't had reason to either buy or trade one in over 20 years.
              Did let one get away however, as I sold off my long held '62 Champ pickup to one very enthusiastic and determined 15 year old for a father & son project.
              All of this to say, there is one heck of a lot of enjoyment to be found in the ownership of ANY Studebaker, and involvement in the Studebaker Drivers Club experience and exposure. Its not what you got but what you make of what you got that counts.

              1948 M-5
              1962 Lark 6 2dr sedan
              1964 Daytona HT
              1964 Daytona HT -parts car
              Last edited by Jessie J.; 03-03-2017, 11:15 PM.

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              • #22
                I offered $1000 and he accepted, so is it worth that? A complete powershift w/shifter is hard to come by, power steering is something else it has that I want, and I always like the '64 trunk lid. I wish he had said no way.
                Mark Riesch
                New Bern, NC

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                • #23
                  Anything can be rebuilt just depends on how long and hard you want to work.

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                  • #24
                    That '64 is well worth about $1500.00 as a Parts Car for the Full Flow 289, the Power Shift, the Decklid, the '63-'64 GT Only Climitizer System, whatever is left of the Gauges less Bezels, Power Steering if you need it etc.
                    Not to mention the 1966 Only, Wheel Covers!

                    So $1000.00 is a good deal.
                    Last edited by StudeRich; 03-23-2017, 01:40 PM.
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                    • #25
                      Plus the bucket seats with the head rests. Those are hard to find. If this car is parted out I would be interested in the top seat backs with the headrests.

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