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Gonna Look at this Studebaker this weekend

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  • #16
    Well... the weekend is almost over.
    Did you buy the car? Got any more pictures or info, or a judgement?
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by 6hk71400 View Post
      Nice Dash R1-R2 with 160 Speedometer and 6000 rpm Tach. Has the wiring also. Currently at $310 reserve not met with 1 day 8 hours to go.

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-Studeba...ZYevX7&vxp=mtr

      Bob Miles
      Tucson AZ
      Dash sold for $750.00. Just a FYI

      Bob Miles
      Tucson AZ

      Comment


      • #18
        I bought the Studebaker for $1200. 6 Cyl Engine, and Automatic Transmission. Vehicle Serial Number: 64S-Y4 252. I certainly "got what I payed for" but also think I "got a good deal".

        -Doesn't Run
        -Rusted Floorboards (but patched)
        -Transmission Pan bolt stripped out and botched by someone else
        -Transmission leaked all fluid out when driveshaft was pulled
        -RTV coated all over the Pan
        -Dash is bad
        -Exhaust has been cut off and is hanging

        Looks like the vehicle was inspected in 2015 and has been running recently. But the guy who sold it to me took it on a trade, and didn't know much about it. He did say it was delivered on a trailer, and that it was a former Father/Son Project. Looking through my phone I found a craigslist screenshot of an Advertisement for the car that I had looked at this summer. I'll include it.

        We tried to crank the engine over but It didn't fire. I have to admit that we used a tow dolly to tow the vehicle initially, and didn't immediately pull the drive shaft. But eventually I stopped and pulled the driveshaft. It wasn't a very smart idea, and I likely damaged this by transmission pulling this stunt, our circumstances were not ideal. We had another little mishap when the driveshaft was pulled out of the output shaft housing. Trans fluid and water went everywhere. This transmission had alot of water in it, maybe from an internal radiator leak.

        I figured it would be a good idea to pull the transmission and look for "blueing" and see if there were metal shavings in the pan. When I pulled the pan I could immediately tell that someone had already been in there very recently. The pan had tons of RTV caked all over it and I could see where a j-bolt/RTV fix had been used to fix a stripped out bolt. I didn't find any bluing of the internals. I'll include a photo of the transmission pan. To do this car right, or even to get it driving I think its safe to say that this transmission needs to be rebuild or replaced.

        I really really want to get this car running. I don't think it would take much.I'm more concerned about getting this thing running and going out and having fun with it than keeping it super original or mint.

        Last year I bought a Flathead 6 Cylinder w/ 3 Speed Column Shifted Transmission out of a Lark. The guy wanted a "bigger" motor so he was installing a SBC350 Chevy motor. I bought it for $120.00 off the guy, and kept it with the intention of finding a car and installing it. To my knowledge it runs and drive.

        Last year I also got a free Skybolt 6 Cylinder Engine from a guy I met off of Facebook. He gutted it out of a Wagon, and was installing A Mopar Engine. It had sat for like forty years, and was missing almost all the parts. I used it as a learning experience, and kept the good parts (flywheel, crank, etc...). He also gave me the bell-housing from that engine that mounted to a manual transmission.

        I'm going to see if I can get the Skybolt 6 to run in the car that I just bought. If it runs I might consider fixing the autotragic transmission.

        Otherwise I plan to manual swap this with a floor shifter using the transmission that I already have.Probably get aftermarket pedals (throttle pedal is shot) Use the Skybolt if the engine does indeed run or put the Flathead in there for the time being.

        Any Thoughts?
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        Current Automotive Technology Student @ Pittsburg State University

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        • #19
          Please note that the "Serial Number" you posted, is the BODY Type and Body Line Number, NOT the Car Serial Number for Registration.

          Look on the Driver's Door Post for the correct Serial Number that must match the "VIN Number" on the Title.

          Good buy, it probably just needs a Carter Model "AS" 1962 Lark One Barrel Carb. to get it running.

          The Carter RBS (Studebaker & Rambler) it has, is notoriously Poor.
          A few standard "Checks" for Fuel and Spark may isolate the problem with the Engine.

          I notice the tiny almost unreadable print on that copy of the prior seller's AD says: "Runs Great, everything works" so several things were "Fixed".
          I see that it still needs 2 more #57TR (Transparent Red) or modern crossover # Instrument Light Bulbs in the Speedometer, probably not your biggest issue!

          Gas Pedals are available New and Used also correct stock Clutch and Brake Assemblies from Member's Parts Cars.

          They hang from a Dash Brace "Beam" from the Firewall to the Dash of 1961 to 1964 Larks and Lark Types, one cross shaft & Pedals setup for all Manual Transmissions the Other for Automatic, a few details even cross over from Std. to Auto.

          You MAY not be aware, Studebaker almost never threw ALL of their excess Parts of any given type away as the "Other" Auto Co's. did, so there are amazing amounts of NOS Factory Parts left in South Bend and all over the Country, from their Huge Nationwide Warehouses and Dealer Stock.
          So very few Mechanical Parts are unavailable.

          http://studebakervendors.com
          Last edited by StudeRich; 01-31-2017, 02:20 PM.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

          Comment


          • #20
            I'd love to get all the parts from someones parts car. Aftermarket pedals and linkages are kind of a backup plan for when I can't get parts from someone.

            Does Anyone have a parts car that would have the pedal assembly? I live in Dallas TX but willing to make a road-trip out of it.

            The Older Flathead engine has an AS carburetor. New Car has the RB. So I'll just swap that out.

            64S1305=VIN
            Current Automotive Technology Student @ Pittsburg State University

            Comment


            • #21
              I got the OHV 6 Engine Running!

              Transmission will not go into gear. So it needs a rebuild or replacement. I'm going to try and find replacement parts for it, and rebuild it.
              Current Automotive Technology Student @ Pittsburg State University

              Comment


              • #22
                Notice: Most of our vendors can put you on to owners who still have loads of 6 cylinder drivetrain stuff (good) and cheap if not free. To most of us in hilly country.. they're boat anchors. Ask. They're all around...

                Comment


                • #23
                  Congrats on your new car!

                  Don't let modifying or replacing with parts from another brand be your first plan of action.

                  There are gobs of parts, parts vendors, and parts cars out there and it is MUCH easier to repair replace with stock parts than to cobble up something from another brand of car. After you get the car running, then you can decide what mods to make.

                  You should buy the body parts book and the chassis parts book. They have illustrations of all parts, where they go, how they fit with the other parts, their correct name and their part number. All of the Studebaker vendors use these part numbers.

                  And there are a lot of Studebaker vendors around, much more than for some other brands of cars. The catalog from Studebaker International includes many of these illustrations.

                  http://studebakervendors.com/
                  Last edited by RadioRoy; 02-01-2017, 07:54 PM.
                  RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                  17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                  10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                  10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                  4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                  5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                  56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                  60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Would this be a flight-0-matic Transmission?
                    Current Automotive Technology Student @ Pittsburg State University

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by ntreaster View Post
                      Would this be a flight-0-matic Transmission?
                      Yes it is.
                      RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                      17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                      10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                      10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                      4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                      5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                      56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                      60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by ntreaster View Post
                        Would this be a flight-0-matic Transmission?
                        Yes, but.........since it's a '64 six cylinder car, it is most likely the much lighter duty Model 35 Borg-Warner transmission. This transmission is significantly different than the cast iron Model 8 Flightomatic used with V8s, and in six cylinders up thru 1962. The exception would be if your '64 is a heavy duty-type (ie, police car, taxi, etc).

                        This transmission is not nearly as robust as the cast iron Model 8.

                        BTW, these transmissions don't like low fluid level, so make sure the fluid is checked per the correct method (engine running and foot on brake, move lever from neutral to low and back to neutral a couple of times; check fluid with engine still running and trans in park or neutral). If it is low, and adding some fluid allows it to engage, then drive it some to get the transmission fluid hot and recheck the level. Keep us informed of what you find.
                        Last edited by r1lark; 02-02-2017, 06:58 AM. Reason: added information on tranny fluid
                        Paul
                        Winston-Salem, NC
                        Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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                        • #27
                          Just to be clear, are you saying the transmission will not respond to shifting? Or...is the column shifter stuck and will not move?

                          In either case, you look to have scored a good buy and I hope your fresh eyes will offer the car a better chance of surviving than whatever discouragement caused the previous owner to part with it.
                          John Clary
                          Greer, SC

                          SDC member since 1975

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                          • #28
                            I put the pan back on and reinstalled the driveshaft. Filled the transmission to the dipstick line. I pulled her down into all the gears but nothing happened. When I start the car it has a nice metal to metal sound. Its properly toasted.

                            I'm going to go ahead and pull the engine/transmission in the coming weeks. I'll pull the transmission apart and inspect it. I'll see how motivated I am to rebuild this transmission. Using the links you guys gave me I think I have found a guide, and the source for parts. Its been a year or two since I sat through my transmission class.

                            Once the transmission it I'll have a better idea about rebuilding this, or swapping it for the Studebaker Manual that I have. I guess I'm more concerned about getting this thing out on the road, and having a bunch of fun with it instead of sweating all the details to keep it super original. Again I'll know how motivated I am once the engine/trans gets pulled, nothing has to be absolutely permanent.
                            Current Automotive Technology Student @ Pittsburg State University

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              read the above on how much you'll have to "chase" parts to go from auto to manual...! Your quickest way to get on the road is to ask around for any 6 banger tranny from 59-64 (66?). Can you see all the floor, frame, mountings, pedals & column/rods' workthat's involved ? If you go that route... you won't be driving your car for months.... just get a good, used auto tranny...even if you have to pay $100. for one and hit the road.....GL

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Quick Little Update:

                                Decided to Pull the Transmission and try and rebuild it. I'm currently working on reassembling the transmission. Hoping to have it reassembled by tomorrow and reinstall it over the weekend.

                                The car came with a "Flight-O-Matic" transmission according to the build sheet. But it's actually a Borg Warner Model 35 Aluminium transmission. I gave it the old magnet test. So I did order the build sheet, and I did order the Studebaker Repair Manual.

                                The previous owner botched the oil pan bolts, and cracked the housing. It's pretty ugly!!! I'm going to try and repair that as much as possible with a new bolt.

                                I also ordered a rebuild kit with all the clutches and seals and so on. It's been a learning process so far. I found a nice Borg Warner Model 35 Repair Manual document. It's been very helpful and in my opinion more useful than the repair manual. I have tried to be as methodical as possible, triple checking over and over again. I have been putting the vacuum cleaner to work pull little particles of dirt out of the assembly.

                                At this point I'm fairly optimistic this actually might work. But we all know the fun and frustration of a good project car!

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                                After Pulling Transmission

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                                After Taking Transmission to Car Wash
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                                Waiting Extension Housing Bushing from Studebaker International
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                                Part Number Tag worn off, or replaced.
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                                Model 35 Aluminium Housing Not The Damage From Previous Owner
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                                Current Stage, Reassembling from Rear Pump
                                Current Automotive Technology Student @ Pittsburg State University

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