Back on the road again....almost!

[wlfrench]

Took my GT off the road back in March to do a little work on her. Leaf springs and rear shocks, water pump and electric fuel pump. Back then I figured it would take me 4 to 6 weeks tops. Well, 7 months later I just finished all the work. I got her started and running Wednesday evening and thought, hot damn, I'm going to take her around the block for a ride. So I put her in gear and slowly start out down the driveway. First time she's moved from that spot in 7 months. So I go to put my foot on the brake before I get to the bottom of the driveway and..... NO BRAKES! I quickly grab the emergency brake and bring her to a stop before getting to the road and then back up the driveway to her spot. Now, I have to go through the brakes and with cold weather right around the corner. I guess the first thing is to check the master cylinder fluid level and start looking for leaks. What brake fluid does a 62 GT require?

[jclary]

Gosh...when my cars sit for over a couple of weeks, I try the brakes before the car is started. I have cut a circle in my original floor mats for quick and easy access to the master cylinder cover in the floor boards. If you use a razor knife, the cutout piece can be inserted back and hardly noticeable. Besides, I also use floor mats over the original. (same for carpet) I had rather my car not run than not stop. The very nature of the construction of these vintage brake cylinders (master & wheel cylinders) makes them prone to seep at least a little brake fluid around the rubber cup seals.

I'm amazed at the number of so-called restored vintage cars (Studebaker and others) that have patched floor boards covering and preventing access to the frame mounted master cylinder. They are already hard enough to get to and fill. Failing to cut the access hole in a replacement floor pan is foolish.

But for you Wayne, I'm impressed by your excitement about getting your car back on the road! For me, the two most fun times for driving our vintage cars, is spring and fall. Either of these two seasons, on a bright sunny day, neither too hot, or cold, is the best time to hit the road and prove that "Studebaker invented COOL!"

Refill, bleed, and checkout those brakes. If you have not changed the fluid from the original type, DOT 3 will work great. Happy cruising.

[wlfrench]

DOT 3, thanks!

[jts359]

HI Do you know the history of your brake system ? If not then do what I do with every Studebaker I have ever owned Throw everything away and replace it all , That means steel and rubber lines , Replace or at least rebuild the Master and brake cylinders and don't forget the brake light switch they fail also. It maybe expensive but lets not think of what could happen , Ed

[wlfrench]

From the previous owners receipts I can tell that all 4 wheel cylinders were replaced along with the master cylinder. Don't know about the lines. I want to convert to a dual MC and front disc brakes. Next year maybe. Is there a way to add power brakes without using a hydrovac?

[jts359]

I would contact Jim Turner about the hydrovac question , I've installed a couple of his kits on Avantis , They fit and work well, Ed

[studeclunker]

Glad to hear you've got your car going again at least. Best of luck with the brakes.

[TWChamp]

DOT 3 would be original brake fluid, but on all my older cars I flush the entire system, do repairs as needed, and refill with DOT 5 silicone fluid.