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Quick Steering Arms on 53 - need shorter tie rods?

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  • Steering: Quick Steering Arms on 53 - need shorter tie rods?

    I recently got a set of quick steering arms for the 352 turn lock-to-lock steering on my '53 Coupe. When I was underneath there holding them up, it's apparent that I will need shorter tie rods. Last time I searched on here about this, I think I recall someone mentioning the Avanti tie rods are the correct length. Since finding a set of those is unlikely, does anyone have the actual correct length? Or can someone measure theirs?

    TIA
    -------------------
    Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I\'m one tough sumbiatch!

  • #2
    I see no reason why any '51 to '66 Pair of Tie Rods would actually be ANY different in Length!

    Lark, Hawk, Avanti, '53 Commander, they should all be the same because nothing in the Suspension/Steering System EVER changed.

    An Avanti uses the same ones as all the rest, the only difference is, during I believe the middle of 1963 Model Year they went to Long Forged Tie Rods with integral Rod Ends, a Coupling Sleeve and a Rod End on each side, instead of the earlier system of a Long Pipe with TWO Rod Ends on each side.

    You SHOULD be able to "adjust out" any Length difference when using the Quick Steer Arms as many others have done.
    Your Assembly process must be wrong?

    By the way, you do mean you had 3 1/2 Turns lock to lock not 352, right? Or was that supposed to be a joke?

    By the way, if you have no Power Steering, you will need a 3 Foot Breaker Bar on your Steering Wheel to actually TURN the wheels!
    Last edited by StudeRich; 12-29-2016, 08:44 PM.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

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    • #3
      As Studerich says, there should be enough adjustment for them to fit. The Avanti rods and ends are available: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50001003a
      But without power steering you better get your arms and shoulders in shape, especially with newer wider tires.

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      • #4
        I installed quick steering arms on wifes '57 silver hawk and no mod's needed. did same on 53 coupe and front end shop said i need to shorten tie rods! not sure whats going on. 23.5 is length of normal tie rod assy. c to c. will measure 57 when it warms up. Luck Doofus

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        • #5
          If you look at the tie rods angle as assembled on the car, then look at the new quick steering arms, they are in effect shorter in length.
          This will pull in the attachment point of the tie rods. Doing this will lessen the angle in the as assembled state.

          All that is to say, the tie rods will need to be shortened after installing the quick steering arms. But I'd guess (I could be wrong)..that the adjustment in each end of the tie rods should be enough that no actual "cutting" is required.

          I've got a set of quick arms also, just hadn't planned to put them in till I drive the wagon a little after its major rebuild. I've got later spindle uprights (more caster and will lower the front a little) and the quick steering arms to install.

          Mike

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          • #6
            Got under 57 after Walmart run, both sides measure 23 1/2in. on grease fitting, as they are centered in tie rod end. first assy i measured must have been off now to check the 53, Luck Doofus

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            • #7
              As several others have mentioned, you should be able to adjust the tie rods without any issues. Even with power steering, mine is hard turning when stopped. Maybe it's because of those 245/50/16s on 8" wheels.... A word of advice, when you replace the steering arms, make sure you have access to a GOOD air hammer, you will save your arms, a bunch of time and a lot of cuss words. I spent about 45 minutes banging on one side, finally grabbed my Snap-On HD air hammer and they both came off in about 30 seconds.

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              • #8
                Some useful instructions come with the quick steering arms. All types of Studebaker tie rods & tie rod ends have been used with them without issue.

                Chris.

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                • #9
                  People do some really strange things. What is the point? Gonna do gymkhana in 53 Studebaker? Hope you have incredible upper body strength.

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                  • #10
                    Jeffry -

                    Some people just don't like having to turn the steering wheel 720 degrees to go around a corner..!
                    As for upper body strength..!? I know people whine about installing power steering into their cars, but so far my Stude (heavy engine) Lark hasn't needed power steering. My 54 Stude powered wagon will have short arms on it before too long a time, I don't anticipate any problems on that car either.

                    Remember, "different strokes for differ....." It's one thing that makes the world go-round.

                    And yes, I do...anticipate making a lap or two with my 54 wagon around an Auto Cross course when it's on the road..! There's one set up a few times a year about 35 miles from my house.

                    Any more questions ?

                    Mike

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                    • #11
                      In addition to quicker steering, the shorter arms tighten up some of the inherent slop of the vintage bell crank steering lashup, making my Hawk a much more pleasant, secure feeling vehicle to drive at modern highway speeds. Other than parallel parking, this upgrade improves every aspect of Studebaker steering.

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                      • #12
                        The tie rods changed in mid 62. The mid 62 and up tie rods I believe have more adjustment travel built into them. The later style from any car model (not just Avantis) will certainly work with no modification when paired with quick steering arms. On the early (53 - 62) style, you may have to shorten the adjustment sleeve a little. It should still work. I have never used short arms on an early car but I would guess that a little off of each end of the tube would give you enough adjustment.
                        Last edited by jpepper; 12-31-2016, 12:09 PM. Reason: mistake
                        james r pepper

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 63 R2 Hawk View Post
                          In addition to quicker steering, the shorter arms tighten up some of the inherent slop of the vintage bell crank steering lashup, making my Hawk a much more pleasant, secure feeling vehicle to drive at modern highway speeds. Other than parallel parking, this upgrade improves every aspect of Studebaker steering.
                          Inherent slop? First time I have ever heard that! If you need tie rod ends or a center pivot rebuild, then fix them! As a Studebaker parts dealer, I have sold lots of sets of tie rods, and often have been told how much better the car feels after installing them. Many people won't replace a tie rod end until it is badly worn, but considering many of our Studebakers have 150,000 plus miles on them, with unknown lubrication frequency from previous owners, any end will have some wear.

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                          • #14
                            Thanks for all the input!

                            My other car is a '54 F100 - I understand parallel parking with 'armstrong' power steering. No issues. And yes, I don't care to turn the steering wheel 24 times to go around the corner.

                            So it seems opinions are mixed - some say early arms need to be shortened or may need to be shortened and others say it all bolts on...sure doesn't look like there's enough adjustment to my uncalibrated eyeball, but I guess I won't know until I try.

                            The air hammer is a good tip - was wondering how much fun they were going to be getting out!
                            -------------------
                            Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I\'m one tough sumbiatch!

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                            • #15
                              I've never had a tough time getting steering arms off. A couple good whacks with heavy hammer on the end of it. (as if you're trying to force it in deeper) The "seal" is broken and they tend to come out easier. Don't hammer on the threads unless you plan on recycling them when you're done.
                              sals54

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