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newbie here..39 commander

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  • newbie here..39 commander

    hi all, long time studebaker owner but first time posting here. Still trying to learn your site. I have owned my '39 commander since 1985...it runs great but it is not roadworthy. I want to fix the mechanicals and leave the body as it is. I would like to know the best places to get glass, rubber, clutch, tires, suspension parts, and wiring. I see so many vendors but unfamiliar with most. I hope folks here can save me some time and trouble. thanks

  • #2
    Mark, WELCOME!
    I would hope that you are already a member of the Studebaker Drivers Club,in which case you will be saving you time and trouble, already having access to the answers you seek.
    Being that your car is also a pre-war model, The Antique Studebaker Club caters to your needs.
    All the glass in your car is flat and can be cut by any reputable local auto glass shop. The rubber available from Valerie Hansen. With regard to wiring? Do you want simply safe and functional? Or do you want as original lacquer braided wire? Tires will depend on if you want modern radials that ride better or original type bias tires that may last longer but give a less pleasurable experience.
    More to the point, how do you plan to drive your Commander?
    And, if I haven't mentioned it yet, WE LOVE PICTURES!
    Brad Johnson,
    SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
    '56 Sky Hawk in process

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    • #3
      Click image for larger version

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      My plans for the car are for an occasional drive to work, local cruise-ins, or just a Sunday drive. It probably will never leave town unless it is towed. Budget is to be kept to a minimum. So much emphasis is on original patina these days that I can't see painting it at the moment...and any rust will probably stay too unless it makes sense to repair. I was thinking modern wire but in a pre-made harness for the car (no shortage of sparks under the dash at night!!). I have used painless and rebel harness's in the past (and may again) but I prefer a pre-made commander harness. The tires may need to be bias to save $$. Where should I look for general mechanical parts such as clutch and chassis wear items? Goal is get it safe and road worthy with not much emphasis on looks...the car itself has that covered!!!

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      • #4
        Do you need kingpins?

        - - - Updated - - -

        Also, nice looking commander! Looks very solid.
        Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
          Being that your car is also a pre-war model, The Antique Studebaker Club caters to your needs.
          Also check the AACA Forum ( Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne ) board. There is also a wealth of knowledge there.
          Never raise your hands to your children, it leaves your groin unprotected.- Red Buttons

          '63 Avanti R2
          '14 Boxster
          '64 GT Hawk R1 JT
          '37 Dictator Coupe
          '37 Dictator Coupe "slight custom"

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          • #6
            Valerie Hansen of Nashville should have the window and chassis rubber.

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            • #7
              For wiring:


              Robert Kapteyn

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              • #8
                Welcome and good too. Hear from you. I just got my 1938 Coupe back home after nearly 6 years. The costs to restore far exceeded the estimate that I had and finding restorers to follow through with what they promise is difficult. I used a local glass shop that came highly recommended but had lots of problems getting the glass to fit. Tom Lewis told me about Vintage glass USA 800-889-3826 and they really helped me out with fast, friendly, and reasonably priced service.
                If you've got sparks occurring under your dash - I would suggest you adress that first -I went with original reproduction from YnZ's yesterday's parts as several members suggested them and Larksworkers wasn't in business at that time --- great quality product and really great customer service but if your on a tight budget see if you can get a dash forward with modern wire and do the rear yourself as rear is very easy.
                Shocks are a real problem Apple Hydraulics is about the only option as they can rebuild yours but about $175 each but finding a usable shock is almost impossible.
                You can adapt Ford brakes for the master cylinder and rear ....Dave Thibeault can help you there - he advertises in Turning Wheels.
                What else do you need in the way of front end. I have some nos rubber bushings that were in some parts I got --- you could have them cheap and I do have one front used you can have for free. There are also some other 39 parts I got from a local you can have as he was kind enough to save them when he went the restro mod route.
                Given the way you have indicated I would fix the brakes first, then get the wiring and stay with existing glass and just use silicone or other sealer as it doesn't sound like you are going to be doing a bunch o f driving in the rain. PM me and I'll give you phone # and e-mail

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                • #9
                  thanks for all the input everyone...keep suggestions coming. The only "hot" wire now is from the battery to switch to coil...everything else is disconnected so I dont burn the car up. The front and rear glass is "smoked over" ...might can salvage the door glass, but all window rubber is toast. Master cylinder was sleeved about 10 years ago by whitepost, but I am afraid now the wheel cylinders will need sleeving. I hope there is not much needed on the front suspension as everything feels tight...hope all it needs is just a good clean up so it will take grease. However, the rubber bushings are almost non-existent.
                  T wallgamuth ....I will see what condition the kingpins are...they are the President style kingpin with the "knuckle" on the top.
                  Cowtown comm...I will PM you.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by rkapteyn View Post
                    For wiring:


                    Robert Kapteyn
                    Ditto on Lark Works, I just got a complete harness for my '53. It's a work of art for sure and they include wiring diagrams and every wire is labeled. They build for your specific car so no guess work for the install. The price cant be beat either imho.

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                    • #11
                      There are early and late 1939 Studebakers.
                      The front suspension was redesigned during the model year.
                      Early 1939 Commander and Presidents used the T88 transmission.
                      These transmissions were only used by Graham and Studebaker.
                      Parts are hard to find for this T88 trans.
                      To lower the hump in the front floor , Borg Warner designed a transmission that laid in its side. 1938 and early 1939 cars used these.
                      The shocks for the early Commander and Presidents were different between early and late cars. Late car shocks are easier to find.
                      There are many small differences.
                      Robert Kapteyn
                      Last edited by rkapteyn; 11-08-2016, 04:38 PM.

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                      • #12
                        has any folks on here posted the procedure for taking apart the upper kingpin support arm and replacing the rubber bushings on a late '39 commander? is it a straight forward procedure? any issues getting it apart or getting the bolt off of the end?

                        Anyone know where to get the spring link inner rubber bushings?

                        Which specific years on the Ford front wheel brake cylinder is used? Any pics of the mod to make the piston work?

                        there are 6 tie rod ends...any reason there are 6 part numbers?

                        t walgamuth...I got the kingpins out and they have minor wear... about .002". I am going to try new lower bushings and after reaming/honing the ID to fit, I believe it will give me an acceptable clearance. I may even try to "groove" the bushing to help the grease flow in it better.
                        Last edited by fh4ever; 11-22-2016, 05:53 PM.

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                        • #13
                          I have a NOS wiring harness at a substantial savings over a repro.

                          YOUR ONLINE SOURCE FOR STUDEBAKER-PACKARD CARS & TRUCKS PARTS FROM COLLECTOR CAR SPECIALIST AND AFICIONADO AND STUDEBAKER EXPERT AND SDC MEMBER BARRY HACKNEY.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by fh4ever View Post
                            has any folks on here posted the procedure for taking apart the upper kingpin support arm and replacing the rubber bushings on a late '39 commander? is it a straight forward procedure? any issues getting it apart or getting the bolt off of the end?

                            Anyone know where to get the spring link inner rubber bushings?

                            Which specific years on the Ford front wheel brake cylinder is used? Any pics of the mod to make the piston work?

                            there are 6 tie rod ends...any reason there are 6 part numbers?

                            t walgamuth...I got the kingpins out and they have minor wear... about .002". I am going to try new lower bushings and after reaming/honing the ID to fit, I believe it will give me an acceptable clearance. I may even try to "groove" the bushing to help the grease flow in it better.
                            Cool! Let me know if you need some.
                            Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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                            • #15
                              I have the front suspension completely apart now. The upper support arm was no issue getting it apart.
                              Everything is cleaned and painted and ready for the new parts.

                              t walgamuth... I now have the lower kingpin bushings in, honed to fit, and they feel good. I even grooved the bushings to help the grease flow in it better.
                              TX Rebel....PM
                              me with more info on the wiring harness.

                              Anyone know where to get the
                              191393 spring link inner rubber bushings?

                              Which specific years on the Ford front wheel brake cylinder is used? Any pics of the mod to make the piston work?

                              thanks
                              mark





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