Fuel sender & drip rails

[jrlemke]

Does anybody know what type of lube I can use to lub my fuel sender? It works by hand, but it is very stiff. I put a little lite oil on the pivot pins and it freed up a little but it still sticks at about 1/2 tank. Also, how do the chrome drip rail covers come off? I have a '61 Hawk. Thanks-Jim

[5brown1]

The drip rails will come off if you use an old fashioned beer bottle opener. The will have a pointed end for opening cans also. They look like the modern paint can opener which will not work. Mine is a Hamm's Beer model.
Slowly and carefully is the key.

[StudeRich]

It is best to NOT try removing those Stainless Steel Drip Rail Mouldings. More people than not have ruined them.

Mask them off for repaints and move on.

Can you imagine what a pain it would be to SHIP those things, IF you could find them?

[56Golden]

<snbip> Mine is a Hamm's Beer model.

But ...that model only works in the ...Land of Sky Blue Waters

[Warren Webb]

Do not use a bottle opener on the drip rail moldings! You will dent them up for sure. I would listen to Rich's suggestion & mask them off for a repaint. If you are so insisting on removing them, start at the front & with a putty knife work the lower edge upwards the very slowly move it to the back. I would have a helper hold the molding as it comes off. Doing so even if they did not get dented you will most likely put a "curve" into them so putting them back on may be even more of a challenge.

[TWChamp]

I also agree with Rich on the stainless trim.

I can't imagine any kind of lube on the fuel sender, since it sets in gasoline. The gas is the lube. Just be sure the float is good and stands up to corn crap gas.

[5brown1]

I want to say that I DID remove the stainless drip moldings on my Speedster and using the beer bottle opener did not damage or dent anything. I did forget to mention putting some masking tape on the end of the tool. As I said slowly and carefully. And Yes, I am in the Land of Sky Blue Waters.