Does anybody know what type of lube I can use to lub my fuel sender? It works by hand, but it is very stiff. I put a little lite oil on the pivot pins and it freed up a little but it still sticks at about 1/2 tank. Also, how do the chrome drip rail covers come off? I have a '61 Hawk. Thanks-Jim
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Fuel sender & drip rails
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The drip rails will come off if you use an old fashioned beer bottle opener. The will have a pointed end for opening cans also. They look like the modern paint can opener which will not work. Mine is a Hamm's Beer model.
Slowly and carefully is the key.
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It is best to NOT try removing those Stainless Steel Drip Rail Mouldings. More people than not have ruined them.
Mask them off for repaints and move on.
Can you imagine what a pain it would be to SHIP those things, IF you could find them?StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Do not use a bottle opener on the drip rail moldings! You will dent them up for sure. I would listen to Rich's suggestion & mask them off for a repaint. If you are so insisting on removing them, start at the front & with a putty knife work the lower edge upwards the very slowly move it to the back. I would have a helper hold the molding as it comes off. Doing so even if they did not get dented you will most likely put a "curve" into them so putting them back on may be even more of a challenge.59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
64 Zip Van
66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
66 Cruiser V-8 auto
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I want to say that I DID remove the stainless drip moldings on my Speedster and using the beer bottle opener did not damage or dent anything. I did forget to mention putting some masking tape on the end of the tool. As I said slowly and carefully. And Yes, I am in the Land of Sky Blue Waters.
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