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  • Body / Glass: Water Leaks 62 GT

    I am getting water coming in past the door seals at the front top of the doors on my 62 GT. Here are pics of the door seals and if you'll notice the driver's side is much higher up than the passenger side. The driver's side leaks worse but both sides do leak. The main door seals are fairly new, not cracked and look to be in the right place.
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ID:	1751855 Do these seals look to be correct and in the right place? The water runs in the front and down the wind lace to the carpet at the bottom of the door post. Anyone had similar problems? Suggestions?

  • #2
    I have never seen a K bodied Stude that did not leak in those areas. I have learned to avoid rain when feasible, which is hard to do here in KY. I dry them out ASAP if the carpets get soaked. I set a dehumidifier on the front seat, run the electrical cord out the wind glass, and leave it there for a few days. After a few days, it will be as dry as the desert inside the car, including the carpet, but usually need to empty the water tank a couple of times on the dehumidifier. I also open the trunk and set a fan in front of it, same time the dehumidifier is working on the inside, because I have yet to see a waterproof trunk either. I also use indoor/outdoor carpet, cut to correct patern, inside the trunk.

    If you are able to seal yours up watertight, please let us know how you did it

    Comment


    • #3
      You need to get a copy of Service Bulletin No. 366, dated May 1962 covering Gran Turismo Body Information and Body Water Leak Diagnosis. 14 pages of very specific information. Lots of pictures, too.

      Comment


      • #4
        Neither seal is high enough.

        Chris.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Studebakercenteroforegon View Post
          You need to get a copy of Service Bulletin No. 366, dated May 1962 covering Gran Turismo Body Information and Body Water Leak Diagnosis. 14 pages of very specific information. Lots of pictures, too.
          Good luck with that. LOL

          Comment


          • #6
            Kati, if you have a phone that can receive a text photo, send me your cell number by PM and I'll send you a photo of the correct position of the gasket that is too low. I'm not home and don't have access to my photos to attach through Photobucket. I think the factory design of the gasket system is marginal at best. If you take me up on this, it still be several hours to respond as I'm leaving for a day trip and won't be back for several hours. Plus, I'm in Italy and there is a nine hour difference in time.
            Perry
            \'50 Business Champion
            \'50 Starlight Champion
            \'60 Lark Convertible,
            \'63 GT R1,
            \'67 Triumph TR4A

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by fpstude View Post
              Kati, if you have a phone that can receive a text photo, send me your cell number by PM and I'll send you a photo of the correct position of the gasket that is too low. I'm not home and don't have access to my photos to attach through Photobucket. I think the factory design of the gasket system is marginal at best. If you take me up on this, it still be several hours to respond as I'm leaving for a day trip and won't be back for several hours. Plus, I'm in Italy and there is a nine hour difference in time.
              PM sent... thanks!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                I have never seen a K bodied Stude that did not leak in those areas. I have learned to avoid rain when feasible, which is hard to do here in KY. I dry them out ASAP if the carpets get soaked. I set a dehumidifier on the front seat, run the electrical cord out the wind glass, and leave it there for a few days. After a few days, it will be as dry as the desert inside the car, including the carpet, but usually need to empty the water tank a couple of times on the dehumidifier. I also open the trunk and set a fan in front of it, same time the dehumidifier is working on the inside, because I have yet to see a waterproof trunk either. I also use indoor/outdoor carpet, cut to correct patern, inside the trunk.

                If you are able to seal yours up watertight, please let us know how you did it
                Originally posted by Studebakercenteroforegon View Post
                You need to get a copy of Service Bulletin No. 366, dated May 1962 covering Gran Turismo Body Information and Body Water Leak Diagnosis. 14 pages of very specific information. Lots of pictures, too.
                Originally posted by stude dude View Post
                Neither seal is high enough.

                Chris.
                Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                Good luck with that. LOL
                I figured this was likely a common problem. I'll try adjusting the seals as suggested and will keep trying to avoid the rain and dry it out if I cant.. LOL Believe it or not the trunk stays completely dry so I guess it's not all bad! Thanks ...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Kevin, Joe's right: the water leaks can't be eliminated on a GT Hawk. Studebaker probably put out the technical bullletin in 1962 because of all the complaints to dealers. Regardless, the 63s and 64s leaked just as much. That's one of the reasons the floors rusted so badly. Its very difficult to get a wet carpet and jute backing to dry without removing it. Dan

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ivorydan View Post
                    Kevin, Joe's right: the water leaks can't be eliminated on a GT Hawk. Studebaker probably put out the technical bullletin in 1962 because of all the complaints to dealers. Regardless, the 63s and 64s leaked just as much. That's one of the reasons the floors rusted so badly. Its very difficult to get a wet carpet and jute backing to dry without removing it. Dan
                    Dan, yes I am sensing that this is totally true. I try my darndest to stay out of the rain but occasionally the carpets get wet. I've been able to lift it up and dry most of it with a hair dryer and then leave a fan blowing on it over night and seems to do the trick. If this is the worst issue I have to deal with I am quite OK with that! Thanks...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Kato View Post
                      I figured this was likely a common problem. I'll try adjusting the seals as suggested and will keep trying to avoid the rain and dry it out if I cant.. LOL Believe it or not the trunk stays completely dry so I guess it's not all bad! Thanks ...
                      Well there are some nicely restored GT Hawks in our part of the work that don't leak! And we get some pretty heavy rain in Brisbane.

                      Lots of variables here; quality of reproduction rubbers, panel alignment, types of sealers and adhesives used, and mostly seals not fitted correctly/not supplied in rubber kits/not even known about......

                      The OP shows photos of seals not in the correct position. The upper part of those seals sits on the forward ledge of painted door panel just forward of the quarter vent frame, with the inner part of that lip slipped under the stainless mould.

                      Also, the front door seals (on body) from the base of the windshield pillar-to-sill are often a bit under-size in cross section, or the moulded upper end is not correctly located. And if your doors have more than a couple of medium size spacers between door & door hinge you are at the very limits of panel-to-seal contact. Some instructions & photos need to be supplied with K-body rubber kits.

                      Chris.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by stude dude View Post
                        Well there are some nicely restored GT Hawks in our part of the work that don't leak! And we get some pretty heavy rain in Brisbane.

                        Lots of variables here; quality of reproduction rubbers, panel alignment, types of sealers and adhesives used, and mostly seals not fitted correctly/not supplied in rubber kits/not even known about......

                        The OP shows photos of seals not in the correct position. The upper part of those seals sits on the forward ledge of painted door panel just forward of the quarter vent frame, with the inner part of that lip slipped under the stainless mould.

                        Also, the front door seals (on body) from the base of the windshield pillar-to-sill are often a bit under-size in cross section, or the moulded upper end is not correctly located. And if your doors have more than a couple of medium size spacers between door & door hinge you are at the very limits of panel-to-seal contact. Some instructions & photos need to be supplied with K-body rubber kits.

                        Chris.
                        Chris,
                        Is there a supplier you can recommend who sells the rubber kits? The seals all look to be somewhat recently replaced but as you say if they were incorrectly installed or of poor quality it doesn't matter how new they are!
                        There doors are fairly well aligned although the driver's side could probably use new hinge pins as there is some wear and it does leak worse on that side but, both sides leak! No spacers present that I can see. Thanks!

                        Kevin (aka Kato)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Things you can do to minimize damage of leaking in (all) 'K body Studes, in prolonged, heavy rain: Avoid drive-through car washes; avoid parking outside; use a car cover if parked outside; insure door & window seals are pliable and correctly placed; insure front fender vent (miscellaneous) seals are pliable, and the vent doors close tightly against their seals; keep the drain slits in the doors and rear quarters open/free of debris (use a hacksaw blade); keep the drain holes open in the rear passenger foot-wells (so water won't puddle there); roll up the rear quarter windows tightly, and caulk them in place (also makes the heater & AC work better). If you live in the desert, and get caught in a deluge, it will dry itself in a week or so. If not in the desert, dry it out ASAP after it gets wet (a portable dehumidifier, in a few days, will even dry soaked jute backed carpet).

                          For your mental health and wallet: accept that your 'K' body Stude WILL leak in prolonged, heavy rain whether sitting or moving. It does not mean you are negligent, or a bad person. Trying to stop it from leaking will only lead to frustration, and diarrhea of your wallet. Most folks here are not likely to get their 'K' body Studes wet more than once or twice a year, so the problem is pretty much moot anyway. If it should happen to get wet, just break out the dehumidifier
                          Last edited by JoeHall; 10-02-2016, 06:43 AM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Kato View Post
                            Chris,
                            Is there a supplier you can recommend who sells the rubber kits? The seals all look to be somewhat recently replaced but as you say if they were incorrectly installed or of poor quality it doesn't matter how new they are!
                            There doors are fairly well aligned although the driver's side could probably use new hinge pins as there is some wear and it does leak worse on that side but, both sides leak! No spacers present that I can see. Thanks!

                            Kevin (aka Kato)
                            Hi Ken,

                            Buying a complete kit at this stage is probably not necessary. If the seals look good (they look new to me) lets try to get them all fitted correctly and go from there. I'm happy to go through the whole car with you step by step if needed. It may result in some detailed K-body instructions that can then be shared.

                            If you are not sure about the position of these 'dagger' seals I can email you some photos. Some other issues with K rubber kits that come to mind (its after midnight here) -

                            - No seals under the 3 chrome cowl mouldings. There are 5 holes on the body here (excluding the leather wiper pivot seals) and these are not in the kits. A real easy way to get your feet wet.
                            - There are 7 grommets needed for the rear upper stone tray panel, only 5 are supplied in kits. A minor issue but annoying.
                            - The trunk seal with the moulded corners is well made but many of the earlier produced seals were cut short so they were 'stretched' and glued. That problem has since been resolved but we have noticed there is a lot of variation in the depth of the channel that the rubber seals glue into. We have had to lay a strip of rubber in the channels of cars that had sections that were too deep for the seal lip to make contact with the underside of the trunk lid. This makes a huge difference.
                            - The front of door seals down the pillar (303928-29), the mould has change in recent years. The upper moulded piece is an improvement but needs to be partly slipped under the stainless pillar trim and fixed with glue and a screw (as factory fitted). The lower length of extruded weatherstrip is under-size or too low density when compared to original seals. As doors are spaced out to align with fenders the same needs to be done with some seals. It is often necessary to build up the channel with rubber strips or cut and join an extruded length of weather strip of slightly larger section (which we stock).
                            - Front fender vent seals - too low density, they compress too easily and the door will not align with the fender. We have had to fit 2 seals per side, the N.O.S. ones are firmer.
                            - Hood front corner blocks, there are 2 different heights and part numbers, and there is a reason for this. We are being supplied one size for all.

                            There's about 10 other points I want to add that will point out some issues and corrections. Much of this relates to reproduction parts not being to spec, but there is also a lack of clear fitting instructions. This is critical when a new GT Hawk owner is trying to assemble a car after a repaint.

                            Chris.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              QUOTE: "No seals under the 3 chrome cowl mouldings. There are 5 holes on the body here (excluding the leather wiper pivot seals) and these are not in the kits. A real easy way to get your feet wet." END QUOTE.

                              Not only those moldings, several others on miscellaneous 'K' body Studes also leak: wiper arm bases; 53-55 cowl & door moldings; 55-58 roof halos, etc.. I have seen Studes with silicone or putty along the edges of moldings. Done carefully, it can behard to spot. However, to "properly" do the job, the various moldings should probably be removed.

                              Over the years, Stude used various kinds of fasteners for moldings: tin nuts with rubber liner; rawhide washers; self capturing nuts with rubber seal around the stud base, etc. Regardless of fastener, or molding location, if the rubber/leather has not been replaced in 50-60 years, they leak like sieves. Removal and slathering of the area around the base studs with high quality silicone works good. But replacement of the moldings, without disturbing the silicone, is often difficult, i.e. the cowl nut behind the glove compartment.

                              Door seals and fender vents are important, but so elementary, they are not worthy of comment here. Anyone who can not figure out how to install them properly should probably just take the car to someone who can.

                              All 'K' body Studes left the factory with fresh rubber, rawhide, etc., yet they still leaked. Rusty floorboards and rotted door panels are testament to their leakage over the years. With all the above freshly addressed today, they will still leak. Put another way, you can make them WATER RESISTANT, but not WATER PROOF.

                              Some modern autos also leak. We own a 2005 Honda Odyssey, and their tail gates are notorious for leaking, and making the cargo area carpet wet. With strategies above, I have reduced its' leaks, but have not eliminated them either.
                              Last edited by JoeHall; 10-02-2016, 08:53 AM.

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