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  • Interior: '64 Glove box?

    I need to replace the trim strip on my 1964 Commander glove box door. I have a NOS one to replace the rather beat up one that is on.
    The strip has some tabs on it, but I really can not see how to get to the old ones to take it off, and put the new tabs in to hold the new strip.
    Has anyone actually replaced one before, and can share how they did it?
    George Rohrbach
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  • #2
    George-
    Good question. I confronted this problem a number of years ago, and never really found a good answer. I could never find a way that would bend the tabs completely without also denting the trim. I ended up with a trim strip that is not quite tight against the glove box door pad. I believe the factory attached the trim to the pad, and then attached the pad to the door. My suggestion would be to use the tabs, but glue it on as well.
    Skip Lackie

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    • #3
      The aluminum trim attaches to rods behind the foam/vinyl pad. You have to gently remove the vinyl from the metal backing along the edges. With the pad off it is easy to unbend the aluminum tabs and remove the old piece. if you want to use vinyl dye to perk up the original vinyl cover, now is the time to do it. Push the tabs of the new aluminum trim through the pad and bend them over the steel rods. Gently pull the vinyl back over the metal backing and re-glue the edges. I use plain old contact cement. If the vinyl is stiff you can warm it with a heat gun but be careful to not melt the edges. Hope this helps. I've done a couple this way with good results.
      Neil

      1964 Daytona Convertible
      1964 Daytona Hardtop
      1962 Champ Truck
      1957 Golden Hawk

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      • #4
        Here's what I did. My aluminum piece was in bad shape so I cut all the way across the middle horizontally with a pair of side cutters. This allowed me to get to the tabs easily to unbend and remove the pieces.

        On the new piece of overlay, I curved the tabs at the top edge to hang in the top set of holes in the glove box door to hold the weight of the piece. I cut the bottom row of tabs a little shorter and left them straight. After hooking the piece in place, I glued in a few spots along the bottom to keep it from flopping outward when mounted. Seems to be holding up fine after a couple years.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the help! I ended up getting the top tabs pretty tight, and the bottom bent just enough to go into the holes. I then used double side tape, which was a thickness that extended just to the lip (actually was 2 pieces thick), close to the bottom spacer strip. It is nice and tight.
          George Rohrbach

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