horn

[jbjr]

My horn just blew on my 54 3R5 and the inspection is over due. What would be a good aftermarket horn to get?

[StudeRich]

Well if your horn Honked all by itself you just need to replace the wire through your Steering column.

However if "Blew" means it died, you can adjust the kind of Torx Head screw to see if that will help, also check the Horn Relay and the switch circuit by grounding the Terminal that connects to the wire to the Steering Box.

No aftermarket Horn is going to look like or perform like the Original, if you can find a 6 Volt one you will just have to deal with the different mounting and look of it, or search for a good used one.

[63t-cab]

Joe, go see Ted Jensen - bet He has something laying around.

My horn just blew on my 54 3R5 and the inspection is over due. What would be a good aftermarket horn to get?

[jbjr]

Ted does not have anything I already checked.

[jclary]

Well...if all you need is something to get you by a goofball inspection...just go to Walmart, get something that will make a racket, connect it to your horn wire and get the inspection. After that, you'll have plenty of time to pick up a Stude horn at your leisure.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

Only thing you will find at walmart is 12 volt. It will work on your 6 volt 54 but will not be as loud, might even be just a sickly squawk.

[TWChamp]

Give French Lake Auto Parts a call. I know they have early and mid 50's Studebaker horns. 320-286-2560

[Quentin]

A couple of horns from my cars gone by have suffered a slow demise (gradually sounding more and more pathetic ), rather than suddenly not working. Put power direct to the horn and see what happens. If you get standard noise, then it is your relay that needs replacing. The relays are readily available at SI.

[jclary]

Only thing you will find at walmart is 12 volt. It will work on your 6 volt 54 but will not be as loud, might even be just a sickly squawk.

I didn't read the post close enough....Of course, the horn would need to make enough noise. Fortunately, for me, our state did away with the sham inspection program. First of all, they found that the service stations were not following the rules. Lots of them were especially taking advantage of unsuspecting women by charging to adjust headlights, and claiming bogus repairs needed. The honest stations were claiming they lost money on the program, and then, full service gas stations began to disappear.

When the state investigated setting up state run inspection stations, it was determined that the expense exceeded reasonable benefit to be gained without a huge tax increase to fund the program. Although we no longer have a formal inspection here, all the regulations regarding the requirements to pass a safety inspection are still in effect. Inoperable horns, brake lights, turn signals, faulty brakes, bald tires, etc., can still get you a fine, car impounded, etc.

Here, we are free to keep goofy nanny state stickers from taking up space on our windshields. Instead...we can slap a SDC decal, or "STUDEBAKER" We invented COOL! decal in that space!

[jbjr]

No offence taken jclary, the real funny part is I went to a car show on Sunday here in Paling NY and took home my second trophy for best original truck as I was leaving I tried to toot the horn and nothing. When I got home to check it out I realized my inspection sticker was expired. I would like to keep it as original as possible and do not like the idea of an aftermarket horn but, I am stuck between a rock and a hard place.

[Lou Van Anne]

I need a "hi" for my 64 GT Hawk...any ideas out there?

[6hk71400]

Arizona did away with the state inspection program in 1965 for the same reasons John mentioned. I know how important keeping the truck original is but the hard place is the expired inspection. If you have a spot on the bottom of the truck dash, run wires to a mounted push button and then direct wires through a power source to an after market horn that will get you to pass the inspection. Afterward, remove everything after you have fixed the problem with the original.

As I say, just a thought of taking care of a problem. Hope this helps

Bob Miles
Tucson AZ
Home of 6 Volt Paradise

[jclary]

I was just having a little fun with the topic. But, once you check the fuse and relay, there are a couple of things to check on the horn before pronouncing it dead. Check the wire for missing/cracked insulation. It could be shorting to ground. Depending on the design of your particular horn, it might require removing the cover. I have repaired several. However, if the coil is burned, there's not much to do but replace it. If you try to move the "tone" adjuster, a tiny movement is usually all that's needed. Too much and you can break it.

[jbjr]

Just to let all who helped a friend had a horn from a car he had laying around and I jerry-rigged it to work to get by the inspection. I am going to look for a period correct one to put in my truck and use this one until then. Thanks for the help.

[63 R2 Hawk]

I need a "hi" for my 64 GT Hawk...any ideas out there?

I went through a couple of big boxes of Studebaker horns and didn't find a single hi note for a GT, they are mostly shot because of where they're mounted, down under the valence where they get the brunt of rain and road junk. I found plenty of working Lark style hi note horns and adapted one to the existing mount, works great and I didn't have to modify anything, in case I find a working GT replacement. Since the horns are riveted together, it's a major pain to reclock a Lark style to fit a GT Hawk.