Overdrive control 51 land cruiser

[ken-renda]

I am trying to start my brothers 1951 Land Cruiser and have question relating to over drive control. Car is not getting spark, does the overdrive have to be pushed in or will car start no matter position of overdrive. Also, when clutch is depressed to floor shift handle will not move. My brother might have installed some anti theft feature because battery cranks car but there is apparently no spark. Brother died in December and I would like to get car started prior to sale. Some years ago I had a 64 GT with overdrive and OD control would move in and out with no resistance and shift lever would move freely. Ken, not currently in Deltaville Va

[Commander Eddie]

Overdrive has no connection to starting the car so the lack of spark is related to something else. Depressing the clutch should not affect your ability to move the shift lever. That too is a different problem. I will leave further analysis of the possible culprits to the much more knowledgeable forum members who should weigh in shortly.

[StudeRich]

The O.D. Handle has nothing to do with the starting function.

If you do suspect a anti-theft device, look under the dash for a semi hidden a toggle switch or a series of them.
One trick is to have 5 or 6 of them and they work like a combination Lock, you have to remember if it is Two Forward and three reverse or what.

The best way to get it started is run a small wire 18 or 16 Ga. from the (-) negative battery post to the (-) Negative small Terminal on the Coil, be sure the trans is in Neutral, and crank the Starter. It will help to first prime the Carb. with 2 or 3 Tablespoons of fresh gas.

I am assuming that this is still an original Car with the 6 Volt Positive Ground System.

[jclary]

I doubt that the overdrive has any role in the car not starting. If it is still wired correctly, as from the factory, there is a "kick-down" circuit that involves the ignition wiring. However, it is only a switch that causes a momentary break in power giving the solenoid mechanical function time to retract. Once you are certain you have fuel, you need to make certain your electrical ignition wire to the coil, and from there to the distributor (points) is functioning properly. This includes making certain that the contacts on the points are clean, no corrosion, not burned, and properly gapped. Next, the condenser needs to be properly functioning, and its connection free of corrosion. Pull your main coil wire and clean it. I've seen them corrode to the point that the ends would not conduct. In addition, if you can come up with a small enough wire brush, it would be good to clean/ream down into the coil where that wire connects. Same with the coil wire connection into the top of the distributor cap.

I'm emphasizing "corrosion" because it is one of the most common problems with our old points style ignition systems. To me, corrosion seems to build worse on our old six volt systems. I have cleaned mine up to look and work perfect. Park the vehicle, and come back after leaving it sitting for a few weeks, to have to repeat the whole process again. As I write this, I have one in the barn needing the same thing. I have determined that it is not getting "spark." Now I've got to take the time to determine which component or connection is the source of the problem.

Sorry about your brother passing. I'm the only brother left of my Mom's three sons. If you lived close enough, I'd probably be all over the car attempting to help...if for nothing more than the challenge of solving the problem. Let us know what finally gets it going.

[52-fan]

As was said, don't worry about the overdrive. Cleaning/sanding the points would be a good first step and if that doesn't work take a meter and check for voltage at the switch. My 52 had been sitting for a while when I got it and cleaning the points was the main issue with getting it started.

[ken-renda]

Thanks, I'm currently at my brothers house w/o my assortment of tools and will be going back home in a few hours. The hope was that it was something simple so I may have to come back up and trailer it home to work on it. Before I leave, any thoughts on why OD handle will not go in and why shift leaver will not shift in "H" position. I and my brother learned to drive on 51 Land Cruiser and it has the original license plate from 1951. It has been sitting for several years, but battery was still good after charge. Ken

[StudeRich]

You will have to look under the Car for binding Shift Levers and O.D. Cable.
It is easy to eliminate the Cable as the problem by disconnecting it at the Trans. and push the Trans. O.D. Lever all the way Forward at the Stop to lock it out of O.D. that also removes any chance it will be left in forward gears and roll away!

You never know what you may find, he may have left one of the Shift Rods disconnected.

[52-fan]

While you're under there be sure to take note of the condition of the engine mounts. If the rubber is oil soaked and sagging it will cause misalignment and binding of the clutch and shift linkage.

[TWChamp]

As mentioned, most likely the points need to be cleaned. I Keep a small piece of sandpaper in my billfold for this purpose. Don't overlook rodent damage, such as wires chewed to pieces.

I'd spray some penetrating oil on the cables to free them up. I squirt motor oil on my cables about once a year. It sure makes them work better.