Fuel tank question

[RSykes]

I'm having my fuel tank cleaned. This outfit did the body sheet metal for me. Comes back looking like mill finish--very clean. Anyway, to line or not to line? I have two opinions on this; one "Yes," one "No." Argument for "Yes" is that today's fuels containing ethanol (sold everywhere in Ohio) draw moisture into the tank, of course, causing rust. Argument for "No" is that sometimes the lining doesn't hold and clogs the fuel system. i have one recommendation, if I line, for a product called RED-KOTE.

'64 Champ8E5

[jclary]

A few years ago, I had a motorcycle gas tank that had developed a leak. I discovered that a repair had been done before I bought the bike and repaired by using body filler and no sealer. Of course, eventually, the gas attacked the body filler. I investigated gas tank sealers and RED-KOTE was one of the major brands I remember seeing. At that time, the sealer industry seemed to be scrambling to solve the issue of ethanol performance degradation. At that time, there were reports of sealer failure as you describe. Hopefully, chemical formulations have improved to address the problem. I solved my issue by replacing the tank. My biggest issue was being patient to locate a replacement tank for a price I was willing to pay. For a Studebaker, that is probably an even more difficult task.

It is a subject we could all benefit from updated information. Thanks for posting it, and hopefully, this thread will elicit knowledge we can reference going forward.

[TrickyRick]

POR-15 is the "right stuff", but I prefer to not coat a tank.

[tim333]

I've used Red Kote on 2 tanks with no problems over 4 years.

[karterfred88]

Well from my experience, it's not the coating, lining material, that is so much the problem, as it is getting a perfectly coated surface inside the tank. It's almost impossible to slosh, twist, hold upside down and twirl the tank, to get a perfect coating inside. Any tiny flaw will allow rust to start, then spread under the coating and so starts the flaking. New car manufacturers have moved to various polymers to mold a tank from, to try and get past the alcohol problem. I guess it is the amount of "life" you expect to get out of the tank before you'll need to redo it. I think a coating will last longer than bare steel, but will never last forever. Each solution has good and bad results, like any other repair, you pick one and cross your fingers and hope for the best.

[RSykes]

Thanks, men. I'll think on it some more. Also, I've been pointed to a gentleman who has a rotisserie he built for doing this.

[StudeRich]

I think it is important to find out exactly WHAT your Vendor did to this tank.
What degree of surface roughness is present inside to know what adhesion to expect out of a coating.

Was the Tank "Rock Tumbled?

Is all of the original Galvanizing gone?

[RSykes]

Thanks. I'll ask the gas tank cleaner man the questions you suggest. Yep, no original galvanizing. Not rock tumbled. When parts are done, they look like new stamped metal before galvanzing.

[rockne10]

My radiator shop used Red-Kote® in the tank for my '53 nearly fifteen years ago and I have had no problem. Their cleaning procedure was obviously hot-tanking, as you would a radiator.
A partial list of additives that Red-Kote® is resistant to includes ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol, toluene, methyl tertiary butyl ether, isopropyl alcohol and tetraethyl lead.

Since then I have also utilized Caswell and Permatex® products on DIY projects. DIY is not difficult with any of these products if instructions are followed.
Just make certain the tank is positioned so residual sealant does not settle near orifices; and blow air IN TO the pick-up tubeevery few minutes during the initial curing to prevent the tube from becoming clogged.

[Corvanti]

as far as non-ethanol gas in Ohio, here's a list of stations for Ohio: http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=OH

idk if any are close to you but if cruising nearby, it may be good to fill the tank when possible. local general aviation airports usually have "good gas" - if they will let one fill up there.

i used the "Por-15 Kit on my Avanti with good results: http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tan...-Kit_p_62.html

[RSykes]

Thanks for the link to the gas vendors. There is one within twenty miles of me.

Rick

[TWChamp]

I just finished stripping the liner out of my 1950 Champion gas tank. My car was restored 22 years ago and they lined a tank that was mint inside. The liner kept coming off and plugging the fuel line, so last summer I removed the tank and mounted it to my small homemade cement mixer. I use 2 quarts of small lag bolts and set the tank on a 45* angle. I turned the tank about an hour clockwise, then another hour counterclockwise. Then I turned the tank over and repeated the process. Now it's spotless clean inside with every bit of liner gone.

I just finished reinstalling it, but was wondering if anyone knows what the original finish was on the exterior of the tank? Thanks, Tom

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

A "steel" fuel tank was made from "Ternplate" which was steel sheet coated with a lead/tin alloy.

[TWChamp]

A "steel" fuel tank was made from "Ternplate" which was steel sheet coated with a lead/tin alloy.

Many Studebakers had a heavy factory undercoating, so does this mean the tank didn't get the undercoating?

[JLB]

I coated the gas tank in my '63 Avanti 20 + years ago with a product from Bill Hirsch Auto, Newark ,N.J. and have had no problems. IMHO.......like all painting, it is all in the preparation. The easy part is applying the paint and in this case the coating. The hard part is the proper preparation........translation........no short cuts.