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  • Champ heater core

    I need a new heater core for my 63 Champ. Windshield is always fogged & the smell of antifreeze is pretty strong.
    SI lists one for a Lark but there are 2 choices of cores. Can anyone advise on the proper part number?
    Thanks in advance.
    RB

  • #2
    When looking under the Proper heading and Pg. (197) I only see ONE for '60-'64 Champ and '59-'60 Lark: Picture#33, 1695442.

    I usually have my Local Radiator Shop Re-core mine, the going price is only $200.00-$225.00, but I got 2 for $165.00 each 4 Months ago.

    Just make very sure that they measure or Photo the Mounting Brackets BEFORE disassembly, as the fit in the Box and Inner Fender is controlled by those and CRITICAL!
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

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    • #3
      Somewhere in my sketchy memory is the thought that your Champ was involved in some kind of accident a couple of years back. I wonder if the impact from that was the beginning of some small crack that went undetected from that accident. Have you removed your heater core yet? Now that it is spring,('cept for the defroster needed in humid Charleston) it is probably not as critical. Temporarily Bypass the heater connection, remove the core, and get it checked at a reputable radiator shop. It might only require a simple solder repair. Good luck.
      John Clary
      Greer, SC

      SDC member since 1975

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      • #4
        Thanks , Rich. I appreciate your vast Stude knowledge.

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        • #5
          Good memory, John. Yes the truck was smacked pretty hard about 3 years ago. I like the idea of bypassing the connection.
          Sadly the body shop that did the work has folded & their repairs & NOS bed panel is rusting away. Bedliner is separating & rust has started beneath.
          I'm thinking of approaching a trade school body shop for next semester for a possible class project.
          A reputable shop quoted 15k to get the truck right again. Yikes!

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          • #6
            Did the insurance company recommend the body shop that did the first repairs? If so I'd check with them (the insurance company). Most give a "lifetime" warranty on those repairs & if it was one of their shops they should stand behind it. That would take care of the rusting bed panel & bedliner problem. If it wasn't a shop on their "list' then they might pay for the heater core repair but don't hold your breath since it has been 3 years.
            59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
            60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
            61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
            62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
            62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
            62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
            63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
            63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
            64 Zip Van
            66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
            66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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            • #7
              take your core to a good radiator shop and they can re-fit with a brand new unit.... my last one (53' truck) was $205....

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              • #8
                Thanks guys. The body shop was recommended by an insurance co. that I discovered wasn't part of their network of lifetime warranty.
                Another lesson in life.

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                • #9
                  Well...I'll defer to "rbruner" since he lives in Charleston. But, I'm not very inclined to judge the body-shop too much at this point. After all, Charleston is a coastal city. Even if you don't live very close to the surf, the surf will come to you. Very early, in my teenage years, I recall visiting my uncles dealership lot in Charleston. I was horrified at the underhood rust already developing on brand new 1963 Fords that had only been on the lot for a few short weeks.

                  It has been my experience, (that no matter what coast) exposure to salt/brackish water, finds a way to attack any metallic constructed vehicle, regardless of the prestige of the name or value. Unless this body shop was specifically instructed to use epoxy primers on the bare metal, highest quality top coating, and extraordinary measures...three years before the attack of nature rears it head is about the norm. Remember, all that is needed, for rust and corrosion to gain a foothold, is one tiny crack to allow oxygen to work its magic as the catalyst to kick start the process.

                  Another thing about Charleston, constant humidity. Although it may not have the harsh winters of the north, it still has winter. There is enough temperature variation that all matter will expand and contract enough to cause seams and joints to vary. But the real "kicker" is humidity. A virtual "petri dish" for atmospheric mischief. If it ain't rustin'...it's corroding.
                  John Clary
                  Greer, SC

                  SDC member since 1975

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                  • #10
                    You got that right, John. Driving through brackish puddles has wreaked havoc on the rocker panels & door bottoms. It's now creeping into the fenders.
                    Guess it's the price you pay for living in paradise.

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