Windshield Seals for a 50 Champion

[fiveftsix]

Hi All,
Looking for a little help and advice from the pro`s on here
I`m about to fit a new tinted windshield in my 50 Champion
I have a new seal from SI but It`s not how I expected it to be
The seal corners are not formed or pre curved.
Are they all like that ?
Looks to me it will be a pain to fit !! as it keeps rolling off at the corners.
Also I read on here to fit the stainless trim to the seal before fitting the windshield but that doesn`t seem possible as with the trim fitted there`s no way I could see how you could pull out the lip over the body flange
Geoff

[TWChamp]

I haven't done a Studebaker windshield, but I did read that you remove and install them from INSIDE the car. Is this how you tried?

[fiveftsix]

I haven't done a Studebaker windshield, but I did read that you remove and install them from INSIDE the car. Is this how you tried?

I haven`t tried to fit it yet, but the old one is out and ready to fit the new one.
And yes it has to be fitted from the inside.
I can see this problem of the rubber corners causing hassle by keep rolling off the glass whilst trying even with taping the rubber to the glass, the corners pucker up both on the inside as well as the outside which makes it hard to seat the rubber in the body recess.
Geoff

[52-fan]

When you compare the new an old seals do they match? It is possible that you got the wrong seal.

[cstude1]

https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/html/pages/47-52wshld.html

[unclemiltie]

The reproductions do not have molded corners like the factory ones did. I had a new windshield installed in a 50 commander last year be an experienced glass man I used the repro gasket you have and it worked fine. The gaskets are the same for 47-52 cars with one piece windshield. There are two types. One with reveal molding and other without. The glass guy had a harder time getting the molding in then the glass itself. I believe all those repro windshield gaskets are supplied by one supplier

[old-idaho-iron]

Following this post, as I will be doing the same thing here soon I hope.

[48skyliner]

When I was removing the windshield in my 48, I noticed the stainless trim piece was not properly seated, with a noticeable "pucker" in some areas. I also noticed that virtually all of the customized or hot rodded cars had the plain rubber seals without the stainless trim. I just ordered the plain rubber seal from SI and it was installed with no difficulty.

Unless you take a knife and cut the rubber, it seems to me that it would be difficult if not impossible to remove the trim piece without bending it, and once it is stretched, I don't see how you could ever straighten it.

[rockne10]

The stainless trim can only be installed after the windshield is installed, and that trim is a bear of a project.

[royvaldez]

In time your rubber will fit around those corners. I had to wait a couple of months for them to fit. The sun will help with that

[fiveftsix]

Well being impatient as some of us are I bit the bullet and fitted the front glass with the help of the wife. a block of wood, rubber mallet and a 6x6 piece of ply !!
I was surprised how easy it went in.
Trick seems to be in my case is getting the lower rubber into the dash channel, that`s where the wood block came in handy on the outside.
I used the ply to tap the rubber home at the top on the inside.
However the corners puckered up so I hope your right Roy that they will lay flat over time although I can see on the outside the stainless trim will help there
And maybe once the inner trim is screwed back may deal with the lower inside corners.
Now the fun and games start putting that stainless back in !!!!!

I do think that it would be better if the corners were pre molded and a lot easier to put in too
Geoff

[fiveftsix]

And the other day I re-installed all the rear glass too.
Oh my Lord !!! a few choice words exited my mouth I can tell you !!! lol
And that was all with new seals.
I`m sure it would be impossible otherwise
Man oh Man I beat the crap out those rear glass rubbers with a rubber mallet the worse being the driver side middle and they were what came out.
Tight was an understatement, I can see why no one wants to chance the new replacement ones.
I originally was going to opt for the gray tinted to match the rest but chose to use tint film for the back instead.
I didn`t want to chance busting $400 + of new rears.

Next is to make some more replacement "T" nuts for the remainder of the rear garnish that had rusted away.
Geoff