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  • New wiring harness

    I plan on putting new wiring on my 57 Silver Hawk restoration project.
    I'm not really looking to replace as it was originally, but I want a more up to date system. By more up to date I mean I may want to add some other stuff to my car that it did not originally have--like air conditioning, an extra fan, tachometer ect etc. I will probably run the wiring a bit differently as well. Of all the things I will do to this car, this intimidates me the most. I am confident I will eventually figure it out though. There are many companies that will sell you a new wiring harness. Does anyone have any experiences, good or bad, with any of these manufacturers. Any suggestions on who would be the best to go with. As always Thanks-----Dan

  • #2
    Painless is great.. but a little pricey. They have harnesses that are very "customizable" (is that a word?) for additional componenets that you mention. Otherwise, the Stude vendors on this site have the actual harness for your car, just like the original, only with better insulation, color-coded to your wiring diagram. You would have to add the circuits for the additional equipment.

    Las Vegas, NV
    '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

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    • #3
      If authenticity is not an issue I recommend a Painless 18 circuit harness. I used it in my modified 1941 Champion. Every wire is marked every few inches as to where it goes and the instructions are great. No harness I know of would have the AC and tach wiring as they are most always included with those items.Not being a novice at this I can nevertheless tell you that it is not that intimitating once you get everything laid out. The harness costs in the neighborhood of $300.00 but was well worth it in my opinion. Others will have other opinions as to what to use but this is what I used.If you would rather have it be authentic I would say go with one of the Stude vendors's wares.

      Frank van Doorn
      1962 GT Hawk 4 speed
      1963 Daytona Conv
      1941 Champion R-2 Rod
      Frank van Doorn
      Omaha, Ne.
      1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
      1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
      1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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      • #4
        JUST TAG EACH WIRE AT EACH PLACE IT ATTACHES. Remove the old harness after tagging, I cut my harness at the fire wall. Label the new harness from the diagrams. Lay new harness and old harness out on a table, compare the two. If original wiring was altered that can be evaluated and planned on, then pull the new harness into the cabin via firewall. I removed all the dash components I could, this gave me room to work, with the front seat out it was not that bad.

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        • #5
          I'd just pull the dash and wiring harness as a unit and go from there. I've found that that is the easiest way to do it.

          Easiest of all is something like my '55 coupe where you can pull the gauge panel and wiring harness without pulling the dash, but most later model studes (yours included) will not work like that.

          nate

          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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          • #6
            You need to decide how many circuits you want to run first. The various companies will have fuse blocks that range from 6 circuits to 24. I helped a friend install an American Autowire Highway 15 system on their '53 Chebby. It's not hard, just time consuming. The wires are prelabeled and hooked up to the fuse panel. Two guys can knock it out over a weekend.

            You run the wiring and install the plugs after trimming the wires as necessary. It's not a concourse harness, but that's not what you're looking for. I plan on making a plug for the instrument cluster on my '64 so that I just need to disconnect one plug for all the gauges and switches.

            Planning is the only thing. Know what switches you are using and save your old connectors from the old harness just in case. Many places will also sell you generic switches for things like headlamps, brake lights, etc.

            Good luck.


            ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
            Tom - Valrico, FL

            1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $1755.45)

            Tom - Bradenton, FL

            1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
            1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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            • #7
              I've installed a couple from EZ Wire...

              At EZ Wiring, we strive to bring you the best wiring harness for the best price. Our harnesses are universal to fit any job.


              I believe electricity and wiring to be "magical" , but I had no trouble with EZ Wire. If I can do it, anybody can. [^]


              Dick Steinkamp
              Bellingham, WA

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              • #8
                Thanks to all!! Dan

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                • #9
                  If you're planning on adding additional accessories, I'd go with Painless rather than a model-specific harness. You'd be paying for 'correctness' you don't want, and in my experience they aren't all that correct anyway.


                  51 Commander State Sedan
                  Butler PA

                  51 Commander State Sedan
                  Butler PA

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                  • #10
                    This website is for sale! itsasnapwireandcable.com is your first and best source for all of the information you’re looking for. From general topics to more of what you would expect to find here, itsasnapwireandcable.com has it all. We hope you find what you are searching for!

                    Wiring Harnesses, Electric Fan Controls, Accessories, Grounding, Lighting, Switches, Fuel Injection Harnesses, Wiring Aids and More!

                    Official Site of Painless Performance, American Made wiring harnesses for your hot rod, street rod, muscle car, off-road and everything in between. Wire it once and wire it right with Painless.

                    http://www.ezwiring.com/ (I'm using this at about $200. for the whole car)

                    http://www.haywireinc.com/ (an excellent site for explanation and photos)
                    There are many ads and articles in the magazines of: National Street Rod Association (NSRA) and Goodguys.
                    Some of the people I street rod with simply use a harness from a later model wreck. Cheap but time consuming.
                    BRAD

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