Rescued Overhead Valve Six

[ntreaster]

Been waiting a very long time to finally be a Studebaker owner. I'm 22 and I'm in college, so having the money and space to work on a Studebaker has been quite the challenge. I made the decision to build a Studebaker engine, I'm a fan of the 6 cylinder champion engine. Most people seem to want to replace them with a Chevrolet 350.

I actually want to autocross a Studebaker Lark with a Flathead 6 cylinder engine. Slow car fast is better than fast car fast in my opinion.

I search craigslist on a regular basis for this specific engine, but everyone wants $200-$500 for a seized up engine that hasn't run in a very long time. Recently someone on the Studebaker Facebook page offered up the engine out of his 64' wagonair straight 6 (building a gasser with a 440 Mopar). He said If I came and got it, I could have it.

I live in Kansas, but the engine was in Indiana. I got my friend and decided to make a road-trip out of it. Despite staying in a very sketchy hotel in St. Louis we had an absolute blast. We did this trip on the cheap, I don't even have a truck. But we were very determined.

As for the engine its been seized for nearly 3 decades. It doesn't have a head or carb. I also did get the bell housing off of the Manuel transmission (someone else got the transmission). So I guess I'm officially a Studebaker Owner now

I have started the unseizing process with PB-Blaster and Marvel Mystery Oil. After I get it to rotate and clean it up I will check the deck for warping. wondering if anyone has this tolerance.

Wondering if anyone has a head for this engine sitting around? I hear these heads have a tendency to crack. There is a guy nearby who would sell me a head for $250 dollars, and he said they might be cracked. He also told me I could buy a complete engine for $500. For that price I feel like I could find a flathead.

Anyone know if there are any transmissions that bolt up to this engine? It appears this engine might be good parts for a Flathead 6. Wondering if they have the same crankshaft?

Anyone had alot of experience with the overhead valve? I'd be willing to build it if I can find a cylinder head.

Thanks for any help!

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

If you are going to be mixing and matching parts, recognize that a '54 and earlier six cylinder is quite a bit different than a '55 or newer engine. In 1955, not only was the crankshaft stroked to provide 185 cubic inches, but the main bearing size was enlarged considerably. Then, in 1959, when the displacement returned to 170 cubic inches, a new crankshaft and pistons were required to work in the modified block. So, very little interchanges internally between early and late 170 engines.

[PackardV8]

Congrats on taking the road less traveled. A 22-year-old going where wise men fear to tread is commendable. You'll learn much more doing it the hard way.

After I get it to rotate and clean it up I will check the deck for warping. wondering if anyone has this tolerance.

While the block is in the shop being cleaned, bored and honed, just have it decked. Won't cost that much more and you then know it's flat.

jack vines

[studeclunker]

Too bad you're in Kansas. I have another for you and it's complete. Ah well, maybe I'll just have to stop being lazy and refurbish it myself. Best of luck with your project. Reminds me of a Johnny Cash song.

[ntreaster]

They're always too far or too high priced! What do you plan to do with yours?

[Jeff T.]

If you do not mind a trip up the road to Nebraska. I have a bunch of ohv 6 parts from Larks that I have scrapped over the years that you can have, including a couple of heads, probably cracked, maybe not, I really don't know. I also have a homebuilt dual carb manifold that I built but needs that carb linkages finished. Send me a PM for contact info up here in Lincoln.

You might see if you can find a 185 crank from 1955-1958. more cubic inches, more torque. Just have the inside of the block machined so the rod ends do not wack the inside of the block.

Back when I was your age and on a near non-existant budget, a club member in Omaha gave me a salvageable ohv six that got my 62 Lark back on the road. Consider this a opportunity to pay it forward and de-clutter at the same time

Jeff T.

[Skybolt]

Anyone know if there are any transmissions that bolt up to this engine? It appears this engine might be good parts for a Flathead 6. Wondering if they have the same crankshaft?

Anyone had alot of experience with the overhead valve? I'd be willing to build it if I can find a cylinder head.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]50745[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50746[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50747[/ATTACH]

If you can acquire the engine plate from a truck, around the 60's, that was bolted to the OHV six, you can put a V8 transmission behind the OHV six. I have one and was going to put a Ford transmission behind my OHV six. I have since sold the OHV six and am sticking to the V8's. Alan has it at the moment and is going to get some dimensions so it can be reproduced. With it any conversion that people have done behind a Studebaker V8 can be used for the 6. At first I was going to use a Ford 3 speed from a 67 Mustang so I could keep the column shift but have synchromesh in first. As mentioned before I ended up going V8 so it got shelved.

If you can get the OHV sorted, with a good head, it is smoother to drive and a different experience than the Flathead 170. The thing I would be concerned about is if it is a true 64 it has that year only pistons and rings. If you rebuild it going back to earlier pistons might be easier and cheaper in the long run.

Do a thorough search on the forum for info and there have also been a few publications over the years about Studebaker 6's that are well worth reading.

Len

[PackardV8]

They're always too far or too high priced!

Already speaking like a true CASO!

If you can acquire the engine plate from a truck, around the 60's, that was bolted to the OHV six, you can put a V8 transmission behind the OHV six

Agree, the T86 is the ideal transmission for your build.

I was going to use a Ford 3 speed from a 67 Mustang so I could keep the column shift but have synchromesh in first.

Disagree, JMHO, but the wide-ratio-4-speed effect of the overdrive which allows a lower rear gear is much more desirable than the syncro low.

If you do not mind a trip up the road to Nebraska. I have a bunch of ohv 6 parts from Larks that I have scrapped over the years that you can have, including a couple of heads, probably cracked, maybe not, I really don't know. I also have a homebuilt dual carb manifold that I built but needs that carb linkages finished. Send me a PM for contact info up here in Lincoln.

You might see if you can find a 185 crank from 1955-1958. more cubic inches, more torque. Just have the inside of the block machined so the rod ends do not wack the inside of the block.

Back when I was your age and on a near non-existant budget, a club member in Omaha gave me a salvageable ohv six that got my 62 Lark back on the road. Consider this a opportunity to pay it forward and de-clutter at the same time

Jeff T.

Heckuva deal, Jeff! We all should do what we can to get some of the junk out of the hoard and get a young person in a Studebaker back on the road.

jack vines

[ntreaster]

Well this is exciting!

Lincoln is practically is my backyard, compared with Indiana.

I'll have to see if I can get that plate. That would be awesome if it was reproduced.

[Skybolt]

Disagree, JMHO, but the wide-ratio-4-speed effect of the overdrive which allows a lower rear gear is much more desirable than the syncro low.

jack vines

Past tense, "was". I picked up the Toploader 3 speed for $10 so it was just an idea. I did, however, acquired a Ford 4 speed Toploader overdrive which I believe is better than the Borg Warner 3 speed with overdrive. It may not have the possible 6 speeds of the Borg Warner but the driving experience is more controlled and I don't have to worry if I loan my car to someone that they trash my cluster gear and first.

Len

[Jeff T.]

I have the backing plate, 3 speed bellhousings and a couple T86s and a couple top shift units. Years ago I planned on bolting a top shifting T86 to an OHV 6 but life intruded after I collected all the parts.

[Chad Huth]

If you do not mind a trip up the road to Nebraska. I have a bunch of ohv 6 parts from Larks that I have scrapped over the years that you can have, including a couple of heads, probably cracked, maybe not, I really don't know. I also have a homebuilt dual carb manifold that I built but needs that carb linkages finished. Send me a PM for contact info up here in Lincoln.

You might see if you can find a 185 crank from 1955-1958. more cubic inches, more torque. Just have the inside of the block machined so the rod ends do not wack the inside of the block.

Back when I was your age and on a near non-existant budget, a club member in Omaha gave me a salvageable ohv six that got my 62 Lark back on the road. Consider this a opportunity to pay it forward and de-clutter at the same time

Jeff T.

Jeff T.,
I'd be interested in seeing a picture of your dual carb manifold. I'm working on one myself, along with a split exhaust. Thanks.

[WinM1895]

Past tense, "was". I picked up the Toploader 3 speed for $10 so it was just an idea.

I did, however, acquired a Ford 4 speed Toploader overdrive which I believe is better than the Borg Warner 3 speed with overdrive.

What the hell is this trans? AFAIK, FoMoCo never offered any such thing.

Type 3.03 is the Ford 3 speed with first gear syncro, Ford also used the BW T85N Overdrive in 1965/71 F100's.

[Alan]

Ford SROD 4 speed. used in 1980-83 Ford Mustang's and Mercury Capri's.

[Skybolt]

What the hell is this trans? AFAIK, FoMoCo never offered any such thing.

Type 3.03 is the Ford 3 speed with first gear syncro, Ford also used the BW T85N Overdrive in 1965/71 F100's.

It's not exactly an SROD as Alan mentioned as it came before those. SROD transmissions have an aluminum case. Mine is an iron case and looks just like a regular 4 speed Toploader but some of the internals have been moved around to make gears 1,2,3 basically the same gearing as a 3 speed with 3 being 1:1. 4th gear is then an overdrive.

http://www.5speeds.com/toploader.html

This is a basic history about the Toploader and derivatives. I use Toploaders as I like them and the overdrive model is not as strong as the regulars but strong enough for my purposes, apart from the fact I have swapped these in to Studebakers before and know how to do it.

Also this http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/imposters.htm
Len