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58 Hawk
01-06-2016, 02:43 PM
DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THERE IS A WAY TO HAVE A REPLACEMENT SERIAL NUMBER PLATE ON DOOR POST WITH THE CORRECT SERIAL NUMBER ON IT. i HAVE THE ORIGINAL ONE BUT IT WAS REMOVED AND REINSTALLED AND NC INSPECTIONS SAYS ITS A PROBLEM HAVEING THE HOLES IN ORIGINAL SERIAL PLATE
JUST WONDERING ?
JOE

Deaf Mute
01-06-2016, 03:05 PM
All states are different... but from the factory the Studebaker assembly personnel, screwed them into place. That is the way it was.
We have the same problem with VIN numbers and state registration... Studebaker "doesn't fit the mold", but neither do other makes of the time period.
When Iowa changed the format for their license plate renewal forms... my "STU" on the old form became "STEWART" on the new form & I had to prove to them what a Studebaker was.
(I hope that answers what I think your question was.)

BobPalma
01-06-2016, 03:13 PM
DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THERE IS A WAY TO HAVE A REPLACEMENT SERIAL NUMBER PLATE ON DOOR POST WITH THE CORRECT SERIAL NUMBER ON IT. i HAVE THE ORIGINAL ONE BUT IT WAS REMOVED AND REINSTALLED AND NC INSPECTIONS SAYS ITS A PROBLEM HAVING THE HOLES IN ORIGINAL SERIAL PLATE. JOE

:confused: Joe, by "holes," do you mean the little notches on either side of the serial number plate, or are there jagged holes in the plate where the factory spot welds were pulled apart? :o :cool: BP

swvalcon
01-06-2016, 03:45 PM
I'am sure he will reply to your post but there is a member from down under that is repoping the vin tags. If you get a new one I would just glue it on with 3-m metal glue. No one will ever know.

StudeRich
01-06-2016, 04:00 PM
All states are different... but from the factory the Studebaker assembly personnel, screwed them into place. That is the way it was.


Actually, the Serial Number plates on South Bend and Vernon (Los Angeles) built Cars were not permanently Screwed on.

The Engineering design was to notch the Plate on the side edges and drill the Door post for 2 screws to TEMPORARILY hold the plate and then use the 4 Dimples in the Door Post and the masked area in the Plate location to Electric Weld the Plate on with 2 to 4 Spot welds in those approximate locations.

What happened in Production, is they did not use the screws in most cases and just taped it on there any which way, and then Welded it. :(

58 Hawk: You may be looking at a State issued I.D. Number sticker to register that Car if NC uses them, NOT using it's original Serial Number, which you want to avoid if possible.

I doubt any "Replacement Plate" would Fly with your State Authorities!
Remember that most States inter your data in their System if you begin the Registration process, especially if they take your Money.

In that case they know you had a modified I.D. Plate, and any future attempts at registration will fail badly, and once they know you lied, you are REALLY Done! :mad:

58 Hawk
01-06-2016, 04:25 PM
there are some holes from where factory welded to door post then it was removed and the holes are there but when remounted there is rivets where the notch in on the sides
Joe

HAWK64
01-06-2016, 06:38 PM
I'am sure he will reply to your post but there is a member from down under that is repoping the vin tags. If you get a new one I would just glue it on with 3-m metal glue. No one will ever know.

Joe, the "down under" guy is Chris Skinner from Brisbane. Let me know if you need his contact details - Sir James.

63t-cab
01-06-2016, 07:14 PM
That's what I would prefer to do also,but would probably put a few resistance spot welds on the new plate for visual effects.


I'am sure he will reply to your post but there is a member from down under that is repoping the vin tags. If you get a new one I would just glue it on with 3-m metal glue. No one will ever know.

studegary
01-07-2016, 10:06 AM
I have used a thin double-stick tape to hold a new plate.

The problem with a new plate is getting the correct stamped numbers.

I would suggest using the original plate and filling the torn-in holes with braze or weld (better).

Warren Webb
01-07-2016, 11:00 AM
Screws will not pass any DMV inspection. Rivets were used but not your average run-of-the-mill type but rather a special rivet that has notched sides as were used in the last couple years of Hamilton production & also by other makes. We used that type when Isuzu made trucks were imported & badged as Chevrolet or GMC's before they were sent to dealers for sale. Those special rivets came in a package from GM along with all the required I.D. plates.

Since the plates are stainless steel brazing would not be acceptable plus the heat would warp the plate anyway.

swvalcon
01-07-2016, 12:08 PM
I think if you where to just glue it and not use any screws or rivets even with out the spot welds it would fly on 98% of the state inspections. You may find 2% that know there should be spot welds.

karterfred88
01-07-2016, 03:25 PM
NC seems to be a problem for most "antique vehicle" owners, looking at the Jalopy Journal forums. Maybe a photo of your serial plate and your door jamb might give us some ideas on how to make it "look" legal enough to get it done. Or maybe you'll need to hire an expert in NC titling to do it for you. If there is enough of the weld left on the post, you might be able to JB weld it back on.

Dwain G.
01-09-2016, 03:52 PM
If it were mine I would see if I could get a welder to fill the holes with stainless and make it look like a spot weld. Then make sure it is completely flat, polish it up, apply body panel adhesive to the back and stick it on, aligning it with the painted outline on the door jamb. Apply pressure from front to rear door jambs using a ratcheting clamp or 2X4, whatever, until adhesive is set.
Lastly, finish off with a new adhesive S-P label.

oilnsteel
01-09-2016, 04:00 PM
Make them crawl under the car and look at the secret serial number, to help prove there is nothing aberrant about the plate. A good cnc machine shop could duplicate the engraving, but that ,of course, would be illegal.

JT

55 56 PREZ 4D
03-07-2016, 02:20 AM
With a new plate in place, no matter how you install it, your inspections station may still question it.
Because it looks too new. oilnsteels suggestion to show the secret serial number on the frame is smart. But who says your inspections people are smart.
In California we are allowed to purchase original "year of manufacture" license plates for use on older cars.
People have had trouble registering them because they had them restored first then took them in to register. Better to register them first then have them restored.
D M V said they were new "reproductions" not originals and were illegal.

StudebakerGene
03-07-2016, 10:09 AM
I bought my 62 Champ P/U in Oregon in 2014, I was working in Hayward California and didn't want to transport it back to North Carolina until later, so I registered it in California first. There wasn't even a single little problem (except the fees, OMG they were astronomical.) Kept the truck there until November of 2015 and transported it back to North Carolina. I took my California title and truck to the Statesville NC. DMV for verification and the trooper checked that truck from stem to stern, he asked about my S/N plate and commented on the rather rough looking attachment. I guess he figured since it was O.K. in California, it had to be good. North Carolina ain't easy. My plates only cost $24 vs $1689 in California!

ddub
03-07-2016, 11:04 AM
Maybe the fact that CA collected $1689 has something to do with their easy acceptance!

StudebakerGene
03-07-2016, 11:21 AM
I actually had to have the truck weighed at some lumber yard before the California DMV would issue a tag, It did help that I had the production order sheet from the Museum as well when I showed up @ The N.C. DMV, although the trooper said it was the first Champ P/U he had ever inspected or seen--- he thought it was a "Rambler"!

StudeRich
03-07-2016, 12:30 PM
Most of that $1689.00 fee had to be the Calif. "Use Tax" based on value, not License fees. :ohmy:

StudebakerGene
03-07-2016, 12:37 PM
Correct Rich, They asked me what I paid for it and being an honest person I told them $12,500. They promptly assessed a 10% "Save California, Save the Dart snail" fee. I was O.K. with paying it. N.C. has no fee like that and no dart snails either!

bezhawk
03-07-2016, 07:21 PM
The plate is simple enough to make from stainless sheet metal. Any good trophy shop can engrave it , but they don't have the correct fonts usually. If you take the old one in and show them to it, then they might be able to reproduce the fonts for you. As long as you are replacing the tag with the same number, there shouldn't be problems. If the DMV isn't sure how they were attached, then you can dremmel some rivets to look like rosebud rivets.

JRoberts
03-07-2016, 08:32 PM
Two things:
I was told that Studebaker trucks serial number plates were screwed on. Is that correct?

My son is presently going through the process of getting his truck registered and titled in North Carolina. He was told that removing the serial number plate was a felony. If anyone has recently had an easy time getting an out of state classic vehicle titled in NC I would like to know how and where they have done it. It is an incredibly difficult task, that differs from county to county even though they use state regulations to do the job.

Mrs K Corbin
03-08-2016, 06:48 AM
My '50 2R5 has a screwed on plate, as well as my '58 3E7

Skip Lackie
03-08-2016, 07:04 AM
Most of those I've seen were screwed in place that spot welded in two places. The screws were left in place. The spot welds are pretty obvious, so it should be easy to tell if they are there or not.

wdills
03-08-2016, 07:17 AM
I have had 2 out of state Stude's titled in NC. One had a clear Texas Title, it was no problem at all. The DMV guy came out and did his inspection, filed his report and the Title was issued. The second car only had a bill of sale. I just had to buy a bond for about $120, get the same inspection and a temp title was issued. Three years later the permanent title was issued.

63t-cab
03-08-2016, 07:33 AM
Three Years later,man a lot can happen in that time.


I have had 2 out of state Stude's titled in NC. One had a clear Texas Title, it was no problem at all. The DMV guy came out and did his inspection, filed his report and the Title was issued. The second car only had a bill of sale. I just had to buy a bond for about $120, get the same inspection and a temp title was issued. Three years later the permanent title was issued.

Mrs K Corbin
03-10-2016, 06:29 AM
on my trucks, the screws come out, the plate comes off.

joncon
03-10-2016, 07:10 AM
If the DMV isn't sure how they were attached, then you can dremmel some rivets to look like rosebud rivets.

The rosebud rivets are easy to make. I restore 67-72 Gm pickups. The body plates on them are on the door jam near the rocker panel and held on with rosebud style rivets, the plate needs to be removed for proper paint/repair of that area.
You need stainless rivets of the proper size. Chuck them in a drill and tighten the chuck just enough to crimp the rivet, then turn the rivet to the non crimped part and crimp it also. I have done this on over fifty trucks and you can't tell from factory. I can't take credit for this as a man told me how to do this thirty or so years ago. Not all drills have the right kind of jaws to do this, you need the ones with pointed looking jaws vs concave style.