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View Full Version : Art Morrison built chassis to suit C/K



packardHawk58
12-06-2015, 03:53 AM
Just wondering if any members might have or know of any other Art Morrison built chassis' to suit C/K cars that might be being assembled or built?
I bought this one a while back with a 55 hardtop car and just looking down the track what might be involved to build it?
It had a bit of surface rust on it by the time it was freighted to me so I have just blasted it and etch primed it, beautifully made, takes Mustang II front end and 4 link 9" rear, perfect for a convertible C/K project!

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae194/packardhawk58/54%20Starliner/IMG_0526_zpspw7lzjyl.jpg (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/packardhawk58/media/54%20Starliner/IMG_0526_zpspw7lzjyl.jpg.html)
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae194/packardhawk58/54%20Starliner/IMG_0524_zpsh7zuvnsy.jpg (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/packardhawk58/media/54%20Starliner/IMG_0524_zpsh7zuvnsy.jpg.html)
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae194/packardhawk58/54%20Starliner/IMG_0527_zpsucjjyj2j.jpg (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/packardhawk58/media/54%20Starliner/IMG_0527_zpsucjjyj2j.jpg.html)

ProMetalShop
12-06-2015, 05:18 AM
I can't vouch for there chassis under the Stubaker, however Arts chassis are one of the most sought after, when looking for a quality chassis. It looks as though you have a nice one there. Did you get the triangulated four link bars with it also ? Was it a rolling chassis ? Just a pet peeve of mine, but although it's labeled as Mustang II there is very little left, other then the rack, which is also aftermarket. I see yours is a coil over front. You really got a nice chassis there.... Steve..

i aslo noticed the center mandrel bent tubes are only tacked in, I'm thinking for making it easy to remove or relocate for different drivetrain and locations.

clonelark
12-06-2015, 06:30 AM
I'm Jealous, I could sure use one of those. Good luck with your project. Looks like a great start.

sweetolbob
12-06-2015, 07:27 AM
ralt12 Kevin on the forum has one sweet "C" setting on a Morrison chassis. http://www.nelsonmotorsports.com/Nelson_Motorsports/Studebaker.html

Bob

swvalcon
12-06-2015, 09:09 AM
Not sure why they would have a wider kick out at the rear at the 4 link mount. Most times it narrows in at that point so you can add a shorter rear end and tubs. But the frame looks good and strong. Nice set up.

Dick Steinkamp
12-06-2015, 09:11 AM
Brian,
My buddy Keith Christensen was building that car. Keith is a machinist by trade and an excellent hot rod builder. I'm sure he had a detailed plan for that car that he could share with you. If you didn't buy it directly from him or have lost his contact info if you did, PM me and I can put you in contact with him.

BTW, here's one of his builds. It also went to Oz...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhNtNUDOLik

Mike Van Veghten
12-06-2015, 11:13 AM
swvalcon -

By the existing brackets, it's not really a "four link" as the term goes, it's a "triangulated" four link chassis. That's why the rear rails are so far apart. Though the upper bar mounts are visible, you can't see the lower bar mounts in the pictures.

The front is also not a true "Pinto/Mustang II" either. The upper arm mount is a much better setup (my opinion) than the original Ford version. The control arm itself is the adjuster for camber/caster.

Nice start there packard.

Mike

TrickyRick
12-06-2015, 07:50 PM
I have one also. I am trying to figure out how to mount the body. The factory had a crazy number of body mount points. Some of mine were lost during rust repairs.

Be prepared to rework the trunk floor to clear the rear shock crossmember.

I am also working out firewall mods for motor setback.

My cousin started this project and purchased a custom firewall kit, The kit had a dog house for the motor but it was not angled to match the the installed firewall and wound up with limited clearance at the top of the intake.

I sure hope the suspension is better than a Mustang because I plan to exercise it at the autocross. I am concerned about the short arm length.

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww101/rickb794/IMG_20130816_192319_911_zpsz86aam6e.jpg

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww101/rickb794/IMG_20130816_192209_228_zpsbiukuvdx.jpg

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww101/rickb794/IMG_20131129_155405_639_zpslvvukqmp.jpg

Had the body pickled and was pleased to not get back total swiss cheese.

Pete welded in new rockers and floors and the custom smooth firewall.

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww101/rickb794/20150618_201045_zpsnklix8kb.jpg

Body needs to come 2" forward and 1" down from here.

ProMetalShop
12-06-2015, 08:11 PM
Not looking to hijack a thread here, but here is a trunk pan I built for a customers Stude with one of my chassis underneath.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/prosheetmetal/Stude%20Gasser/4784D6AF-E94F-4C21-9371-727AD0A0AA74_zpsdjjjm1eb.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/prosheetmetal/media/Stude%20Gasser/4784D6AF-E94F-4C21-9371-727AD0A0AA74_zpsdjjjm1eb.jpg.html)

t walgamuth
12-06-2015, 09:39 PM
looks very good!

packardHawk58
12-07-2015, 04:23 AM
Steve, nice work on that trunk pan!
I still have to buy the triangulated 4 link bars from Art.
This is why I wanted to see a chassis rolling so I can get some idea what I need.

Bob, thanks for the link to Nelson Motorsport that is a really informative series of build photos.
I was surprised that a couple of chassis/projects appeared so quickly considering what he charges for this frame. How many made does anybody know?

Thanks Dick, I did buy the project from Keith with the help of Mike O'Handley doing the hard work for me on the deal.
I like the way you can drive down the road with no hood, doors and registration and not worry about being pinged by the coppers! Out here you couldn't go 20ft without being hauled into the slammer. Got to move to the US!

Rick, thanks for the photos, just what I needed to see.
I am doing a Hardtop body shell like yours, could I PM you with some questions?
Not going over the top with late model chev power like you guys, just a blown Studie engine with a o/drive trans.

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae194/packardhawk58/54%20Starliner/IMG_0534_zpssc09ac2m.jpg (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/packardhawk58/media/54%20Starliner/IMG_0534_zpssc09ac2m.jpg.html)

Captain Billy
12-07-2015, 05:56 AM
Also available from Arizona: Front and full frames with body mounting tabs

http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/?tag=studebaker

TrickyRick
12-07-2015, 07:08 AM
I am doing a Hardtop body shell like yours, could I PM you with some questions?


Certainly, but why not keep it in this thread for everyone's reference?

ProMetalShop
12-07-2015, 07:54 AM
On a few other sites that I administer, I stick the thread. And it is always there for later reference.
Packardhawk58, that is a very cool motor ! !

Dan Timberlake
12-07-2015, 09:40 AM
Morrison frames are pretty cool and "interesting" looking.
I need to do a little computer modeling to understand what the extra rails mounted inboard are contributing.

Have you weighed it?

Some of the crossmembers appear to be only tack welded. Have you compared to other Morrison frames to see if maybe it was still in construction?

sweetolbob
12-07-2015, 12:52 PM
On a few other sites that I administer, I stick the thread. And it is always there for later reference.
Packardhawk58, that is a very cool motor ! !

PMS, it looks like you do nice work. Would it be possible to have you post a few pictures of your efforts in a separate thread with a descriptive header. It could make finding them easier in the future and helpful to more people.

Bob

TrickyRick
12-07-2015, 08:35 PM
Morrison frames are pretty cool and "interesting" looking.
I need to do a little computer modeling to understand what the extra rails mounted inboard are contributing.

Have you weighed it?

Some of the crossmembers appear to be only tack welded. Have you compared to other Morrison frames to see if maybe it was still in construction?

Morison does not finish the front and rear crossmember so you can adjust as needed.

It probably weighs twice as much as an OEM frame, but it's 10 times less noodley!

packardHawk58
12-08-2015, 04:50 AM
Certainly, but why not keep it in this thread for everyone's reference?
Ok Rick or Steve, I have some questions for you.
What width is the 9" you used, flange to flange or axle face to axle face.
Tyre width on rear.
Backspace on your rims.
The triangulated 4 links, would I have to buy from Art?
Your lower and top arms
stub axles,
rotors and hubs
caliphers...I don't need Wilwood,
coil overs front...what size/weight to suit a C/K
coil overs rear
steering rack
front sway bar.
Do I have to purchase all of these parts from Art or can they be sourced from places like Summit Racing?
I am not concerned about fitting the body to the Art frame cause that part I can do and looking forward to building it, I just need to know where to source the parts required.

packardHawk58
12-08-2015, 04:53 AM
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae194/packardhawk58/54%20Starliner/studebaker-71_zpslskerxzk.jpg (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/packardhawk58/media/54%20Starliner/studebaker-71_zpslskerxzk.jpg.html)
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae194/packardhawk58/54%20Starliner/f92f6912ba8780c47bd59ef9a4e623d01_zpsc6fp1bge.jpg (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/packardhawk58/media/54%20Starliner/f92f6912ba8780c47bd59ef9a4e623d01_zpsc6fp1bge.jpg.html)

TrickyRick
12-08-2015, 08:02 AM
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae194/packardhawk58/54%20Starliner/studebaker-71_zpslskerxzk.jpg (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/packardhawk58/media/54%20Starliner/studebaker-71_zpslskerxzk.jpg.html)


That's nice until the first corner I take and all the bondo cracks! I especially like the flush glass, I plan to do that with mine.

TrickyRick
12-08-2015, 08:07 AM
Ok Rick or Steve, I have some questions for you.
What width is the 9" you used, flange to flange or axle face to axle face.
Tyre width on rear.
Backspace on your rims.
The triangulated 4 links, would I have to buy from Art?
Your lower and top arms
stub axles,
rotors and hubs
caliphers...I don't need Wilwood,
coil overs front...what size/weight to suit a C/K
coil overs rear
steering rack
front sway bar.
Do I have to purchase all of these parts from Art or can they be sourced from places like Summit Racing?
I am not concerned about fitting the body to the Art frame cause that part I can do and looking forward to building it, I just need to know where to source the parts required.


I'll try to get you the measurements.
Mine came as a kit with everything so I cant spec shocks and springs.

TrickyRick
12-08-2015, 08:11 AM
Not going over the top with late model chev power like you guys, just a blown Studie engine with a o/drive trans.

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae194/packardhawk58/54%20Starliner/IMG_0534_zpssc09ac2m.jpg (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/packardhawk58/media/54%20Starliner/IMG_0534_zpssc09ac2m.jpg.html)

Cool motor, I'd rather be blown than injected!


Psssst. Alt belt goes on first! :^)

Dan Timberlake
12-08-2015, 03:52 PM
Hi T-Rick,

In the image in Post 15 it looks like 2 of the 3 crossmembers connecting the inner rails are just tack welded.
If they are made of rectangular tube, If nothing else that would leave them vulnerable to catching and holding an inch or so of water.

IH Scout owners are familiar with what happens down the road when a closed sway back frame member has water and dirt entry holes up high.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi109.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn46%2F83BJ60%2Ffram e%2520repair%2Fdriver-side-rot.jpg&hash=46741e8e25302c14dcf9a4fbb58c855b

http://forum.ih8mud.com/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi109.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn46%2F83BJ60%2Ffram e%2520repair%2Fpassenger-side-rot.jpg&hash=e1a2239561320cb86d2fcd7c591a747d

TrickyRick
12-08-2015, 04:02 PM
Ok Rick or Steve, I have some questions for you.
What width is the 9" you used, flange to flange or axle face to axle face.

flange to flange with discs 54 1/4

Tyre width on rear.

285/40/17 on a 10" wheel 64 1/4 outside to outside of tire

Backspace on your rims.

looks like 5 1/2

The triangulated 4 links, would I have to buy from Art?

No

Your lower and top arms

A/M

stub axles, (spindle?)

Wilwood? A/M

rotors and hubs
caliphers...I don't need Wilwood,

coil overs front...what size/weight to suit a C/K
coil overs rear
steering rack
front sway bar. rear sway bar

^^^^^^^^^A/M^^^^^^^^^

Do I have to purchase all of these parts from Art or can they be sourced from places like Summit Racing?

You can buy from whoever. What to buy would be the next question.

I just need to know where to source the parts required.

I can't give you part#'s or application. Morrison spec'd & supplied it all.


I did not start this project and only had marginal input up to this point

ProMetalShop
12-08-2015, 09:29 PM
Hi Brian
the upper and lower control arms would be best if purchased from Morrison. Before that, you would want the stock tracking width. Which many here have that info. The two Studes I'm involved in the shop, one is a gasser (Jason's) , and the other (Sony's) is closer to stock (but t hot rod des) and the rear drum to drum measurements I can get. The front is aftermarket and the track width may not be factory. Morrison will be able to tell you what the width will be with his control arms. I will try to get the info of of Sonys this week.
Tricky Rick has about summed up what you need, so let's see where Sony's may differ.

ProMetalShop
12-08-2015, 09:34 PM
PMS, it looks like you do nice work. Would it be possible to have you post a few pictures of your efforts in a separate thread with a descriptive header. It could make finding them easier in the future and helpful to more people.

Bob

Bob, I would be more than happy to post some of my metal work, with hopes that it may help in some way. Be warned, I do get descriptive.... :)

Studebaker-Buick
12-10-2015, 03:26 PM
Without getting too personal, what is the rough cost of one of these Morrison frames? $5k? $10k? $15k?
I imagine they build them to order as the order is received. If some finish work is left to the customer(such as no front cross member or rear suspension mounting points) I wonder what cost level they'd be looking at? Basically just the main frame members and structural crossmembers without suspension details.

Thanks.
Wayne

swvalcon
12-10-2015, 04:53 PM
I'am sure it's not a CASO frame by any means.

48skyliner
12-10-2015, 06:04 PM
You will have a nice front suspension, seems like a shame to compromise on the rear suspension, assuming this is for street driving. If ride quality matters, I would certainly consider independent rear suspension. Of course Art Morrison will sell you a kit for about $10k, and it is good for pretty high horsepower. But assuming you will be running no more than 400 hp, you could do what we did with my 48 Champion and on the 68 Mustang we recently upgraded - use a Nissan rear suspension. We bought a unit at the local pick-and-pull from an Infiniti J30, complete from the viscous limited slip to the disc brakes, for $250. It is all mounted on a subfame that bolts under the frame with 4 bolts, and will probably all fit under the frame you have without any cutting. The coilover shock struts are very long, so you probably will have to get some smaller ones like we did, but everything you need is well under $1k. The ratio is 3.9, so you need overdrive for highway driving, and the tuner guys say the diff is good for at least 400 hp. These have 5 by 4.5 bolt pattern. The photo is my 48 Champion chassis, actually a Skyline rear suspension, which is very similar to the Infiniti.

You can make a solid rear axle handle very well, or you can make it have a smooth ride. There is a good reason why the Jags, BMWs, and other high class cars have IRS. People who have driven my Champion and the Mustang are very impressed with the ride and handling.

50030

Pat Dilling
12-10-2015, 06:39 PM
You will have a nice front suspension, seems like a shame to compromise on the rear suspension, assuming this is for street driving. If ride quality matters, I would certainly consider independent rear suspension. Of course Art Morrison will sell you a kit for about $10k, and it is good for pretty high horsepower. But assuming you will be running no more than 400 hp, you could do what we did with my 48 Champion and on the 68 Mustang we recently upgraded - use a Nissan rear suspension. We bought a unit at the local pick-and-pull from an Infiniti J30, complete from the viscous limited slip to the disc brakes, for $250. It is all mounted on a subfame that bolts under the frame with 4 bolts, and will probably all fit under the frame you have without any cutting. The coilover shock struts are very long, so you probably will have to get some smaller ones like we did, but everything you need is well under $1k. The ratio is 3.9, so you need overdrive for highway driving, and the tuner guys say the diff is good for at least 400 hp. These have 5 by 4.5 bolt pattern. The photo is my 48 Champion chassis, actually a Skyline rear suspension, which is very similar to the Infiniti.

You can make a solid rear axle handle very well, or you can make it have a smooth ride. There is a good reason why the Jags, BMWs, and other high class cars have IRS. People who have driven my Champion and the Mustang are very impressed with the ride and handling.

50030

Wow that is very interesting. Would love to see more pictures of it. Thanks for sharing

48skyliner
12-10-2015, 07:53 PM
I thought just about everyone on this forum would have seen my project by now - detailed photos are on my web site stilettoman.info

http://stilettoman.info/2015/07/1948-studebaker-restomod-skyline-drivetrain/

The Mustang is shown in some detail in this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BnegsrbB8s

For those who live in Middle Earth, the J30 is a Nissan Leopard with left hand drive. The Skyline rear suspension was perfect for the 48 Champion, whereas the J30 rear suspension is about 1.5 inches wider, and fit the Mustang perfectly. Both cars are fitted with Nissan OEM wheels.

Pat Dilling
12-11-2015, 09:11 AM
Thanks for sharing, a very impressive build.

SScopelli
12-11-2015, 02:12 PM
I thought just about everyone on this forum would have seen my project by now - detailed photos are on my web site stilettoman.info

http://stilettoman.info/2015/07/1948-studebaker-restomod-skyline-drivetrain/

The Mustang is shown in some detail in this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BnegsrbB8s

For those who live in Middle Earth, the J30 is a Nissan Leopard with left hand drive. The Skyline rear suspension was perfect for the 48 Champion, whereas the J30 rear suspension is about 1.5 inches wider, and fit the Mustang perfectly. Both cars are fitted with Nissan OEM wheels.

I dig the Studebaker ownership...
http://stilettoman.info/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/83-Engine-Covers1.jpg

packardHawk58
12-12-2015, 01:10 AM
Am reckons it would be 7K to replicate this frame now.
Ben very impressive reconstruction of a 48 Convertible with upgraded drivetrain!
What year Nissan is the independent rearend out of? We have Skylines out here so it might be a cheaper alternative to AM links.
I wont be pumping out more than 400 hp with Studie engine.

48skyliner
12-12-2015, 03:13 AM
My 48 is actually a Starlight Coupe. I used an R33 rear suspension, which would be mid 90's production. The two R32 front clips I bought had hydraulic lines to the rear for the rear steering, but the R33 had electric rear steer. I assume the R34 had the same electric rear steer. I think the rear brakes are the same, but the R33 had slightly larger front brakes. With either rear suspension, you would want to delete the rear steer. I recall from my searches that someone in Oz sells a piece that looks exactly like what we built, that deletes all the mechanism and just becomes a rear toe adjustment.

If you have any questions about the technical aspects or parts sources, I recommend the Skylines Australia forum. That is the source I use for info - they have been helpful, and conveniently they seem to speak English. Someone on that forum can give the info on R32/33/34 rear suspension specs. I think they are the same width, but the GTR (all wheel drive) may be different.

Cannot tell from your posting, but if you have not yet obtained the front suspension and steering parts, you might take a close look at a Toyota Soarer front end if you find one in the salvage yard. I have no idea if there would be a problem with the oil pan.

t walgamuth
12-12-2015, 05:46 AM
Steve, nice work on that trunk pan!
I still have to buy the triangulated 4 link bars from Art.
This is why I wanted to see a chassis rolling so I can get some idea what I need.

Bob, thanks for the link to Nelson Motorsport that is a really informative series of build photos.
I was surprised that a couple of chassis/projects appeared so quickly considering what he charges for this frame. How many made does anybody know?

Thanks Dick, I did buy the project from Keith with the help of Mike O'Handley doing the hard work for me on the deal.
I like the way you can drive down the road with no hood, doors and registration and not worry about being pinged by the coppers! Out here you couldn't go 20ft without being hauled into the slammer. Got to move to the US!

Rick, thanks for the photos, just what I needed to see.
I am doing a Hardtop body shell like yours, could I PM you with some questions?
Not going over the top with late model chev power like you guys, just a blown Studie engine with a o/drive trans.

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae194/packardhawk58/54%20Starliner/IMG_0534_zpssc09ac2m.jpg (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/packardhawk58/media/54%20Starliner/IMG_0534_zpssc09ac2m.jpg.html)

Thanks! The US is still a great place to live despite what some would have you believe.;)