Steering: How do you remove the steering wheel?

[Sledgehammer]

On a 56 Transtar pick up? I have the horn button, ring and all that off, I got the nut loose. The steering wheel is very brittle and I am worried about breaking it.

The "bolts" that held the horn ring on is what I am used to using to pull off a wheel, but this thing only had some small screws holding that on. I don't think they will be strong enough to pull the wheel with and don't even know if that is how this one comes off.

Any ideas?

Thanks

[Swifster]

Steering wheel puller...or a....sledgehammer.

[Alan]

Sledge, Those are 1/4" X 28 threads that you are looking at and they are plenty strong. Get one of those cheap Harbor Freight pullers, some 1/4" fine threaded bolts about 3" long and make a little aluminum plug to fit in the end of the steering shaft for the puller to push against, after you push the horn wire down the shaft a little to keep from crushing it. And don't forget to disconnect the battery first.

[Sledgehammer]

I wish it was 1/4" bolts. It has small sheet metal style screws holding the horn ring in.

I found this picture about two pages back about someone else with the same issues... maybe that's how it works

[Skip Lackie]

I wish it was 1/4" bolts. It has small sheet metal style screws holding the horn ring in.

I found this picture about two pages back about someone else with the same issues... maybe that's how it works.

Right. You can't use a "modern" wheel puller on a C cab steering wheel. You have to fabricate something to pull on the underside of the wheel. Back in the day, there were pullers that did that.

[jrlemke]

The puller in the picture in #4 is a bearing puller, it should work just fine as shown. Put the wheel nut on the shaftloosly so you don't ruin the end of the shaft. -Jim

[sweetolbob]

Right. You can't use a "modern" wheel puller on a C cab steering wheel. You have to fabricate something to pull on the underside of the wheel. Back in the day, there were pullers that did that.

Harbor Freight sell those bearing pullers for not much money. I've had one for years and I don't use it much but it comes in handy enough that I won't be without it. Bob

[jclary]

I wish it was 1/4" bolts. It has small sheet metal style screws holding the horn ring in.

I found this picture about two pages back about someone else with the same issues... maybe that's how it works

Hey Sledge...this is a picture of a truck I was taking apart a few years ago. This is my set-up for removing those type steering wheels. The components on the front side of the steering wheel are from a standard puller you can buy at almost any parts supplier and tool stores such as Harbor Freight and Northern Tool. The bright part clamped around the steering shaft on the back side is a "bearing separator."

Again, these are available at the same type of stores. I can't recall how much work it took to develop this rig, but I'll try to explain it. For example, the bolts that connect the bearing separator to the bar on the front side. I'm not sure if I had to drill and tap the separator for those bolts, or if they were already there. I believe I had to drill and tap the holes. Those bolts are either 5/16" or 3/8".

The process is to remove everything inside the horn ring area until you only have the shaft and retaining nut remaining. (If your horn wire is still there, you can leave it in place, since it is spring loaded and will compress.)

Loosen the shaft nut and back it out to where the steering shaft is almost flush with the nut, but a tiny bit recessed. This should prevent distorting the shaft and ruining the threads when turning the main puller bolt.

Once that is set up, I like to further protect the shaft and nut by using a metal spacer between the main puller bolt and steering shaft. This pretty much covers the front part of the assembly.

For the back side, once you have a bearing separator in hand, you'll understand how it is constructed so you can orientate it where the flat side goes against the back of the wheel. You separate the two clam-shell halves, and reassemble them around the steering shaft at the small gap between the back of the steering wheel and column jacket.

Once everything is in place, you can begin the pull by easing down a few turns on the main puller bolt to increase pressure. As you increase pressure, use a small hammer (not a sledge hammer) to tap the end of the main bolt. A ball peen hammer or dead blow is fine. Turn and tap...turn and tap. When the steering wheel finally breaks loose, it will "pop." Since the retainer nut is there, it can't move far, but you will immediately see that the puller bolt will turn easier. At that point, you can remove the puller assembly, remove the main shaft retainer nut, and the steering wheel.

You will also see that there is a very strong spring behind the steering wheel. It makes you wonder why that steering wheel could ever be that hard to remove with that spring pushing against it.

Hope this helps. If you have further questions, send me a private message and I'll be happy to respond.

[Sledgehammer]

Thanks, I don't have a picture of my wheel, but it's in bad shape and the back where the bearing separator would go to pull it is all split. I am worried about making it worse or it braking altogether but I guess I will just have to try it and see.

[Warren Webb]

Sounds like your wheel is in such bad shape that it will only be used as a core. Do not throw it away. Do you have another wheel to replace it now? If not I would say something in this thread or place an ad in the "Studebaker Swap" page, or both. Shrock Brothers (814-672-5544) offer recast steering wheels but this avenue is not cheap. I would contact them if I was doing a ground up restoration & had an open wallet.

[unclemiltie]

I generally put something like Kroil Oil on the wheel around the shaft and let it soak for a few days. If there is any rust on the shaft and hub this will help loosen it. The shaft is a splined shaft so I soak all 360 degrees around the shaft

[jclary]

Thanks, I don't have a picture of my wheel, but it's in bad shape and the back where the bearing separator would go to pull it is all split. I am worried about making it worse or it braking altogether but I guess I will just have to try it and see.

The plastic at the back of the wheel extends a bit beyond the metal core. You can make a spacer to fit inside that area so that you end up with only metal to metal contact. It will take a little innovative improvising, but if it is important to you, I'm sure you are up to it.

I wouldn't be surprised that all original C Cab steering wheels are cracked to some degree by now. Especially, around the rim and where the spokes intersect with the rim. I have witnessed the back center hub crack by a muscled friend ripping one off. (I will not name him, but he paid for it by busting his funny-bone against the back of the cab when the wheel broke loose.)

Warren Webb is right about the core. The Shrock Brothers are artisans at their craft and re-cast steering wheels using old cores. They use superior material, and will provide you a new wheel that will probably still be in good shape when you leave the vehicle to your heirs.

Here's the link...

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LEVi_DJUVW4uIA_I4PxQt.;_ylu=X3oDMTByOHZyb21tBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1447401028/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fshrockbrothers.com%2f/RK=0/RS=E9Ha6mJAKknnZ03re8dBOeDS3Kw-

The fallback solution is to do your repairs, re-install your steering wheel and buy one of those wrap around steering wheel covers until you find an acceptable replacement at a swap meet. Then...buy a new steering wheel cover for that one...install it and drive with a smile.

[Skip Lackie]

Thanks, I don't have a picture of my wheel, but it's in bad shape and the back where the bearing separator would go to pull it is all split. I am worried about making it worse or it braking altogether but I guess I will just have to try it and see.

There are plenty of used C cab steering wheels around, and probably some of them are in better shape than yours. And I believe SI still has some of the later three-spoke truck steering wheels in stock.

[Chipmaker]

Center punch,drill and tap the steel hub of the steering wheel for 1/4 in bolts.Then use a standard steering wheel puller.Only need 2 holes at 180 degrees.

[Sledgehammer]

I am going to give it a shot tomorrow. My wheel has a lot of patina but I don't want to ruin it. I am actually taking this all apart to try my hand at fabricating a power steering set up using an electric p/s unit and I want to reuse my old wheel and tube. The neighbor on the next street has a fabrication shop and he doesn't know it yet but he is going to help me with the brackets and mounts.