Electrical: 2R headlight switch

[LeoH]

Does someone have a headlight switch for a 2R truck they could take a reasonable photo of and post it? I'd like to compare what is in this truck with what is supposed to be there as there is a different handle on the light switch, but the plate at the dash seems like it could be original. I'd like to get a replacement original light switch handle instead of the plain white plastic handle on it now.

[mbstude]

[LeoH]

SORRY. I meant a photo of the switch itself so I can determine if the switch and knob are new, or just the knob.

What is the F knob for?

I see you took that while the truck's running.

[mbstude]

The F knob is for the fog lights.

That's a picture the seller sent. I won't see the truck for another week!

[2R2]

Assuming you are looking for a picture of the switch from the engine side, I am attaching the best I have handy:


Here is a picture of the interior side, pretty much same as Matthew provided though it is interesting to compare the early -vs- late gauge cluster designs (my 2R was built in October of '49)

[LeoH]

Excellent! That's just fine, that helps tremendously. Interesting, noticing the differences between this engine and mine. What year is this?
Looking at your switch, I'll double check mine, but I think I may have an original switch after all, so all I'll need is a replacement original knob.

[LeoH]

The F knob is for the fog lights.

That's a picture the seller sent. I won't see the truck for another week!

Ah. I understand the motivation if so, but I just assumed you were showing off your new baby.

[2R2]

Excellent! That's just fine, that helps tremendously. Interesting, noticing the differences between this engine and mine. What year is this?
Looking at your switch, I'll double check mine, but I think I may have an original switch after all, so all I'll need is a replacement original knob.

Leo, my truck is a survivor! It is a '49 1/2 ton 2R-5, with the small Champ six and overdrive. Which engine does your truck have ? Also, the heater boxes changed during the run of the 2R trucks, which may also explain why things look different under the hood.

[LeoH]

Yep, they're different. It's a '52 2R17A, the loooong rider. With the 245. Otherwise, having that photo is going to be a help when I get to futzing with the instrument panel. First things first last night, squirting anti rust spray on the nuts at the back of the dashboard. I won't be able to pull the panel forward too much, I'm betting, but if I need to get in there, it's a good idea to get the nuts off and put anti-seize on them afterwards.

[TWChamp]

Yep, they're different. It's a '52 2R17A, the loooong rider. With the 245. Otherwise, having that photo is going to be a help when I get to futzing with the instrument panel. First things first last night, squirting anti rust spray on the nuts at the back of the dashboard. I won't be able to pull the panel forward too much, I'm betting, but if I need to get in there, it's a good idea to get the nuts off and put anti-seize on them afterwards.

Why would you need to pull the panel forward? Everything is easy access from under the hood. My 2R isn't close by to look at, but on a lot of light switches you just push down on a small spring loaded button (usually near the rear of the switch), then pull the knob and shaft forward and out of the switch. Then just push the correct one in until it clicks into position. Some other knobs have a flat metal spring clip that holds the knob to the shaft. You just look for the small notch on the rear side of the knob and push the metal retainer forward to make the knob slip off the shaft.

[Greenstude]

Your white-on-black knobs are correct for a 2R truck. The "F" fog-light switch with the gold centre is from a 1947-49 Champion sedan. A 1949 2R truck odometer has thin brown squarish numbers on a white background, much like late 1940s Chrysler products. 1950 2R trucks have the white-on-black odometer numbers seen here. The odometers are not interchangeable.

[LeoH]

Why would you need to pull the panel forward? Everything is easy access from under the hood. My 2R isn't close by to look at, but on a lot of light switches you just push down on a small spring loaded button (usually near the rear of the switch), then pull the knob and shaft forward and out of the switch. Then just push the correct one in until it clicks into position. Some other knobs have a flat metal spring clip that holds the knob to the shaft. You just look for the small notch on the rear side of the knob and push the metal retainer forward to make the knob slip off the shaft.

I did not know that. I am used to the escutcheon and bolt holding the switch to the dash as is on my 60 Lark. What about the switch knob, how are they attached/exchanged?

[TWChamp]

I did not know that. I am used to the escutcheon and bolt holding the switch to the dash as is on my 60 Lark. What about the switch knob, how are they attached/exchanged?

I wish my 2R pickup was close by so I could see it. I described two ways the knob is held on to the shaft. A third way is it could be screwed onto a threaded shaft. Someone with a 2R pickup will probably lets us know which method is used on this truck. Since the switch is right in the open when you lift the hood, I'd look for the release button. If you don't see one the pull the knob out and see if it has the metal flat spring retainer.

[Skip Lackie]

The light switch changed midway through the 2R run; the parts book gives the break point serial numbers. I am not familiar with the first type, which was a re-use of an earlier car switch, but the late one has a 6xxxxx part number and was used through at least the E series trucks. The switch itself has internal threads and is attached with a nut shaped like a top hat. The shaft is split and the knob has little ears to match the split, plus a set screw. You turn, not pull, the knob to turn on the lights.

[gordr]

I don't think any Studebakers used the common Brand X headlight switch with a release button for the knob spindle. Too bad, as they were handy.