Engine: Got some oil leak not sure what to repair 62 Lark

[Luis Reyes]

I have been driving my 62 Lark lately and just started with an oil leak and I cant figure out where its coming from maybe someone can help. It looks like it is coming from the timing cover/balancer not sure, it is leaking oil to the bottom frame / cross member any ideas what its causing leak? http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...&1442782906350

[StudeRich]

Timing Cover Seal or Fuel Pump actuating lever "PIN" on an Airtex.

[63t-cab]

Timing cover seal, I've got the same issue

[jclary]

The suggestions mentioned pretty much cover the most typical oil leaks. Two others could be the pan gasket, and timing cover gasket. I don't know your familiarity, experience and skill level with these engines, but with the manual, it is pretty straight forward. I have seen the felt seals (on a very long term sitting engine) become dry, and, over time, adhere to the crank. Then, upon being turned during an attempt to crank the engine, the seal will tear and pretty much disintegrate. I replaced one of mine with a neoprene chevron modified cover I bought from Lionel Stone years ago. I don't know who is offering those now, but hopefully, someone will provide the info.

If you stay with the original type felt seal, some folks will drill a tiny hole in the bottom of the inside seal retainer so that oil does not pool in that area. I have one engine that I did that to. Honestly, I don't have any Studebaker that does not leak a little. If it is not too bad, many of us simply "live with it." Kinda like keeping a vintage Triumph or Harley motorcycle. Of course, if you, family members, special friends, have beautiful fresh concrete, then your motivation to stop the leaks takes on an entirely different urgency.

If you decide to tackle a serious engine oil leak prevention project...pay special attention to the aluminum "filler" block that completes the lower assembly at the bottom of the timing cover, front crank, and front oil pan seal areas. It is a critical piece and the threads are easy to strip if you get too aggressive with your ratchet.

[Hallabutt]

Just had two done at Vik's Machine in Livingston Mt. ijvik@msn.com
You will need to pull the crank hub and send it along with the cover. They cut down the mating surface, where the reverse oil groove (slinger) is located. If this isn't done, I have been told, there is a good chance that it will still leak even after a suitable seal is installed. Be prepared for a wait. It might be better now that harvest is over. Start the process now when things are slower for them.