Engine: Vac. Advance

[bruin]

This flighthawk will be the death of me! I just cannot get it to run or idle right new coil wires points cap had the carb completely overhauled an it still won't run. But by fluke I undid the vac. Advance from the carb an it idles great plus it won't stall when I give it a bit of gas. So I'm hoping replacing this will cure the problem. So getting this off you take the two screws out but inside the distributor you have to take the lock ring off that shaft how do you get that off I can't even see it. Also is there anything else what might cause this vac. Advance not to work? Thanks for any help

[Mike Van Veghten]

For what it might be worth...I haven't used a vacuum advance mechanism for...40+years. I just adjust the initial and mechanical timing to suit the situation.
So...that might not be your problem.

Mike

[bruin]

I just tried starting it again with vac disconnected an it's back to running rough so that's not the problem but it seems to be dripping out water from the tail pipe could this mean a blown head gasket or cracked head? There is a little bit of water comming out between the head an block

[Leon-Stevens]

The tail pipe water could just be condensation (if it only occurs until the engine and exaust pipes heat up), however if you are "burning" water
check to see if one or two spark plugs are unusually clean (steam cleaned) ...this might give you a clue. At any rate there should be no water
comming out between the head and block. I doubt very much if vac advance could be causing the problem.
Leon

[bruin]

I will pull the plugs out an take a look at them,it might be kinda hard to tell because I just changed them all so they have about maybe a hour of run time on them. As for the water in the tail pipe the engine was warm it just seemed to be more than a normal amount also I live in a pretty dry climate

[Bud]

I recommend running a compression check which could show a leaky head gasket. Also most radiator shops can do a dye test to check for combustion leaks into the cooling system. A defective vacuum advance will cause a drop in gas mileage and possibly cause the engine to run a bit warmer, but it won't cause the engine to run rough. You can check the vacuum advance for correct operation by sucking on the vacuum line. The vacuum advance should hold in the full advance position with about 13 in of vacuum being applied. Are you getting a good spark as a weak spark will mimic problems with the carburetor. A defective condenser will cause rough running engine and will also destroy the points in short order. Bud

[bruin]

Right after I did the tune up points plugs condenser cap the car ran great for a day. Than it would idle fine but as soon as you tried to drive it the car would cut out an buck an jerk sort of like you were leaning to drive a std shift. Thought maybe carb so I had tha overhauled that didn't help checked the fuel pump that was weak replaced that no luck also replaced a second set of plugs. Also 2nd coil as well first one was bad it heated up to hot to touch

[Bud]

Try replacing the condenser, I got a batch of bad ones from one of our respected Studebaker parts vendors last year and out of the dozen I bought, several failed exhibiting the same symptoms as a carburetor problem. If I remember correctly, the Champion 6 engines used an ignition coil with an internal resistor which could explain why your coils overheated if you installed coils that require an external ballast resistor. Also be sure to check the condition of the points if you used an incorrect coil or the condenser has failed as those problems will burn the contacts in short order. Bud

[bruin]

I will order new points an condenser I did keep the old condenser maybe I will toss that back in just to see if there is any change

[Dan Timberlake]

After completing the compression test, if the results are decent, I'd disconnect the vac advance and plug the line to the manifold. I'd hook up a timing light and watch for steady spark, that advances smoothly when revved up.

I'd hook a vacuum gage to the manifold, and compare the vacuum readings under different conditions to a chart, or examples like this -

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

[BRUCESTUDE]

I just replaced my vacuum advance, it was leaking past the diaphragm and not working at all. Definitely helps with gas mileage and smoother acceleration..... A vacuum leak will cause rough idle, a leaky v.a. or vacuum hose to vacuum wipers or loose carb mount bolts/nuts.

[TWChamp]

Right after I did the tune up points plugs condenser cap the car ran great for a day. Than it would idle fine but as soon as you tried to drive it the car would cut out an buck an jerk sort of like you were leaning to drive a std shift. Thought maybe carb so I had tha overhauled that didn't help checked the fuel pump that was weak replaced that no luck also replaced a second set of plugs. Also 2nd coil as well first one was bad it heated up to hot to touch

That sounds like the hot coil could be caused by the short wire inside the distributor touching the housing and shorting out due to worn insulation on the wire. My neighbor's 1950 Champion had this problem a month ago, and I slipped a piece of plastic, cut from a pop bottle, between the wire and housing. It works fine now.

[bruin]

Well that was the problem pulled the new condenser out an put the old one back in an the car runs great! Thanks for the help guys