Hi,
got two very nice condition used hubs for my NOS 11" brake drums, and a set of new studs and Timken bearing sets from SI.
The little town where I live has an old auto repair shop (3rd generation), and always has 40s-50s cars in there from the area, so assume they would have the 'old time' equipment to swage in my new hubs and studs (see photo of original swaging on my original drum, and my new 'just tapered and pressed together" fit on the new ones.
Misunderstanding; they didn't have a tool to do that, but don't think it is a problem, 'those studs will never come loose, I promise you". I have done business with him for years, good mechanic... probably right, but I would still like them swaged like the originals if possible :-). Do any of you Minnesota folks know of anyone in the metro St.Paul area that still does that?
Question #2: I brought my new Timken bearing races/cones with, so they could 'touch up' the NOS drum and true it (it was almost perfect, barely touched it they said; this with drum and hub just pressed together as shown). BUT, one of the hubs turns out to have a slight issue; the OUTER cavity for the bearing race is about .015-.020" larger than the bearing race. I measured vs my old drums and the OTHER new one, and the Timken race is correct, my hub cavity is just slightly oversize, so the race can be put in and out by hand, no press fit. What is the best way to correct for this? The mechanic said to just prick lightly around the inner diameter of the drum, just to keep the race in place (once it is together, no issue" though I certainly wouldn't want it to ever start spinning instead of the bearings! ;-) Thought I might put a dab of Loctite around it at the same time as pricking for 'interference' as insurance against that. Thoughts? Thanks.
got two very nice condition used hubs for my NOS 11" brake drums, and a set of new studs and Timken bearing sets from SI.
The little town where I live has an old auto repair shop (3rd generation), and always has 40s-50s cars in there from the area, so assume they would have the 'old time' equipment to swage in my new hubs and studs (see photo of original swaging on my original drum, and my new 'just tapered and pressed together" fit on the new ones.
Misunderstanding; they didn't have a tool to do that, but don't think it is a problem, 'those studs will never come loose, I promise you". I have done business with him for years, good mechanic... probably right, but I would still like them swaged like the originals if possible :-). Do any of you Minnesota folks know of anyone in the metro St.Paul area that still does that?
Question #2: I brought my new Timken bearing races/cones with, so they could 'touch up' the NOS drum and true it (it was almost perfect, barely touched it they said; this with drum and hub just pressed together as shown). BUT, one of the hubs turns out to have a slight issue; the OUTER cavity for the bearing race is about .015-.020" larger than the bearing race. I measured vs my old drums and the OTHER new one, and the Timken race is correct, my hub cavity is just slightly oversize, so the race can be put in and out by hand, no press fit. What is the best way to correct for this? The mechanic said to just prick lightly around the inner diameter of the drum, just to keep the race in place (once it is together, no issue" though I certainly wouldn't want it to ever start spinning instead of the bearings! ;-) Thought I might put a dab of Loctite around it at the same time as pricking for 'interference' as insurance against that. Thoughts? Thanks.
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