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Pulling Motor for Rebuild - 2R5

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  • Engine: Pulling Motor for Rebuild - 2R5

    Hello All,
    I have a 1950 2R5 Pickup that has developed a knock so I am pulling the motor for a complete rebuild by a semi local fella who has done these motors in the past.... Since this is the first time I have ever pulled a motor on my own, my questions is:

    Are there any 'gotchas' that I need to be aware of preforming this operation?

    Searched the forum but nothing that general came up. I have a shop manual and it seems fairly straight forward. Also took plenty of photos and bagged/bagging and labeling anything that is removed.

    I'm a little worried to find out what happens then I try to separate the motor and bell housing. If you have any tips or tricks, I am all ears.

    Thanks!
    -jes
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Others may differ, because both methods have their challenges. I believe I'd pull engine and transmission together. Then, you could get a great look at the entire engine/tranny without crawling around on a creeper or risking debris in your eyes. You would have to disengage the shift rods, clutch linkage, and overdrive wiring. But, the benefit would be a great look and opportunity to examine and renew the shift linkage bushings, engine mounts, etc. Re-assembling and installing as a unit out of the chassis makes it easy to torque the assembly together too.

    While I'm commenting, I'd like to see you find the proper spark plug metal loom for your plug wires. The wires you have are too long. The shorter the better. Believe it or not...and although the electrical discharge from the distributor to the spark plug seems "instant"...due to resistance...it takes time. Wires that are too long affect ignition timing. When set to appropriate specs...it will run better with shorter length plug wires.

    It is easy to sit here and type opinions and advice. I'll admit, that when pulling an engine, too often, I've forgotten to remove something like a ground strap, carburetor linkage, or the flex fuel line coming from the metal one to the fuel pump. Just take your time, don't force anything, and I'm sure you'll do fine. Looks like you are already well on your way. Good luck with it.
    John Clary
    Greer, SC

    SDC member since 1975

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi JClary,
      Thanks for the comment, especially regarding the length of the plug wires. I will correct that before I put the motor back in the truck. I believe I have everything disconnected from the motor that you mentioned above, but my guess is I have missed something along the way... Ill have to triple check.

      If I only remove the motor and not the motor and trans as one, do you know if I need any special tools to marry them once the rebuild is complete? My concern is once I remove the bolts holding the bell housing and motor together, something may fall out before I can take a photo or see where it came from to put it back in properly.

      I am also considering having the clutch plates redone or replaced while the two are separated. Is the common practice or does it fall in the realm of 'if it isn't broke, then don't fix it'?


      Thanks for the feedback for a newby.
      -jes

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey...If it is gonna fall out, it would fall out anyway. Better have it fall out on a bench than under the truck. I'm thinking you will have an easier time aligning the pilot shaft and spline out of the truck, rather than twisting it around while underneath. I've done both, but I'm not as young and flexible as I was back then. Once you begin to reassemble the bellhousing, there is a vague memory I have of making sure the throw out bearing mechanism is properly positioned, but the manual should provide instructions. There are some simple alignment tools available to help line everything back up for the transmission shaft, but you can manage that with a bit of wiggling the transmission. Wouldn't hurt to have one of those on hand. Honestly, it has been so long since I've done it...I would consult my manual before attempting the job. The main thing is following proper sequence of assembling and connecting components.
        John Clary
        Greer, SC

        SDC member since 1975

        Comment


        • #5
          See, now I'm really considering pulling it out as a motor/trans unit. My guess it it couldn't be any harder pulling it out as a unit then just the motor..
          If I could create a poll, I would LOL...

          Comment


          • #6
            I dunno how high you'll be able to lift it, but it's usual to remove the radiator and its mounting to allow the engine and trans to come out more or less horizontally. However, be aware that the radiator mount holds the front ends of the front fenders in place. You may have to realign everything (fenders, hood) upon reassembly. The whole front clip should be loosely reassembled and the hood carefully lowered and raised to see how it lines up. The front clip can be slid L-R as an assembly to make it line up with the hood. There's a single long bolt on the bottom of the radiator mount that can be moved L-R to do this.
            Skip Lackie

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Skip,
              I was planning on removing all but the front grill and pulling the motor out and up. I removed the radiator and the radiator mount, but have left the grill in place.

              Do you recommend removing that grill as well? The bolts are going to be a real bear to remove, but it is possible to remove them if you all think it best to remove that grill as well.

              thnx
              -jes

              Comment


              • #8
                If you haven't done it already, I would remove the carb, distributor, and anything else that might get broken if the lift chain gets caught in it or it bumps something. If you take your time and double check everything all should go well. I pulled a Studebaker six out of a car in a salvage yard and forgot to disconnect the ground strap on the bell housing. The yard truck lifted the whole front of the car before we realized what had happened. No harm done.
                "In the heart of Arkansas."
                Searcy, Arkansas
                1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                1952 2R pickup

                Comment


                • #9
                  That's a strong ground strap! HAHA
                  I'll quadruple check everything and slowly remove the motor. I see a trend here, which is go slow and check often for anything not disconnected or hanging up.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    new / rebuild clutch and pressure plate. Resurface flywheel. Check teeth on ring gear. Just to easy to do while they are apart.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 70Avanti2 View Post
                      new / rebuild clutch and pressure plate. Resurface flywheel. Check teeth on ring gear. Just to easy to do while they are apart.
                      In your opinion, is this a specialty thing or could any reputable trans shop be trusted to do this?

                      thanks!
                      -jes

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        here is how I did mine the whole shebang all at once easy as pie.
                        Click image for larger version

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ID:	1700349 here is a link to my 2r5 build. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...49-2R5-freebie
                        "Fords are cars Studebakers are Automobiles" -Jerry Washburn

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JesseKilgore View Post
                          Hi Skip,
                          I was planning on removing all but the front grill and pulling the motor out and up. I removed the radiator and the radiator mount, but have left the grill in place.

                          Do you recommend removing that grill as well? The bolts are going to be a real bear to remove, but it is possible to remove them if you all think it best to remove that grill as well.

                          thnx
                          -jes
                          Yes, I would, as shown in post #12. Unless you have an awful lot of vertical room and a big beam up there to hang the chain fall on.
                          Skip Lackie

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Well then, it looks like the grill is coming off and the motor and trans will be coming out as a complete unit.

                            Hitting the trans, clutch etc while it's out is clearly the right way to do it all and I think it will also allow me to repaint / clean up thw engine bay as well as rewire the ol truck while the motor is out being rebuilt.

                            Any other suggestions? Anyone know a good Studebaker transmission guy in the California Central Valley (Fresno, modesto, Stockton etc)??

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Definitely pull the whole unit together, when the engine tips up transmission oil will run out the back of the transmission. What I have done is pull the engine up and place a pan under it and let it drain, or (voice of experience) you will have oil every where.

                              Comment

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