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  • Cool/Heat: Temp Sending Unit

    Hi all,
    Can anyone tell me if there is a special tool to remove the temperature sending unit from a cloverleaf engine. I have tried a socket but a 1 inch does not fit and a 1 1/16 is too large. Any Ideas. I was thinking a strap wrench but there isn't a lot of room between the sending unit and the firewall. Please help if you can. This is for my 60 Lark VII convertible, it appears the engine has been changed to a newer full flow oiling cloverleaf engine. I assume the engine to be 1962 - 1964 259CID 2bbl, but it would be nice if it were a 289 R1 engine, is there any way to tell without disassembling the engine?
    Thank

  • #2
    I removed mine with a pipe wrench.

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    • #3
      That should work just need to get a smaller one then the 12 inch one I have.
      Thanks

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      • #4
        To tell if you have a 259 or 289, just pull a Spark Plug and use a small bright Light to see if it has flat top 259 Pistons or Dished 289 Pistons. You can also feel the Dished area with a small tool or a Pencil.

        The likelihood of a Avanti Engine in a '60 Lark is small but possible, especially with a 2 Barrel. But a compression test would tell you if the flattop pistons are 259 or high performance Jet Thrust/Avanti Type with 10.25 to 1 Comp. requiring Premium or better Fuel, in my eyes not a Plus for a driven Car.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
        SDC Member Since 1967

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        • #5
          Are you sure you're talking about the temperature sending unit, the one's I've removed/replaced are typically done with a 5/8 inch box end wrench. They're usually brass or aluminum and brass and a pipe wrench would leave terrible teeth marks (okay for remove and toss, but if it's anything you are going to reuse not recommended).

          Are you possibly talking about the oil pressure sending unit?
          Dan Peterson
          Montpelier, VT
          1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
          1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)

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          • #6
            In the 60's or 70's I had to buy a special socket for many sending units used at that time.
            The MAC or Snap On tool guy would have the tool, and I'd think most auto parts stores would also have it.

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            • #7
              I have found it easier to remove the "plate" that holds the sending unit ( two half inch bolts) and then you have plenty of room to remove the sending unit from the plate on the workbench. One of the bolts does attach the throttle linkage "bell crank" so you will have to deal with that, but it isn't difficult.
              Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
              '53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
              '56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
              '58 Packard Hawk. A partially restored car that was not completely assembled.

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              • #8
                I hear what Dan is saying in Post #5, I have never seen a Water Temp. Sender that does not take a Hex Socket, certainly not a Studebaker one.

                It is the Oil Pressure Senders on Cars with Idiot Lights, that always take a special Socket available pretty reasonable at Auto Parts Stores.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                SDC Member Since 1967

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                  I hear what Dan is saying in Post #5, I have never seen a Water Temp. Sender that does not take a Hex Socket, certainly not a Studebaker one.

                  It is the Oil Pressure Senders on Cars with Idiot Lights, that always take a special Socket available pretty reasonable at Auto Parts Stores.
                  Ok I really need some help now. You are correct I was looking at the oil sending unit for the idiot light. I cant seem to find the temp sending unit, can you explain where it should be located i am overlooking it somewhere.

                  the only orange wire I see under the hood is capped at the overdrive kick down assembly, the temp gauge worked a year ago when I last drove it before I did a carb overhaul, but now I get no temp indication at all. Can you help please.
                  Thanks

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    that orange wire "is" your temp sensor connection to the back of the driver's side valve cover bank. Tough to see behind the throttle lever(s)......try a small mirror..

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                      I hear what Dan is saying in Post #5, I have never seen a Water Temp. Sender that does not take a Hex Socket, certainly not a Studebaker one.

                      It is the Oil Pressure Senders on Cars with Idiot Lights, that always take a special Socket available pretty reasonable at Auto Parts Stores.
                      Ok I really need some help now. You are correct I was looking at the oil sending unit for the idiot light. I cant seem to find the temp sending unit, can you explain where it should be located i am overlooking it somewhere.


                      Never mind I found it thanks to my trusty mirror and a good flashlight. I want to thank StudeRich and dpson for the guidance, the wire broke off of it so a new connector and I should be good to go.
                      Thanks again everyone.

                      the only orange wire I see under the hood is capped at the overdrive kick down assembly, the temp gauge worked a year ago when I last drove it before I did a carb overhaul, but now I get no temp indication at all. Can you help please.
                      Thanks

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jackb View Post
                        that orange wire "is" your temp sensor connection to the back of the driver's side valve cover bank. Tough to see behind the throttle lever(s)......try a small mirror..
                        Found it, like you said a mirror and flashlight did the trick, wire is broken off from the connector should be a easy fix.
                        You guys are great. Thanks

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