Klean-Strip Rust Converter

[Jimmie]

As one famous person once said, "Let me make this perfectly clear," I am not planning to enter my 1950 in any car shows beyond local festivals and the like. Therefore, I do not plan to sandblast the frame and everything else that the local people tell me I need to do to restore the car. I am using metal to replace some areas and in some areas I am not taking any bondo out if it appears to be in good shape after 14 years(no bubbles etc.). There are very few areas where the metal has split an inch or two in bends etc. and these will be repaired with metal/welding. The interior will be redone from floor covering to headliner. After treating all the fenders etc. I will be putting the car back together before having a bodyshop do the final sanding and painting on the exposed part of the car. I intend to keep the car original as much as finances and time will allow. But, even with all the new rubber and glass etc, I do not expect to have a show car. I plan to keep the car inside when it is finished and drive it on a regular basis unless the weather is wet.

Now, after saying all that, my question is this, has anyone had any experience using the Klean-Strip Rust Converter under the fenders, on the frame, bottom of floorboard, headlight buckets and other out of sight rusty areas. The car is very clean in these areas but with a surface rust on everythging-no flakes etc.

What I am planning to do:
1. wirebrush the rust off pretty good
2. spray the rust converter on it the TWO TIMES that it suggests on the can
3. Then brush away any loose flakes that may show up and treat those areas again
4. Apply undercoating to the underside of the fenders and the floor board
5. Paint everything else underneath-the entire frame, driveshaft, springs, gastank neck and other such parts.

Would it be better to simply spray all the under parts(after rust treatment) with a good black paint and forget the undercoating? By spray I am talking about cans of spray paint like Rustolium.

An automotive paint supply tech told me that since I was not wanting to spend a lot of money that I should go with-I think he said acrylic-enamel for the outside of the car. Does this sound right. He said that it would not need a clearcoat. The car will be painted red again as close as possible to the red it was when I had it painted in the late 80's (It was black when I bought it in 74), unless my wife changes my mind! When I figure out how to put a picture of it with my signature you can see what it looked like 14 years ago when I sold it.

What do you think guys and gals? Talk to me in simple non-technical terms.
Thanks for your input.

Jim

1950 2 timer
Orleans, Indiana

[StudeRich]

The rust stopping and prevention methods you suggested sound like they will work fine. I don't have experience with Kleen Strip rust converter, but most of those products are just acid. The only one I question is leaving the underside painted and not undercoated. In the first place I have to assume that all the floors ARE undercoated, it would be a lot of work to remove, so I don't see how you could paint the metal. Anyway the new undercoating is not like the old tar stuff anymore, it's a rubbery/plastic type and will last better and I would use it, if you can afford it. It would take a lot of it you know!

The paint question will get you as many answers as there are paint types. The acrylic enamel drys slow and requires a spray booth or at least a very clean environment to do a good job. It is a step or two above Lacquer for durability, the base clear is the most durable and most expensive and not something a backyard painter can do, because of the toxic thinners in the clearcoat. On the other hand if you are paying a professional to shoot it, the preparation is most of the work so why go cheap on the material, after you've paid for the labor?

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[StudeRich]

The rust stopping and prevention methods you suggested sound like they will work fine. I don't have experience with Kleen Strip rust converter, but most of those products are just acid. The only one I question is leaving the underside painted and not undercoated. In the first place I have to assume that all the floors ARE undercoated, it would be a lot of work to remove, so I don't see how you could paint the metal. Anyway the new undercoating is not like the old tar stuff anymore, it's a rubbery/plastic type and will last better and I would use it, if you can afford it. It would take a lot of it you know!

The paint question will get you as many answers as there are paint types. The acrylic enamel drys slow and requires a spray booth or at least a very clean environment to do a good job. It is a step or two above Lacquer for durability, the base clear is the most durable and most expensive and not something a backyard painter can do, because of the toxic thinners in the clearcoat. On the other hand if you are paying a professional to shoot it, the preparation is most of the work so why go cheap on the material, after you've paid for the labor?

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[jacsprat]

May I suggest a paint sold by PM Industries, 442 Ridge Road, West Milford, NJ, 07480 Phone: 1-800-833-8933. This is the very best paint I"ve ever seen and used. One word of caution; get several small cans or jars ( 1/4 pint?) and the first time you open the can, fill the small containers to the max and seal tightly, what you plan on not using immediately. Else you will throw away more paint than you will likely use! Give PM (Pat) a call, He is a good fellow and I've been buying his paint for 15 + years. He has silver for two undercoats and black, red, yellow (?),or, third silver for top coats. He has, or had, an Avanti.

[jacsprat]

May I suggest a paint sold by PM Industries, 442 Ridge Road, West Milford, NJ, 07480 Phone: 1-800-833-8933. This is the very best paint I"ve ever seen and used. One word of caution; get several small cans or jars ( 1/4 pint?) and the first time you open the can, fill the small containers to the max and seal tightly, what you plan on not using immediately. Else you will throw away more paint than you will likely use! Give PM (Pat) a call, He is a good fellow and I've been buying his paint for 15 + years. He has silver for two undercoats and black, red, yellow (?),or, third silver for top coats. He has, or had, an Avanti.

[bondobilly]

If you are going to use acrylic enamel, opt for the hardener additive. It will add more gloss and require very little drying time. Can be color sanded the next day.

[bondobilly]

If you are going to use acrylic enamel, opt for the hardener additive. It will add more gloss and require very little drying time. Can be color sanded the next day.