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  • Engine: Oil Consumption/Leaking

    Another Newbie Studebaker question for ya. I've been trying to drive my 62 GT as much as possible lately to try and flush out the problems and learn about the the car. I've managed close to 300 miles now and it looks like it is a typical Studebaker and leaks oil. I haven't figured out exactly where it is leaking yet but I assume it is the front and rear main seals as the valve cover gaskets do not appear to be leaking.

    It looks like it is burning or leaking about 1 quart every 800 to 1000 miles. Does that seem excessive? I don't see any blue smoke on start or when driving and it has been hot weather with most of the driving. Also, there is oil pooling on the back of the front cross member which is ahead of the engine so I am not sure how it ends up there? It's not power steering fluid.

    This is a rebuilt 289 with fewer than 5000 miles but it has sat for long periods without running so no doubt the seals are dry. I am using Brad Penn 20W50 oil as this is what the previous owner used. Is there an additive I could try to see if it will swell the seals? Is it a big job to change the front and rear main seals?

    Leaks or not I LOVE THIS CAR!

    I'm out of town for 3 days. If I don't respond to your posts, that's why.

    As always, thanks for your help.

  • #2
    I would be happy as I can be if my '62 GT only used a quart every 800 to 1000 miles. Not out of the ordinary for cars back then. The front seal or pan gasket cork piece at the timing cover may be leaking some on your car, or possibly the fuel pump, as leakage is towards the front. The sealing technology was not what it is today so do not expect the same results. We are all getting a little spoiled too, as today's cars virtually use no oil. I would never use an additive to soften up the seals as the additive does not know when to stop softening the seals. Next thing you know they have turned to mush.
    Frank van Doorn
    Omaha, Ne.
    1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
    1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
    1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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    • #3
      Originally posted by 41 Frank View Post
      I would be happy as I can be if my '62 GT only used a quart every 800 to 1000 miles. Not out of the ordinary for cars back then. The front seal or pan gasket cork piece at the timing cover may be leaking some on your car, or possibly the fuel pump, as leakage is towards the front. The sealing technology was not what it is today so do not expect the same results. We are all getting a little spoiled too, as today's cars virtually use no oil. I would never use an additive to soften up the seals as the additive does not know when to stop softening the seals. Next thing you know they have turned to mush.
      I haven't had a car of this era in over 30 years now so yes I had forgotten how they leaked and used oil. You are right in that we are spoiled by our modern rides. Like I said I am just trying to flush out the issues with this car so that I can make a plan to address them. We've had a hot spell here lately (hot for Toronto area at least 85-90 degrees) and I have had the car out in the heat of day with the ac pumping cold air and the temp never went above 190 so cooling is no issue! The amount of leaking oil didn't surprise me but I wanted to ask to be sure what was normal. Thanks for the response.

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      • #4
        I am betting that you will find with closer examination, that it is a combination of the leaking Fuel Pump you mentioned previously, the Front Pan Arch Gasket and MAYBE the Timing Cover Seal that is making all the mess.
        I would think that the Main Seal (Rear) on a New Engine if properly installed should be pretty leak free .

        On a Hawk, it is not too bad of a job removing the Pan, not as tight as a Lark or Avanti, but not many like laying on their back working upside down to do the deed. Good luck with that!
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
        SDC Member Since 1967

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        • #5
          Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
          I am betting that you will find with closer examination, that it is a combination of the leaking Fuel Pump you mentioned previously, the Front Pan Arch Gasket and MAYBE the Timing Cover Seal that is making all the mess.
          I would think that the Main Seal (Rear) on a New Engine if properly installed should be pretty leak free .

          On a Hawk, it is not too bad of a job removing the Pan, not as tight as a Lark or Avanti, but not many like laying on their back working upside down to do the deed. Good luck with that!
          Yes, this is when I wish I had a hoist! This will be next springs project. I just want to enjoy what summer we have left for this year. Thanks!

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          • #6
            She's just marking her territory! keep an eye on oil pressure, smell the oil occasionally for fuel, and enjoy until you can perform repairs....

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            • #7
              I have the same problem with 289 cruiser,i took to mechanic the whole bottom of the car was coated with oil,it was a quart low,i told him fix it, he said were do I start. you will have to steam clean the bottom of the car so we can see what is leaking well the days of going to the neighbor hood steam cleaner over. so I added the quart of oil and a additive to the motor to try and seal the leak,so far it worked,just hope it doesn;t soften all theseals to much.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by leonard View Post
                I have the same problem with 289 cruiser,i took to mechanic the whole bottom of the car was coated with oil,it was a quart low,i told him fix it, he said were do I start. you will have to steam clean the bottom of the car so we can see what is leaking well the days of going to the neighbor hood steam cleaner over. so I added the quart of oil and a additive to the motor to try and seal the leak,so far it worked,just hope it doesn;t soften all theseals to much.
                The only "seals" that the additive will help, don't exist on a Stude, except the rear main. The front cover/crank seal is felt--unless the rebuilder did an "update" for a neoprene seal. Bet on the fuel pump gasket as they leak easily and many times the threads have been damaged and don't tighten well. Second best place is the pan to timing cover paper gasket and front pan to block gasket, hard to get in right and most aren't. But if you find and fix the leaks, and get more than 1000 miles on a quart, the engine is "tight". Back in 65, my 63 Hawk used about 1 quart every 800 and didn't leak with 20,000 miles on it!! Now I think I have a leak if I need to add between 6000 mile oil changes!! But my new one might rust faster with out the oil protection film.

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                • #9
                  mr.karterfred88,hi thanks for the info. will look into it.len

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                  • #10
                    Also, look at the top of the engine. Oil can leak from the valve covers, center valley, and a lot of people forget to put the gasket in, under the distributor. I suspect bad pan gasket, or cork fillers. IMHO

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