Steering: how/when to remove the king-pin 'tapered locking pins'?

[bsrosell]

hi,
I searched for awhile on the Forum but didn't find any reference to this; I'm tearing apart the front end of my '57 Golden Hawk, and at the king pins (prior to A-arms and coil-spring removal). I'm trying to hammer out those tapered 'lock pins' at the bottom of the king pin castings, but hard to get much swing on a hammer laying under the frame (no hoist). They can be removed as-is, but wondering if they are even harder to get apart OFF the car, without the weight of the spring-pressure pushing down against them? Can I get them out in a bearing press, or might I crack the king-pin casting?
Already heated and sprayed with PB Blaster to soak, and will try again, but they sure didn't budge last night.....
thanks!
Barry

[63 R2 Hawk]

I used an air hammer on mine, out in about 7 seconds. Don't remember which chisel type I used....

[Alan]

The easiest way is with a 20 Ton press. I had some years back, where no matter how hard I beat on them they would not move. After I removed them. Cleaned them up and put them in a press. The press jumped with loud bang, when they broke loose.

[bsrosell]

Thanks, never even thought of air hammer, didn't have small enough attachment, so duct taped a bolt to hollow point rivet tip, with some hassle, got them out!!!

[63 R2 Hawk]

Never underestimate the power of duct tape...! Glad you got 'em. At my age, my Snap-On HD air hammer is one of my best friends when it comes to saving my arms and shoulders...and patience!

[gordr]

Are you referring to the lock pins that hold the lower outer control arm shaft in the lower trunnion? The only time one would need to do that is if you were installing a new shaft and bushings in an old trunnion.

[bsrosell]

Alan, sorry, forgot to thank you; I was very close to needing to do this :-) I have a 20ton press I bought to do my Flightomatic bushings, so COULD have made this work too. Good to know. That press is going to get a work out on the A-arms I think, they look NASTY; all original car, and all original never-been-moved components that are not happy to be disturbed almost 60 years later it seems! Thanks for the tip.

The easiest way is with a 20 Ton press. I had some years back, where no matter how hard I beat on them they would not move. After I removed them. Cleaned them up and put them in a press. The press jumped with loud bang, when they broke loose.

[bsrosell]

HI Gord, yes, exactly correct. GOT THEM OUT last night! :-) And yes, I need all new bushings/bearings in the front end. Taking off work today, determined to get the A-arms and springs out, and king pins apart, and find out just HOW bad they are. Hopefully all the bearings/bushings were sacrificial and the shafts and mating surfaces are all undamaged, ready for new bushings. I will bet money the shocks even are original from the factory, lock-nuts, retainer clips on bolts, .... and all still in place.... And, since my Golden Hawk is an early '57, built in Oct '56, discovered I purchased the wrong shocks from Phil, with just the 'tabs' on the end; discovered mine still had the 56 style with that 'cup' mount underneath, and there is a note in the parts catalog Brent H. pointed out that per serial number, my car DID come with the old style shocks. Wonder how many more asterisks I'll run into on 'overlap' parts like that. :-)
Part of the fun, right? Like exploring.... never know what is around the next bend.

Are you referring to the lock pins that hold the lower outer control arm shaft in the lower trunnion? The only time one would need to do that is if you were installing a new shaft and bushings in an old trunnion.