Electrical: Yellow wire with red tracer. What is it for?

[52-fan]

When I got my 52 from Lenard's son it already had a later Studebaker wiring harness adapted. I had been using a 1960 diagram since that was the year of the 259 engine and it seemed to be correct. The car was running with after market gauges under the dash, but since I have the originals cleaned up I want to reconnect them.
When I traced the wire from the current fuel gauge I found that it ran to a resistor of some type and a fairly heavy white wire with a black tracer ran from there into a terminal which I would take to be where the stock gauge would be. There is a yellow wire with a red tracer going to the same place that I can not find on my diagram. Anybody know what this is for?

[StudeRich]

If it were mine I would start over because of that backyard wiring.
But I can tell you that at least ONE of those three wires would have to go to the Power at the Ignition Switch.

And yes the "Terminal" probably did or should go to the 6 Volt Gauge.

The reason the White with Black tracer wire goes to a Resister, is that I believe he used the 6 Volt Gauge on a Car converted to 12 Volts.

The Yellow with Red tracer would be powering up something else that requires 6 Volts like the Temp. Gauge, Radio or Heater Fan.

I am pretty sure it is all "Custom" and very "CASO", so do not expect it to match any Diagrams.

You know, I believe Leonard did ask for help with that wiring here, and tell us what he was trying to do, searches for his Posts may help solve this.

RIP good buddy!

[52-fan]

The basic harness appears to be new. There are wires added to reach the added gauges and some switches. I have been cleaning up the connections and taped off terminals. One thing that surprised me was how heavy the white wire is. The diagram calls for 18 ga. but it looks too heavy.

[StudeRich]

The basic harness appears to be new. There are wires added to reach the added gauges and some switches. I have been cleaning up the connections and taped off terminals. One thing that surprised me was how heavy the white wire is. The diagram calls for 18 ga. but it looks too heavy.

That is a GOOD thing, 6 Volt circuits carry MORE Amperage and require heavier Wire, too heavy never hurts.
My guess is, that wire was repurposed from being a Alternator or Generator Power Feed wire to the Ammeter.

[52-fan]

I never worry about wires being too heavy for the application, but I thought it might be a clue so someone could identify the yellow wires original purpose. The white wire does look more like an ammeter wire.

[Dwain G.]

This appears to be a replacement wire harness for a 1952 car. The white/black and yellow/red wires are correct for a 1952 car. They originally went to ignition switch terminal 'R'. On the wiring diagram they are identified as wires 'F' and 'Q'. The white/black wires supply power to the gauges and the w/wiper circuit breaker. The yellow/red wire goes to 'IGN' terminal of the overdrive relay.

[52-fan]

Most of the wires look too small for a direct replacement 6 volt 52 harness, but you could be right. I'll check my 52 diagram and see if it looks the same. The newer type wires made me think Lenard had adapted a later Lark harness he had sourced somewhere. So many questions I wish I could ask him.......

[RadioRoy]

I would get rid of those crimp on barrel connectors or at least solder them.

I have seen crimp-ons develop high resistance, especially on six volt circuits with high current. They start out OK, but do not age gracefully. High resistance causes heat. Enough heat causes melt downs and fires.

[Mrs K Corbin]

Is it ticking?

[52-fan]

Is it ticking?

No ticks so far and no smoke has escaped. The other end is not connected to anything.

[52-fan]

Just in case anyone was wondering. I found the answer in my 52 wiring diagram. The yellow wire with a red tracer would be the hot lead to the overdrive switch on the firewall. I guess Lenard really did get a reproduction 52 harness. I spent several hours today tracing the wires he added for the extra gauges and trying to decide how to fix some of the splices.
The car has a one wire alternator, so no voltage regulator and the throttle linkage is after market so no stock kick down switch and that sort of thing. The car also has a fender mounted starter solenoid so no wire to a floor mounted switch. I may have to unwrap a fair amount of harness to clean things up and I really don't want to.