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Randy Bohannon
06-03-2015, 08:41 AM
Have a '63 Hawk R2 which overheats (210-220) at 70-75mph. Does not at low speeds or idle. Engine new, thermostat new, hoses new, cap new, radiator rodded out, fan clutch works. Timing correct, water pump correct for R2. ????
Randy

Pat Dilling
06-03-2015, 09:02 AM
I experienced a similar problem with my '53. I installed a simple air dam directly under the radiator and it made a world of difference. It dropped the cruising temperatures by 10-15 degrees. What this does is create a low pressure area behind the radiator and improves air flow. This is something Avanti owners have been doing with good success also. The one I found is from a Saturn and cost me a dollar at my local pick n pull. Here are a couple pictures, it does not look like much but the difference it made is amazing. I wanted something that was more vertical but this seems to be doing the trick.

44447

44448

PS, Since this picture was taken I have removed the transcooler and am now using the one built into my radiator. That also seemed to help some.

rkapteyn
06-03-2015, 09:11 AM
There have been problems with incorrect water pumps
See http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Cooling/wpc1/wpc1.html

Robert Kapteyn

63 R2 Hawk
06-03-2015, 09:33 AM
It's also common for these temp gauges to read high. I think there's a thread on here somewhere about that, the fix is adding a "calibration" resistor in the gauge sender wire.. Mine reads high when driving at highway speed but I have checked the entire engine with a digital pyrometer and a regular glass thermometer in the coolant and nothing is above 180F. I would check your actual coolant temp first before fixing something that may not be broken. One time I was driving on a hot day and my alternator quit. I drove about 40 miles with no alternator and the gauge went down to 180 and stayed there. As soon as I fixed the alternator, the temp went right back to 200-210, I guess the lowered voltage affected the gauge cal.

Gunslinger
06-03-2015, 10:50 AM
Just because you have new hoses it doesn't mean the lower hose has the spring inside it to keep it from collapsing under vacuum at highway speeds. Your description sounds like that could be the problem.

BobPalma
06-03-2015, 06:52 PM
:o Randy, I see no mention of the core plugs having been knocked out of the sides of the block, the block drains opened, and a good mess having been made rooting out 50 years' worth of accumulated crud from the engine block's cooling system passages. :eek:

It's a messy job, but necessary before you start chasing everything else. ;) :cool: BP

TWChamp
06-04-2015, 03:30 AM
I wouldn't be driving a new engine 70-75 MPH anytime, much less during break-in.

At that speed you'll drive right off the island and into the ocean. LOL

jackb
06-04-2015, 08:56 AM
a rebuilt engine will run hot for a while. Was the block hot tanked and plugs removed ? If not, you'll never cool correctly....

JoeHall
06-04-2015, 09:24 AM
If you are running a 3.73 rear end, the motor is likely turning 3200-3600 RPM at those speeds. You might want to just slow down a bit, for a few thousand miles till the cylinder walls get scrubbed in, or install a 3.31 or 3.07 rear end.

Randy Bohannon
06-04-2015, 10:32 AM
Engine block is new. Lower radiator hose has spring, Rear end is 3.31. Engine has 1500+ miles on it. Could it be a stuck base plate in the distributor? I'll check that out. Randy

JoeHall
06-04-2015, 11:59 AM
That's still 3000-3200 RPMs, which is a bit much.

What kind of pistons did you use for the rebuild? I used hypereutectics and they cooled down pretty quickly.