Can someone please tell me how I can get the "def" and "heat" knobs off the dash controls so I can remove the dash overlay on my 1966 Cruiser? I need to replace the overlay and that means these knobs have to come off. Thanks.
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Removing dash panel (1966)
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Yes, they're the same ones. I'll have to find a way to do it gently so I don't have an accident with them coming off all of a sudden while I'm pulling really hard. I'll use a cloth and pliers, at least. Thanks."Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.
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Originally posted by garrilla View PostScott, I used a tool for removing door clips. It's about the size of a screwdriver and the end is U shaped. It;s necessary to pry on both sides of the lever to keep it level as it comes off."Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.
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I got the tool and got them off. This was almost the easiest thing I've gotten away with. I know my car is keeping track of it's score vs. mine. Right now I think it's about 25 to 3."Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.
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Yes, it is!
One more important question: I have the woodgrain/metal applique off the dash panel and I will need to glue the new one in place. Do you know what glue would work best? I'm not inclined to use epoxy because if it produces heat it might damage the woodgrain. The stuff left behind was obviously rather thick and is yellow/brown. I'm planning on scraping most of it off. I wonder if it was hide glue. Whatever I use, it should be able to withstand temperature up to 150 F (hot car in the sun) and maybe -30 or so.
I'm open to suggestions."Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.
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Originally posted by Scott View PostYes, it is!
One more important question: I have the woodgrain/metal applique off the dash panel and I will need to glue the new one in place. Do you know what glue would work best? I'm not inclined to use epoxy because if it produces heat it might damage the woodgrain. The stuff left behind was obviously rather thick and is yellow/brown. I'm planning on scraping most of it off. I wonder if it was hide glue. Whatever I use, it should be able to withstand temperature up to 150 F (hot car in the sun) and maybe -30 or so.
I'm open to suggestions.Gary
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keeping track
Originally posted by Scott View PostI got the tool and got them off. This was almost the easiest thing I've gotten away with. I know my car is keeping track of it's score vs. mine. Right now I think it's about 25 to 3.
I lost it tonight in the garage, I was swinging a chunk of 4x4 around howling at this car that won't stop leaking.
Had to keep my back to it, or I would have taken the glass out.
Dropped it off the jack, and smoked the tires off to the street and left it there.
I can tell the twin traction is working.
The dog won't even look at me now.
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Originally posted by dickeedee View PostI know mine is!
I lost it tonight in the garage, I was swinging a chunk of 4x4 around howling at this car that won't stop leaking.
Had to keep my back to it, or I would have taken the glass out.
Dropped it off the jack, and smoked the tires off to the street and left it there.
I can tell the twin traction is working.
The dog won't even look at me now."Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.
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Originally posted by Scott View PostYes, it is!
One more important question: I have the woodgrain/metal applique off the dash panel and I will need to glue the new one in place. Do you know what glue would work best? I'm not inclined to use epoxy because if it produces heat it might damage the woodgrain. The stuff left behind was obviously rather thick and is yellow/brown. I'm planning on scraping most of it off. I wonder if it was hide glue. Whatever I use, it should be able to withstand temperature up to 150 F (hot car in the sun) and maybe -30 or so.
I'm open to suggestions.Skip Lackie
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Originally posted by Skip Lackie View Post3M makes a complete line of automotive spray-on adhesives for specific applications. They work very well if you follow the instructions (and not so good if you don't -- as I know very well). The heaviest duty stuff is number 8090, which is for headliners and stuff subject to gravity. You probably don't need that one. They're available at all automotive paint outlets and many FLAPS.Last edited by Scott; 05-07-2015, 08:16 AM."Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.
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