Need recommendations on painting engine

[Studebaker1965]

Hi all,

First, let me thank you all for the advice you have given me regarding my 1965 Commander in the past on here. When the car is done, I'll post pics and share the story of the car.
Anyhow, I am getting close to having the floors done and my next step is pulling the engine and trans out of the car to paint it. It has the original 283 in it. I'd like some advice on colors, the best paint to use, and most importantly how to prep it.

I'd like to use Semi-gloss black on the block, oil pan, transmission housing, etc. I have the yellow paint from SI for the valve covers. I am thinking of using Eastwood's underhood semi gloss for the pulleys and upper/lower radiator tanks (not re-painting the fins).

I'd like to find the best and most permanent paint in semi-gloss black. I was looking at POR 15 products, but the only thing in semi-gloss is their chassis black topcoat, which can withstand up to 300 degrees, so that may be okay for this engine. In reading old posts on this topic, it seams that the exhaust cross-overs on the stude V8s get too hot for normal engine paint.

So, I'd like your advice on how to to it right and what paint to use. I'm planning on using a paint gun to apply to the engine, rather than spray bombs, unless otherwise advised.

Thanks again for all your help in restoring my first car.

Nate

[Mike Van Veghten]

I'm partial to the "cast iron grey". It's very close to "clean" bare cast iron color...! It's got a medium gloss to it, not flat, not real shiny.
I use the VHT brand.

Mike

[Bob Andrews]

Mark Worman, who does high-end restorations, goes with regular Acrylic Eurethane paint used on the exterior. He says it goes on too glossy but after a couple heat cycles it dulls down to what it should be, and holds up well long-term. I'm going to try it on my current Daytona build because I have never been happy with the rattle-can engine enamels.

[Colgate Studebaker]

If you're going to use a gun vs. spray cans (which I prefer), I clean the parts several times with various methods/products to make sure they are lean enough for good adhesion. I actually put on a coat of primer first, and then use a good quality engine paint. I like Eastwoods products and have had good luck using them. The most important part is cleaning and prepping everything you want to paint. Get the heavy gunk off with something like mineral spirits, then wash with a strong detergent type cleaner, twice won't hurt. Then wash with a strong paint remover/cleaner (I like lacquer thinner), and lastly I use Pre-cleano, twice. I hope this helps you accomplish your task, Bill Van Alstyne.

[Bob Andrews]

Also will add that I am a 30 year-plus PPG fan, from back when they were still Ditzler. That's not to say there aren't other good brands, but I recommend it because I've always had good results with it.

[Studebaker1965]

Hi Bob,

I'll have to ask my paint supplier about Acrylic Urethane. Thats a good idea. I wonder what he uses as primer on the block? Also, if I want a semi-gloss finish, I wonder if I should go with gloss. I'll look into this. I was thinking of calling a few restoration shops to see what they use. Thanks!

Nate

[wdills]

I just painted my engine and trans a few months ago. I cleaned everything very carefully with degreasers, brake wash and finally acetone. I primed everything with epoxy primer and then sprayed a couple coats of PPC single stage urethane. The car is not back together yet so I can't comment on how it will hold up, but it looks great right now. I used the SI supplied paint to spray a couple color samples and took them to my local PPG paint shop to have them match the original colors

The exhaust crossover does get very hot, but since I won't be driving mine in the winter, I decided to send my intake to Dave T-bow and have the crossover port poured full of aluminum to block it off so my paint won't burn.

Wayne

[Studebaker1965]

So now I'll have to ask, does anyone know how gloss black the 65 283 engines were? The color slides that were on here a few months ago didn't look too glossy.

[SScopelli]

Sounds like you are wanting the under hood experience to remain factory looking for many shows. Since I was doing an engine for a 61, I had the intake and exhaust painted with the ceramic coating. Your cost may vary, but I had the intake done for $50, and the two exhaust manifolds done for $75. They can coat the exhaust pipes as well. They can do black as well that is a semi gloss. and this stuff is tuff, many heat cycles and they look like as new in the pictures.



Remember, in painting it is all about the prep. Having a clean and greas free block goes along way. The iside was coated with Glyptal and the outside I used PPG's DP40lf. It bonds and realy holds to metal well, and can take the heat. I used the Eastwood Engine Silver paint for the Block and shot with a gun. My 63 Block I'm using the Engine black.

[Bob Andrews]

Hi Bob,

I'll have to ask my paint supplier about Acrylic Urethane. Thats a good idea. I wonder what he uses as primer on the block? Also, if I want a semi-gloss finish, I wonder if I should go with gloss. I'll look into this. I was thinking of calling a few restoration shops to see what they use. Thanks!

Nate

I have always used DP 90 epoxy primer. Once it flashes, you go right ahead with your top coat. This will leave you with a high-gloss finish. But, Mark says that after a few heat cycles, it dulls down to just the right semi gloss finish.

I always recommend PPG products. But more than that, I recommend using products from the same company, from primer surfacer to clear.

[JRoberts]

Remember that early '65's had the yellow valve covers, but later ones had black valve covers. This may or may not be important to you, as it wasn't for me, just wanted to let you know.

[Studebaker1965]

Hi guys. Thanks for the recommendations. I do want to keep it original. I may try the acrylic urethane. Joe, you're right about the valve covers. I have an early 65 with yellow valve covers. I'll let you know how it turns out.