Speedo / Tach / Gauges: 63 Hawk oil gauge removal--help?!?

[davodavo]

Hi. I have a stock 63 Hawk with an oil gauge that doesn't want to release from the line.
See attached picture...my questions:

• There are two nut sizes--one for the large brass shaft and one for the small nut that appears to be screwed into the shaft. Is this indeed two pieces, or one?
• Which one should I be turning? The small nut is in danger of being rounded off...
• Is it clockwise-tight, or clockwise-loosen?
• All the pieces are unwilling to move. Is there anything I can / should do to prep things?

Please advise before I mess things up further!!

Thanks

[TWChamp]

The picture makes it look like the line and nut are soldered together. If that's the case, I can't see them coming apart there.

Also, always use a line wrench, not an open end wrench, so you don't round off the fittings. Also known as a tubing wrench.

[davodavo]

It looks to me that the two brass nuts are in fact separate (there's non indication of soldering), take a look at this photo to see if it's any more obvious.

So...a line/tubing wrench: which size??? And...
* clockwise loosen? clockwise tighen??
* how much force should be involved?? if a "firm tug" is all it should take, should I use WD-40 or something on the threads?

[TWChamp]

Hold the large nut still and turn the small nut counter clockwise as viewed from the rear. Be sure to use the line wrench. I can't tell if it's 3/8" or 7/16", but those two sizes are usually on the same wrench.

[davodavo]

Thanks, I'll let you know what happens...

[Warren Webb]

"Lefty loosey, righty tighty"

[63 R2 Hawk]

No no no, it's "Righty tighty, lefty loosey..."

[Quentin]

Hi, coincidence from down under with my 63 Hawk.... I just had my oil gauge hose split at the base, and subsequently shoot oil all over the roof of my shed upon engine start-up (I must have knocked it when installing new plug leads, and the 50 year old rock hard rubber decided enough was enough).
As the hose gave way at the block-end, removal of the hose from the block necessitated a deep 7/16 socket (tube spanner); at the pig-tail end you will need a 3/8 spanner, and a 7/16 spanner. Anti-clockwise as per normal. Hoses are available from SI for $12.95, with the notation on the SI web-site that they are prone to frequent failure. Q

[JoeHall]

Yep, the big nut is part of the gauge body and not supposed to turn, independent of the gauge. Hold it with a wrench, put another wrench on the smaller nut and turn the small nut. A "line wrench" works best on the small nut, but if you don't have one, a regular open end may do; if not, use channel lock pliers to coax it loose. Be sure you do NOT even crank the motor over while that gauge is disconnected, or oil will spray everywhere inside the car. Hopefully the battery is already disconnected, but if not, now is a good time to do so.

[swvalcon]

If you can't get it loose any other way you can take it loose from the motor feed it though the fire wall and remove the whole line with the gauge. Then remove it where you can get at it .

[davodavo]

Good news: got the nut off without incident. Life is good.
FWIW, the size of the nut is 5/16", so that's the size of the line wrench you need...

[brngarage]

Quentin, if you would like to replace the broken rubber line with a woven steel line, contact Jim Turner (Turner Brakes in the vendor section of the Forum). I've replaced them on both of my Studebakers and on a bunch of friends Studebakers too. No more worries about rotted rubber lines!

[Xcalibur]

YES, there is no reason to rely on ancient rubber in this instance anymore than anywhere else. As noted. These are ALL long past their "use by dates."

[Quentin]

hoses past their use by date.......

Not wrong ! Given the oil gauge hose had come apart with a slight knock, I decided to check the two hoses to and from the top-mounted oil filter (63 Australian assembled Hawk), and sure enough they came apart in my hands!